Stihl 038a?

[ballisticdoughnut]

038’s are known to be a little hard starting, that’s been my experience anyway. I have a couple. When it comes to carbs you should always do a complete rebuild, otherwise your gonna be going back into it more often than not. Have you replaced the fuel line? Filter? Pulse hose? What’s the history on the saw?

 

[beeser]

038’s are known to be a little hard starting, that’s been my experience anyway. I have a couple. When it comes to carbs you should always do a complete rebuild, otherwise your gonna be going back into it more often than not. Have you replaced the fuel line? Filter? Pulse hose? What’s the history on the saw?

I purchased the saw attached to a RipSaw but don't know much about its history. It's definitely been used by outward appearance. The fuel filter was not replaced. After removing the air filter and manually choking the carb (covering the intake) I was able to suck gas into the engine. It finally ran but stalled out after giving it more throttle. No doubt there is a carb problem and a full rebuild is necessary. Any suggestion on how to go about this? Good source for a rebuild kit?

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

I purchased the saw attached to a RipSaw but don't know much about its history. It's definitely been used by outward appearance. The fuel filter was not replaced. After removing the air filter and manually choking the carb (covering the intake) I was able to suck gas into the engine. It finally ran but stalled out after giving it more throttle. No doubt there is a carb problem and a full rebuild is necessary. Any suggestion on how to go about this? Good source for a rebuild kit?

PM me. I’ll send you a kit.

 

[Tulameendude]

Like I said in #11

 

[beeser]

PM me. I’ll send you a kit.

Thanks ballisticdoughnut. PM sent

 

[FabianRW]

Simply undo the fuel cap and put it back again, if you hear a rush of air and then the saw starts okay then you know it's vapour lock.
It's an easy solution to do that every time but otherwise it'll be something off with the carb/tuning/air filter most likely.
You also have that little pipe with a thread in the end going into the fuel tank, the breather, that should allow the tank to displace the fuel with air, if it's blocked it may not be doing that, may need cleaning out.

 

[beeser]

I'm stumped! A new carb rebuild kit was installed, air and fuel filters replace with new fuel lines and a host of other new parts and I still can't get this 038A to run correctly. Actually, before the carb rebuild kit was installed I could at least get it started and to idle but it would stall after giving it some throttle. Now I can't even get it started unless some gas was put directly into the cylinder. Any suggestions? BTW, what's the proper starting procedure for this saw?

 

[FabianRW]

I'm stumped! A new carb rebuild kit was installed, air and fuel filters replace with new fuel lines and a host of other new parts and I still can't get this 038A to run correctly. Actually, before the carb rebuild kit was installed I could at least get it started and to idle but it would stall after giving it some throttle. Now I can't even get it started unless some gas was put directly into the cylinder. Any suggestions? BTW, what's the proper starting procedure for this saw?

Did you clean the carb thoroughly throughout? All the little inlets and jets etc?

It may just need a rebuild, there will be carbon deposits etc.

You checked, cleaned and adjusted/replaced the spark plug I take it? That's always the first thing to check with any engine.
Take the spark plug out and put your finger/thumb over, not in, the hole. Turn it over and see if it has compression that way.
If it has compression, spark and fuel/air then a two stroke will at least try to run a bit so long as it's actually turning over okay.

 

[beeser]

Took the carb apart again and discovered the pump diaphragm and adjoining gasket orientation were switched. It starts up and runs now. Still needs some adjusting as it quits while idling. Finally seeing some progress to eventually use on the RipSaw.

 

[FabianRW]

Took the carb apart again and discovered the pump diaphragm and adjoining gasket orientation were switched. It starts up and runs now. Still needs some adjusting as it quits while idling. Finally seeing some progress to eventually use on the RipSaw.

I mill with my 038 magnum, using a 24" lopro bar and chain. It will just about do hardwoods to full cutting depth capacity of around 13" and would struggle to do anything more.

I recommend either using my setup but with a full skip milling chain. Or sticking a 20" lopro bar on and only cutting up to 10" max otherwise I think you'll find the saw will struggle.

Glad you managed to find the problem and wish you luck

 

[Mad Professor]

I mill with my 038 magnum, using a 24" lopro bar and chain. It will just about do hardwoods to full cutting depth capacity of around 13" and would struggle to do anything more.

