Stihl 036

[Burchie70]

A guy I know gave me a couple saws. One is a 036 in good shape but said the clutch was bad. I pulled it apart and the cutch drum was sloppy and actually melted the plastic cover. When I pulled the clutch it looks like something melted or ripped the oil hose and I found a spring floating around inside. Is the spring from the oil seal ? And if the clutch looks ok and it was slipping from the oil leaking inside think it’s ok to reuses it ? Thanks for any help

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The spring used to be inside the oil delivery tube that has been cut through by the wobbling clutch drum.
Did you find any remains of the needle bearing between clutch drum and crank?
That could be one of your issues- no needle bearing. Then you look to have very weak or stretched clutch springs and the drive arm is off your worm gear that drives the oil pump.

 

[Burchie70]

Thanks for getting back to me Bob, the needle bearing was still there and appears to be ok. After reading your comment I think it was the drive arm that possibly tore through the oil hose while it was spinning around. The drive arm doesn’t want to go back on the worm gear, looks like it melted the groove that holds it on. Where does the other end of the drive arm go ? How hard is it to change the oil hose? I’m looking for a service manual now. Never owned a 036 and not sure what to replace. Here’s a couple more pics, thanks again

 

[Mad Professor]

I did a 036 rebuild a while back with pictures. Covers the oil pump hose install and the available clutch drum/bearing upgrade.

Start with post #29 where I put the pictures back in.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/036-project.96696/page-2

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Just buy a new worm gear and it will have the drive arm attached- the hook end must fit in the cutout on the edge of the lip of the clutch drum when you reinstall it- so that when the clutch engages the drum- it drives the pump.
Lets just say it is "interesting" to replace the oil line- especially if it is your first time! Do a search on here- some very good advice regarding the subject on here already (might have to use a google search to find it, it may also be for other models with a similar system- not 036 specifically).
Personally I might be inclined to shout the saw a new worm drive, oil line, needle bearing and clutch kit.

 

[J D]

I'd check the oil pump over too... looks like the clutch drum has left some good grooves in it

 

[ZeroJunk]

Yeah, oil pump could be locked up.

 

[Burchie70]

Thanks guys, after looking at Mad Professors post and pictures I noticed that the clutch drum wore away a piece on the case that has a notch in it. I’m wondering if it’s ok to still use the case because I’m not sure what that notch is for. I’ll post a picture of mine and one of Mad Professors and see what you fellas think. Should I buy the parts at a dealer or see if someone on here has some ? Thanks again

 

[J D]

That notch is to help center the brake band so the clutch drum doesn’t rub on it constantly. You should be able to make a "packer" out of JB Weld or something similar that will work fine

 

[Mad Professor]

You might want to take the pump apart and inspect the piston and the bore. Put in new o-rings.

The JB weld should be OK to fix the case if the brake band is effected

Here is a service manual IPL and some tech bulletins

 

[ZeroJunk]

We should do a video on installing the oil line and delete all profanity.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

We should do a video on installing the oil line and delete all profanity.

Google video search of fitting stihl 036 oil pump and tube- comes back with about 10 pages of hits- should be something worth watching in there.

But feel free to chuck one up on the bench and video the way you do it- admin might make it a stickie for future reference.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Google video search of fitting stihl 036 oil pump and tube- comes back with about 10 pages of hits- should be something worth watching in there.

But feel free to chuck one up on the bench and video the way you do it- admin might make it a stickie for future reference.

If I never do another it will be too soon. With my luck one will come in tomorrow.

I always screwed up getting it too hot and it kinking back trying to get the line on the nipple.

 

[J D]

We should do a video on installing the oil line and delete all profanity.

2 hours of video would turn into a 20 second slideshow

 

[Burchie70]

Well I cleaned the saw up and after looking at it the notch in the case for the break band is still there so I won’t need to JB weld it. I ordered a OEM oil hose and worm gear. Looks like all I need for parts is the needle bearing, clutch dust cover, clutch springs and oil pump. I pushed the oil hose and brass sleeve out and it was fairly easy. I’m sure putting the new one back in won’t be as easy. I’m going to message Northeast saws on the forum to see if he has any parts available thanks guys

 

[SteveSr]

Thanks guys, after looking at Mad Professors post and pictures I noticed that the clutch drum wore away a piece on the case that has a notch in it. I’m wondering if it’s ok to still use the case because I’m not sure what that notch is for. I’ll post a picture of mine and one of Mad Professors and see what you fellas think. Should I buy the parts at a dealer or see if someone on here has some ? Thanks again

I see a new oil pump in your future. The damage looks like it is through the piston bore. Take a close look below the red circled area.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Clean up the worn area on the pump and fill it with JB or Devcon, sand /reshape it to clear the clutch or oil drive. I have done so on several oil pumps that were gouged much worse, they are still in service. The aluminum must be cleaned up completely oil free for the filler to bond completely.

 

[Burchie70]

I found a good used one for now but I’ll take the old one and use jb weld on it for a spare. Thanks guys

 

[Burchie70]

Well I got it all back together with a new/used clutch, oil pump, clutch cover, needle bearing and oil hose. The oil hose actually went easy. Put gas and oil in it and it fired right up and the oil pump is working. I had to shut it off because it’s leaking gas from where the fuel line goes into the tank. Just need to order a new one. Thanks guys

 

[Burchie70]

I changed the fuel line and started the saw and it ran ok for a few minutes but it quit. I never put anew carb kit in but pulled the carb apart and cleaned it and all gaskets looked good. I looked at the IPL and I don’t see my carb listed. It’s a Zama C3A S4U 24J, is the rebuild kit a RB-31 ?