Stihl 039 Rebuild

[Brewz]

Yeah the issue is that the Stihl drum sprockets for these saws with the smaller spur size wont accept any of the non stihl sprockets I have. They have a different tooth so you have to buy Still sprockets.
The large size spurs are interchangeable

Does Apple own Stihl?

I think I will take it down to the stihl shop once I have done the oil seals again and see if they will let me sit a Stihl sprocket on there to make sure it lines up properly.
Or for half the cost, but 7 pin star sprocket drums in 325 and 3/8.

I like to post up pics so others may find the thread and get something from it down the track.
Thanks SOOOOOO much for the help thus far folks!

 

[huskihl]

Yeah the issue is that the Stihl drum sprockets for these saws with the smaller spur size wont accept any of the non stihl sprockets I have. They have a different tooth so you have to buy Still sprockets.
The large size spurs are interchangeable

Does Apple own Stihl?

I think I will take it down to the stihl shop once I have done the oil seals again and see if they will let me sit a Stihl sprocket on there to make sure it lines up properly.
Or for half the cost, but 7 pin star sprocket drums in 325 and 3/8.

I like to post up pics so others may find the thread and get something from it down the track.
Thanks SOOOOOO much for the help thus far folks!

Yep. There is always mass confusion about this. Stihl's small sprocket we call mini. Husky's small is a normal small. Large is called both large and standard. Mini (or stihl small) drums are only available from stihl. You can get an aftermarket drum for a stihl mini, but it will actually be the medium sized one, so you'd have to also have the medium rim.




And I just made it more confusing

Yep. Stihl and apple.....like peas and carrots

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Stihl may be owned by Apple but you can buy enough parts to make a complete Stihl saw from China if you wish.

 

[Brewz]

Stihl may be owned by Apple but you can buy enough parts to make a complete Stihl saw from China if you wish.

It would be called a "Stihing"

 

[Brewz]

Also I wouldn't be so quick to sell of an 039 for an 036... Get your 039 right and cut with that sob.
In the meantime I'm still on the prowl for an 036 builder.. To replace my... Ms390 lol

In all seriousness, what are peoples opinions of the 036 vs the 039?
I'm liking the thought of the pro saw that has its motor integrated into the metal chassis, not bolted to its plastic one.

 

[Terry Syd]

You are using a 9 pin sprocket on an 1127 series saw? Either you run a very small skip tooth bar or your wood is very soft... I mean the wood you are cutting with a chainsaw. Or I completely mistook what saw the 9 pin went on. Ha

You must have missed where I mentioned I was running a NK (Narrow Kerf) bar. The saw has been extensively modded and produces good broad range power for a 64cc saw. Multiply that by 28.5% 0verdrive with the 9-pin and it cuts rather fast. It takes about a 5-6" limb of Ozzie hardwood to slow it down to where I can get a reading on the tach (see picture I posted) and the reading is around 10,500 with the bar loaded. That equates to 13,500 rpm with a 7-pin. Bucking with the 20" Husky bar buried pulls it down, but then I'm also loading it on the spikes. At 7,000 rpm times 1.285 that is equivalent to 9,000 rpm with a 7-pin.

A NK bar cuts a bit faster, some say a 40cc saw will cut like a 50cc saw with NK. However, that is a 25% increase in cutting speed. I feel that it cuts around 15-20% faster - say just 15%. If you take a strong running 64cc engine and multiply it by 1.15 it makes it perform like a 73.6cc engine.

I only cut Ozzie hardwood and I use the 'soft wood' setting on the raker plate (5.6 degrees of cutting angle) with full comp semi chisel chain.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

In all seriousness, what are peoples opinions of the 036 vs the 039?
I'm liking the thought of the pro saw that has its motor integrated into the metal chassis, not bolted to its plastic one.

I think a 361, which I guess is a successor to the 036, is better as far as a lot of cutting goes but if you're cutting firewood and occasionally clearing I don't think I'd opt for the extra spending. The 390 is not a bad saw and you won't notice whether it's a clamshell or not while you're using it. The 390 might be a bit slower than a 036 but not much.

 

[Brewz]

Cutting speed isn't my main concern with this saw. My 066 magnum cuts fast and it is what I use for larger stuff. THAT saw is not going anywhere ever!

I am a tinkerer and am thinking the pro saw will be a better candidate to play with down the track as well as being a tougher more reliable tool going forward.

This whole misalignment thing has put me off the clamshell design.

I can get a nice 036 pro with brand new Stihl bar and chain and new OEM piston, rings and seals plus a Stihl hard case for $500.
My 039 cost me more than that. Prices are higher in Aus compared to what I see the folks on the other half of the world mentioning

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If it means anything I've rebuilt about 20 or so clamshell designed Stihls in the last two years and alignment was never a problem. The only problem I had was with a defective clutch drum which I bought on ebay that was made in China, it wasn't the fault of the saw. I've got three more that I'm gonna rebuild when the weather is a little warmer. I've got a few saws around here so getting them put together is not a big priority. Either saw you mentioned will work just fine however.