I recommend either using my setup but with a full skip milling chain. Or sticking a 20" lopro bar on and only cutting up to 10" max otherwise I think you'll find the saw will struggle.

Glad you managed to find the problem and wish you luck

The ripsaw is a bandsaw setup and needs less power to make the cuts, not like a chainsaw chain.

I use 3/8 lopro/picco on my 066 with a Logosol mill. It pulls a 25" bar full cut but you need to feed it fast/slow as the saw will take. The damm Stihl 63PMX chain has gotten expensive. What lopro/picco chain are you running? Curious as to price in UK too?

 

[FabianRW]

The ripsaw is a bandsaw setup and needs less power to make the cuts, not like a chainsaw chain.

I use 3/8 lopro/picco on my 066 with a Logosol mill. It pulls a 25" bar full cut but you need to feed it fast/slow as the saw will take. The damm Stihl 63PMX chain has gotten expensive. What lopro/picco chain are you running? Curious as to price in UK too?

Sounds good, I wanted to make something similar but then I saw a 16hp vanguard and decided to make a big bandsaw mill.

The chain I use is some lopro panther milling one, it is weirdly cheaper and is lighter. I used to use the Stihl but I get on better with the panther, probably because of the hard timbers I'm cutting.
I've found that high chain tension really helps in milling, obviously accuracy too but the chain tension noone seems to mention. Any nick though and that part needs replacing and matching to the rest, as high tension and milling will obviously break a damaged chain.
I use an 076 for larger milling, that runs the panther milling chain well too and not much in it between the normal and full skip version.
chainsawbars.co.uk is where I get stuff, the prices of Stihl chain seem to have gone up, I go for the deals or the panther chain, in the UK they're expensive but they're good in hardwoods and pay themselves back.

I will buy large reels to save money and make my own chains up eventually.

 

[Mad Professor]

Sounds good, I wanted to make something similar but then I saw a 16hp vanguard and decided to make a big bandsaw mill.

The chain I use is some lopro panther milling one, it is weirdly cheaper and is lighter. I used to use the Stihl but I get on better with the panther, probably because of the hard timbers I'm cutting.
I've found that high chain tension really helps in milling, obviously accuracy too but the chain tension noone seems to mention. Any nick though and that part needs replacing and matching to the rest, as high tension and milling will obviously break a damaged chain.
I use an 076 for larger milling, that runs the panther milling chain well too and not much in it between the normal and full skip version.
chainsawbars.co.uk is where I get stuff, the prices of Stihl chain seem to have gone up, I go for the deals or the panther chain, in the UK they're expensive but they're good in hardwoods and pay themselves back.

I will buy large reels to save money and make my own chains up eventually.

How does the panther 3/8 lopro compare with the Stihl 63PMX?

I really have not seen a chain that is better than Stihl for crosscut or ripping, I use RS or Rm for crosscuts. Less stretch, harder cutters, oils better.

I checked chainsawbars.co.uk, they are still pricey for bars/chains.

We had a place that shutdown here USA, Left Coast Supplies that had spectacular deals on the GB bars and 63PMX chains.

The Stihl 63PMX chain was $0.25/drive link, in premade loops. I should have brought a few reels of PMX and more bars.

 

[FabianRW]

How does the panther 3/8 lopro compare with the Stihl 63PMX?

I really have not seen a chain that is better than Stihl for crosscut or ripping, I use RS or Rm for crosscuts. Less stretch, harder cutters, oils better.

I checked chainsawbars.co.uk, they are still pricey for bars/chains.

We had a place that shutdown here USA, Left Coast Supplies that had spectacular deals on the GB bars and 63PMX chains.

The Stihl 63PMX chain was $0.25/drive link, in premade loops. I should have brought a few reels of PMX and more bars.

View attachment 1014958

Yeah chains and everything are cheaper in the US, we have a weird economy in the UK based on tax and tax avoidance unfortunately. Recently over the last few years the price of everything went up.
The panther are better in my experience than the Stihl pmx, I got on well with the Stihl but the panther simply cuts better and faster, probably the tooth shape as it's a bit different but also feels lighter in weight.

You can put less tension on the panther but get a smoother faster cut, that's pretty much what it comes down to rather than the usual factors that people talk about in milling, surprisingly less stretch on the panther, so weird and I've already saved money by buying the panther chain.

What I like is to just split logs when I can, saves a lot of effort. I used to do that before I had a mill then just resaw.