Nice!!! Any pics of the saw or is it all in bits? You in the USA? I use evaporust which does the same thing, but i just gave it a quick once over in the ultrasonic. It was very clean inside
Stihl 034AV Super Rebuild
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Its torn down sitting in a box tucked under a woodchipper in the shed, parts should start arriving today. Once I get it running i'll grab a picture to put on here, yes im in the USA 
Ha awesome we’re both doing the same job, to the same saw at the same time. Are you doing bearings too? Case split etc?Its torn down sitting in a box tucked under a woodchipper in the shed, parts should start arriving today. Once I get it running i'll grab a picture to put on here, yes im in the USA
Im not going that far unless it needs it, at this point to get it going its getting fuel line/oil pump output line/pulse line/360 sprocket and clutch drum/fleece air filter/bar guides/carb kit/ guide bar and chain
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
How will it possibly cut wood with just that?
guess im going to find out pictures as requested added for the thread op and threw in pics of a saw with solid nose bar and bow a lady gave me today for cutting a dead tree down, the damn thing still has compression after hanging in a barn for a decade!!
pictures as requested added for the thread op and threw in pics of a saw with solid nose bar and bow a lady gave me today for cutting a dead tree down, the damn thing still has compression after hanging in a barn for a decade!!Attachments
![IMG_1363[1].JPG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/566/566076-bdc6b302457c813b73193b4bd0394eba.jpg)
![IMG_1364[1].JPG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/566/566079-5edaa17406c0a858332a829b0c422cbb.jpg)
![IMG_1366[1].JPG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/566/566080-56170828feaba6a977ebb72887731468.jpg)
I thought I got away without mr stupid fiddling with my saw, I was wrong.
For whatever reason, the front bar mount hole in the case needed to be fitted with an insert. Mr stupid decides to drill, tap and fit a sleeve without any thread lock. When he tightened down the bar nut, it screwed the insert down causing the front mount to recess into the case half. This has damaged the cover and will only get worse.
I’m tired of seeing mechanics (both home and professionals) doing shoddy work and the poor customer getting the brunt of it.
Anyway moving on, I took the bar mount bolt off from the adapter sleeve added and inserted it from the oil tank side and the sleeve slipped right out. The threads were poorly cut too..
I cleaned everything up really well and started putting it back correctly.
For anyone not aware, any thread lock only works if the bolt it’s applied to is torqued up fully.
My issue is, because the chap drilled out the case half to fit the larger sleeve when you reinsert it, there is nothing that will allow you to bring the insert to torque - it will just spin through.
Therefore I added a washer between the bolt and the sleeve which would seat the sleeve to the correct depth (flush with the bar mount area) and allow me to apply torque.
I used grease between the two to ease removal of the bar mount bolt once the loctite has cured and red loctite to the adapter sleeve in the case half.
Tomorrow I’ll remove the bar mount bolt, ensure the sleeve is flush with the bar mount area and then blue loctite the bar mount bolt down into the new sleeve.
A picture of how the adapter sleeve has recessed itself
A picture of the bar mount bolt, inside the adapter sleeve (with grease between the two) and about to put loctite on the visible threads) note the washer which gives me the ability to torque the sleeve down without it simply passing through the case.
A picture of it all together and now I’m waiting for the red loctite to cure before I remove the bar mount bolt.
For whatever reason, the front bar mount hole in the case needed to be fitted with an insert. Mr stupid decides to drill, tap and fit a sleeve without any thread lock. When he tightened down the bar nut, it screwed the insert down causing the front mount to recess into the case half. This has damaged the cover and will only get worse.
I’m tired of seeing mechanics (both home and professionals) doing shoddy work and the poor customer getting the brunt of it.
Anyway moving on, I took the bar mount bolt off from the adapter sleeve added and inserted it from the oil tank side and the sleeve slipped right out. The threads were poorly cut too..
I cleaned everything up really well and started putting it back correctly.
For anyone not aware, any thread lock only works if the bolt it’s applied to is torqued up fully.
My issue is, because the chap drilled out the case half to fit the larger sleeve when you reinsert it, there is nothing that will allow you to bring the insert to torque - it will just spin through.
Therefore I added a washer between the bolt and the sleeve which would seat the sleeve to the correct depth (flush with the bar mount area) and allow me to apply torque.
I used grease between the two to ease removal of the bar mount bolt once the loctite has cured and red loctite to the adapter sleeve in the case half.
Tomorrow I’ll remove the bar mount bolt, ensure the sleeve is flush with the bar mount area and then blue loctite the bar mount bolt down into the new sleeve.
A picture of how the adapter sleeve has recessed itself
A picture of the bar mount bolt, inside the adapter sleeve (with grease between the two) and about to put loctite on the visible threads) note the washer which gives me the ability to torque the sleeve down without it simply passing through the case.