 

[huskihl]

If it means anything I've rebuilt about 20 or so clamshell designed Stihls in the last two years and alignment was never a problem. The only problem I had was with a defective clutch drum which I bought on ebay that was made in China, it wasn't the fault of the saw. I've got three more that I'm gonna rebuild when the weather is a little warmer. I've got a few saws around here so getting them put together is not a big priority. Either saw you mentioned will work just fine however.

Seems like I did read awhile back about possible warping of the plastic case at the bar stud location, sending the bar off angle. Don't know if it was perceived or actual though.

I have a few 039's and an 034s (same as 036). Doesn't matter to me which one I use. I don't think I could tell the difference, other than the 039 cover being an inch or so wider. 039 is a fine firewood saw. Keep the air filter clean and don't run it with the brake on and it'll last a lifetime

 

[Brewz]

This arvo I fitted the 3/8 star sprocket that the saw came with and the chain grooves in it line up with the bar, so it was like this when I got it. On further measurement a Stihl sprocket that's a touch lower still won't fix it as its just over too far. It's star sprockets only.

Thinking back to when I got it, the original Stihl chain sprocket cover that is plastic was warped and had a burn mark on it which is why I replaced it. I recon the saw has been left near a fire and the heat that warped the cover also warped the chassis.

That wouldn't happen with a alloy framed pro saw.

The 039 is an awesome fire wood saw........ Agreed, I love the thing, but I think I have made up my mind.

i think the 036 will sit nicely next to my 066 magnum!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Alloy saws have their problems too. You won't have any chainsaw that is used a lot that doesn't require maintenance. You've run into a problem with the 390 that isn't the norm.

 

[Brewz]

Yeah fair point.
I made an offer on the 036 and old mate has not got back to me so I will take that as a NO.

The replacement oil seals turned up today while I was at work, so when I got home I stripped the saw to fit them.
Note to self and others........ dont try and tap these seals in. It doesn't end well
As you can see below, oil was leaking from the seal around the casing so there is a good chance air was too. I'm glad I stripped it back down.
Also, when I removed the bolts, the jug just kind of fell of, and on inspection the sealant had not stuck to one side. I'm guessing oil was the culprit.



Cleaned out all the oil and old sealant to avoid the problem again, de-greased and dried the surfaces to be sealed with the Motoseal 1 and popped the piston back into the jug.
Top of the piston looked great after 3 tanks of fuel..... I might start an oil thread to discuss



Applied sealant evenly to all the case and seal bearing surfaces by finger and with spacers made for the bolts (as mentioned in this thread) bolted it all back together and will leave it till tomorrow to set before I touch it again.



Below is the oil seal I removed. A great demonstration of how not to do it!



Once again........ thanks Sooooooo much for all the help and advice folks.
Cant wait to get it back together see if the re-re-build improves the compression with a better seal

Edit:
Forgot to add......... I rang my local Stihl dealer to ask for a price on a replacement 039 chassis.
$450
I said: JHC, Its a lump of injection molded plastic.
If Stihl were better with their spare part prices they would get a lot more business I recon

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Yeah fair point.
I made an offer on the 036 and old mate has not got back to me so I will take that as a NO.

The replacement oil seals turned up today while I was at work, so when I got home I stripped the saw to fit them.
Note to self and others........ dont try and tap these seals in. It doesn't end well
As you can see below, oil was leaking from the seal around the casing so there is a good chance air was too. I'm glad I stripped it back down.
Also, when I removed the bolts, the jug just kind of fell of, and on inspection the sealant had not stuck to one side. I'm guessing oil was the culprit.

View attachment 466681

Cleaned out all the oil and old sealant to avoid the problem again, de-greased and dried the surfaces to be sealed with the Motoseal 1 and popped the piston back into the jug.
Top of the piston looked great after 3 tanks of fuel..... I might start an oil thread to discuss

View attachment 466682

Applied sealant evenly to all the case and seal bearing surfaces by finger and with spacers made for the bolts (as mentioned in this thread) bolted it all back together and will leave it till tomorrow to set before I touch it again.

View attachment 466683

Below is the oil seal I removed. A great demonstration of how not to do it!

