Stihl 041 clutch

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I have a Stihl 041 with the chain break activated clutch.The shoes are worn and I have spares I am hoping some one can explain to me the proper procedure to loosen it off.
Kash
Kash, from what you say it seems that you are asking how to remove the clutch from the crankshaft? You will need to remove the spark plug and use a piston block tool or a small piece of rope to stop the rotation of the crankshaft. Pull on the starter handle until the crankshaft stops turning.
The clutch will loosen in the clockwise direction. Usually, a good brass punch on one of the clutch lugs and a hammer striking in the clockwise direction will loosen the clutch. OT
There is an earlier post on the subject:
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/stihl-041-av-clutch-removal-problem.163933/
 
So Kash I also have an 041 and it started cutting poorly and I found out it spit out a shoe at some point and was down to TWO. My understanding was stihl used some kind of adhesive on these. must be pretty good glue? anyway i bought a used clutch online since one of my shoes was missing. Later on this site i read the later all steel style clutches for the 041 are interchangeable, it was in a long winded thread about making these clutch shoes out of automotive brake drum shoes, a real windy thread with much disagreement.
 


Not knocking the methodology at all- heck I use the exact same method myself- BUT what if the saw has likely never had the clutch off, is a decade or two older than the one in your video and is not making compression because Bubba straight gassed it?
 
Not knocking the methodology at all- heck I use the exact same method myself- BUT what if the saw has likely never had the clutch off, is a decade or two older than the one in your video and is not making compression because Bubba straight gassed it?
I break out the air impact, and it doesn't require any compression as well, just the impact action.
 
I have a socket that is ground flat so it grips the shallow hex good, and use a tool with impact action, no piston blocking!View attachment 965973
That will work.
But why do you think they made the piston block tool?
How do you remove this one? OEM NOS old style.
1645230652538.png1645230652538.png
I may not have many posts here but I have been repairing chainsaws for over 40 years. I have removed and repaired or replaced hundreds of clutchs on just about any brand that's out there. I have never damaged a piston on any one of them by using the method suggested.
My suggestion of using the STIHL PISTON STOP TOOL " 0000-893-5903 to the OP will also work and is the preferred method of any shop I deal with.
Let us know how it works out Kash, however you decide to do it.
OT
 
I have a 031 and the 041 both these saws have the clutch with the chain brake engagement.I have no idea on how to post pictures by the time I sent my film away to be developed it would be a few months time.
The clutch has a spring about 2 inches long on the outside surface of the clutch the saw starts in neutral when you touch the chain break it engages the spring which slides a plate which engages the clutch it works good as you can start and warm up the saw with out the chain turning.These clutches do not have a nut so I guess the hammer and punch method will be in order.I would imagine Stihl sold or who ever sold a special tool.
Thanks for all the help I will keep every one of the results.
Kash
 
That will work.
But why do you think they made the piston block tool?
How do you remove this one? OEM NOS old style.
View attachment 966141View attachment 966141
I may not have many posts here but I have been repairing chainsaws for over 40 years. I have removed and repaired or replaced hundreds of clutchs on just about any brand that's out there. I have never damaged a piston on any one of them by using the method suggested.
My suggestion of using the STIHL PISTON STOP TOOL " 0000-893-5903 to the OP will also work and is the preferred method of any shop I deal with.
Let us know how it works out Kash, however you decide to do it.
OT
A piston stop tool with a punch is asking for damage. I use a piston stop on blowers and their fan wheels, with a long socket style ratchet.
Hundreds of posts here about removing the clutches and flywheels, and hundreds of posts on how they damaged their saws following advice here.
 
A piston stop tool with a punch is asking for damage. I use a piston stop on blowers and their fan wheels, with a long socket style ratchet.
Hundreds of posts here about removing the clutches and flywheels, and hundreds of posts on how they damaged their saws following advice here.
I suspect I sped up the bearing deteriorization (SELF DESTRUCT MODE) Using a plastic stop on a 056 Magnum. It popped over top dead center and then the bearings were rumbly. when I split the case the plastic cages on both crank bearing were compromised. I plinked out one segment of the flywheel side bearing cage with my fingernail. I assume age helped make things brittle but I will never know how long the brgs. would have ran if I had done differently.
 

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