A picture of it all together and now I’m waiting for the red loctite to cure before I remove the bar mount bolt.
that might be a prime candidate for a oversized timesert if it acts up
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If you don't like old bodged up repairs- don't buy someone elses old worn out saws.
I think it’ll hold just fine now, i’ll update tomorrow once I’ve removed the mounting bolt from the sleeve.
Would a bar stud from a 056 Magnum (1115 664 2405 ) be an option?.....They're M10 on the case end.
Perhaps a longer stud with a lock nut?... As per post #9 of this link ....... https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-056-bar-studs-what-happens-if-you.269158/
drf255
BAD CAD
Yup, that’s the fix. Stud is a bit longer though. Been there...
thanks guys, with how massive the insert is and thus how much metal has been taken out, not to mention a different thread pitch, it’s too late for that sadly
The red loctite didn’t hold. I was able to torque the bar stud up to a max of 14 ft lbs, but it actually required 17. Started to spin at 15.
upon inspection I can only presume the slightly wallowed out threads in the mag didn’t squeeze the air out enough for the red loctite (263) to fully hold.
Had a chat with some of you on here I weighed up my options. Finally I settled on new cases. I was able to get them from my dealer for 130 aussi dollars. After leaving the shop it clicked that these newer cases would have the flipping cap and so I canceled the order.
Then went back and looked up stairs at their spare parts boxes and found two 034’s. figuring that the front adjuster is the only noticeable difference, it would still work.
Got home and found there were a number of slight variances. I weighed up options back and forth and decided to return the cases.
I finally decided to use JB weld to lock the sleeve in place. This morning I torqued the bar nuts up to 17 ft lbs to see if it would hold, it did twice.
I want to keep the build an 034 super so it’s the way I’m going to go forward.
Just took the carby apart and Welch plug out before sticking it in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Worth noting, Harley and DND were right, the 411 PN is correct for the nozzel. The 1125 ending in 08 has a drilling in the top and is not right.
upon inspection I can only presume the slightly wallowed out threads in the mag didn’t squeeze the air out enough for the red loctite (263) to fully hold.
Had a chat with some of you on here I weighed up my options. Finally I settled on new cases. I was able to get them from my dealer for 130 aussi dollars. After leaving the shop it clicked that these newer cases would have the flipping cap and so I canceled the order.
Then went back and looked up stairs at their spare parts boxes and found two 034’s. figuring that the front adjuster is the only noticeable difference, it would still work.
Got home and found there were a number of slight variances. I weighed up options back and forth and decided to return the cases.
I finally decided to use JB weld to lock the sleeve in place. This morning I torqued the bar nuts up to 17 ft lbs to see if it would hold, it did twice.
I want to keep the build an 034 super so it’s the way I’m going to go forward.
Just took the carby apart and Welch plug out before sticking it in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Worth noting, Harley and DND were right, the 411 PN is correct for the nozzel. The 1125 ending in 08 has a drilling in the top and is not right.
Carb is getting a new nozzel check valve, a welch plug, and all the other standard parts
drf255
BAD CAD
Great news. As for the carb, what are you referring to with the nozzle? Are you saying that the 036 nozzle has a H needle bypass hole on the base (area that sits in the metering bowl)?
Hey mate, sorry, I mixed two posts into 1.
When I say nozzel, I’m referring to the brass plug that acts as a high speed nozzel check valve to stop air returning into the metering chamber during idle.
Mine was leaking during testing and I was struggling to find the replacement!
drf255
BAD CAD
OIC
Some saws, like the echo 620, have a bypass hole drilled in the base of the nozzle. It stops full adjustment. Many other carb models do the same, it’s just hidden. All of the H flow doesn’t go through the H adjustment circuit in many saws, it just adjusts a certain % of it.
Some saws, like the echo 620, have a bypass hole drilled in the base of the nozzle. It stops full adjustment. Many other carb models do the same, it’s just hidden. All of the H flow doesn’t go through the H adjustment circuit in many saws, it just adjusts a certain % of it.
Carb is done!
Trying to hold the tiny steel parts was a PITA as the tweezers were magnetised. A quick zap on the demagnetiser sorted that out.
Welch plug fitted along with the nozzel / check valve.
Before seating the nozzle - the blocks of wood helped
Fully seated nozzle
The metering lever height was far too low from factory, so tweaked it, tested that the gauge only just brushed the lever and started to bleed
It’s now together.
Trying to hold the tiny steel parts was a PITA as the tweezers were magnetised. A quick zap on the demagnetiser sorted that out.
Welch plug fitted along with the nozzel / check valve.
Before seating the nozzle - the blocks of wood helped
Fully seated nozzle
The metering lever height was far too low from factory, so tweaked it, tested that the gauge only just brushed the lever and started to bleed
It’s now together.