View attachment 466684

Once again........ thanks Sooooooo much for all the help and advice folks.
Cant wait to get it back together see if the re-re-build improves the compression with a better seal

Edit:
Forgot to add......... I rang my local Stihl dealer to ask for a price on a replacement 039 chassis.
$450
I said: JHC, Its a lump of injection molded plastic.
If Stihl were better with their spare part prices they would get a lot more business I recon

They sell a replacement case for the 039 on ebay but I have no idea how good they are. They aren't OEM but a Chinese knockoff. Your case does indeed have marks where the flywheel has rubbed against it or something got between the flywheel and the cradle, I've seen a couple of saws like that and wasn't sure what caused it.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

Yeah fair point.
I made an offer on the 036 and old mate has not got back to me so I will take that as a NO.

The replacement oil seals turned up today while I was at work, so when I got home I stripped the saw to fit them.
Note to self and others........ dont try and tap these seals in. It doesn't end well
As you can see below, oil was leaking from the seal around the casing so there is a good chance air was too. I'm glad I stripped it back down.
Also, when I removed the bolts, the jug just kind of fell of, and on inspection the sealant had not stuck to one side. I'm guessing oil was the culprit.

View attachment 466681

Cleaned out all the oil and old sealant to avoid the problem again, de-greased and dried the surfaces to be sealed with the Motoseal 1 and popped the piston back into the jug.
Top of the piston looked great after 3 tanks of fuel..... I might start an oil thread to discuss

View attachment 466682

Applied sealant evenly to all the case and seal bearing surfaces by finger and with spacers made for the bolts (as mentioned in this thread) bolted it all back together and will leave it till tomorrow to set before I touch it again.

View attachment 466683

Below is the oil seal I removed. A great demonstration of how not to do it!

View attachment 466684

Once again........ thanks Sooooooo much for all the help and advice folks.
Cant wait to get it back together see if the re-re-build improves the compression with a better seal

Edit:
Forgot to add......... I rang my local Stihl dealer to ask for a price on a replacement 039 chassis.
$450
I said: JHC, Its a lump of injection molded plastic.
If Stihl were better with their spare part prices they would get a lot more business I recon

The answer for your search is Ebay for the plastic case.

 

[Terry Syd]

Your case does indeed have marks where the flywheel has rubbed against it or something got between the flywheel and the cradle

Worn main bearings will allow the crank to move around. The rubbing may now have been cured by replacing the main bearings.

 

[Brewz]

Well it's tighter than a fishes bum now!
Back together again and it runs great.

This morning old mate selling the 036 sent me a green light and bank details to arrange the sale. I was stoaked!
5 minutes later he contacts me saying not to bother as he went to get it ready to post and found his garage had been broken into. The saw among other things was gone.

So in a bad mood, I went and got a star sprocket for the 039 and will use it like that. It gets the job done and that's what counts.

 

[Terry Syd]

Since you're going to keep it, you might want to do a couple of mods to bump up the power. Those engines have very loose ignition timing specs (because of manufacturing variations), the factory timing is listed between 23.5 and 28.5 degrees BTDC. I've seen guys on this forum advance the ignition on some of those saws 8 degrees!

Another mod is a cheap Chinese 460 carb (about $20). Just drill out the low speed jet and tune it - it bolts right on. Its a good mod for more low end power and resistance to bogging (bigger venturi also). Presently you are running an EPA approved carb for an 029-039.

 

[Brewz]

Since you're going to keep it, you might want to do a couple of mods to bump up the power. Those engines have very loose ignition timing specs (because of manufacturing variations), the factory timing is listed between 23.5 and 28.5 degrees BTDC. I've seen guys on this forum advance the ignition on some of those saws 8 degrees!

Another mod is a cheap Chinese 460 carb (about $20). Just drill out the low speed jet and tune it - it bolts right on. Its a good mod for more low end power and resistance to bogging (bigger venturi also). Presently you are running an EPA approved carb for an 029-039.

That's my next learning step....... timing and porting! I have no Idea how it works at this stage but its just a bit of reading away.

I also like the sound of the bigger carb...... got a link to the item your talking about?

After I got it back together I got thinking about that muffler and a previous comment about the front cover being a restriction.
I did some thinking and figured a 2nd port on the side would not be venting gas that's as hot after it has passed through the baffle etc and the front baffle bypass will be doing most of the work. It will help keep static pressure in the muffler body down which will encourage more exhaust gas out of the motor...... which is the name of the game right?

I took the cover from the original muffler and shortened it up.
Drilled the side of the muffler
Made a spark screen that would clamp on under the new cover.
Screwed it on and fired her up.

Instantly noticeable increase in acceleration and throttle response....... sounds great too!

At WOT the side port is venting about 3o to 40% of the gas that comes out the front by feel, and the front gas volume hasn't dropped noticeably. A good increase I would say.
I also replaced the OEM spark screen with some 45% open area mesh to help air flow.

 

[Terry Syd]

There's a bunch of them on Ebay for around A$23, but here is one for A$21 - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Carburet...004712?hash=item3cfab1f668:g:YU4AAOSwv0tVZZMX

They're probably the same carb, just different sellers.