A good MM will have an adjust screw center of unit below pivot of needle. That's on a galvanic response meter. If it's digital, there should be a zero button which you press while holding the leads together. Touch leads together and adjust to ZERO if yours has the adjustment screw, or press the zero button. Also, low batteries will cause a bad reading. OT
@Jondoe @Vintage Engine Repairs said the same thing regarding the location of the module. The fact that the screw was touching the cylinder head really couldn't have helped. I do not know if the saw ran that way with the original Stihl cylinder (which I still have, and appears to be in good condition).
The bent crank - perhaps I had glossed over that and not really spent enough time looking at that. (Wishful thinking on my part, hoping it wasn't really bent?Good morning all.
I have read this entire thread. A lot of things have been done and great suggestions made by VER. Earlier in the thread you mentioned that it has tremendous vibration due to a bent crank shaft. Just wondering why nobody has suggested replacing the crank shaft? The vibration is pretty bad as you had to stop and tighten the top cowl screw several times while sawing in the video. I feel that nothing will work properly with that much vibration. Vibration at high speed = resonance or harmonics. That alone can effect the operation of the carburetor not to mention the operation of the points. Maybe that is why someone went to the CDI?
But you are absolutely right - if that is causing an amount of vibration that is really adversely affecting the rest of the saw's operation, then nothing else is really worth doing. I was hoping the vibration was more of an annoyance, but if the air filter cover won't stay on under power - then that doesn't make for a very useful (or fun) saw. I will try to get a picture or measurement of where I was seeing the "out of round" on the clutch side. My initial thought regarding replacing the crank - that may be a showstopper. On second thought, (depending on cost), I suppose it would continue to be a good learning tool for me. It's been great so far, and am really thankful for everyone's input/ideas/advice.I can't remember if I posted this on this thread - I think it's buried somewhere here, but when I picked up the dead saw there was some missing hardware on the exhaust. One of the screws into the cylinder at the exhaust port was 1/4 way backed out. The exhaust would have been slapping into the exhaust port. And according to my father in law - he hadn't taken anything apart after the saw died (that he remembered). So it seems that something could have easily been ingested into the cylinder. Just a guess. I seriously doubt it was straight gassed, because we run a fleet of saws (meaning 5) and fuel them from the same "mix" jug when we're doing tree work. Not to say it's impossible, but I would think unlikely given our setup and keeping all the saw tools/fuel together.
No snow this time for us. All rain yesterday and today. Temp is reading 63 degrees F this morning - pretty wild! We've been having teens to twenties most mornings in the past couple weeks. Wild weather. Have a great weekend too, thanks for finding the thread!And Patrick, your probably snowed and iced in like we are here in KY.
Hmm...so do you think that could be at play here? Or basically it's at play in any 041 if you don't check/replace those seals??
Nevermind, I watched the video. Bar oil in the cylinder would smoke like a freight train. Your problem definitely sounds like ignition. And also too lean, but until you straighten the ignition out, that issue remains clouded.
OK thanks. I'm curious about checking the oiler, but maybe I'll do that if I can sort the ignition out so as to not throw too many variables into the mix. I'm afraid I would introduce a problem getting into the oiler, so want to keep that from happening until other things are ok.
Stop guessing... Just check the crank (both ends) with a dial indicator. That way you will know if you have an issue or not!
Hi Steve, I don’t have a dial indicator. I’ll have to see about getting one to measure the runout. It’s only on the clutch side, not the flywheel side. Flywheel side was fine judging by how little tolerance there is between the flywheel and case, and just by looking at it.
I did not weigh the piston. I think there was vibration in the saw before the new top end, due to the hardware that was either missing or loose. Not to say that adding an imbalance wouldn’t exacerbate things after the new piston/cylinder.
Doubt that you would have one but you can probably get one at a local Auto Zone store on the borrow a tool program. That's if you have an Auto Zone store in your area.
With all due respect CB, all saws vibrate. Even the AV models. But not like the vibration he is experiencing. It is bad enough on his, that he has to keep tightening the top cowl/filter cover screw while using. Just saying. OT
I have a 'few' saws so I'm aware they vibrate, some more than others. Worns threads can cause the filter to come loose repeatedly. That said, I am not saying the crank is or is not bent. Not enough information. Maybe the clutch shucked a lining or the fanwheel has a bunch of broken fins. A couple quick visual checks would probably answer all questions.
Ha! That’s our basement, a kitchen of sorts down there. Much better than working in the freezing garage. I will occasionally have a carb on our kitchen counter. The under cabinet lights are bright. I need to work on my garage setup.
Great, thanks for that. So when it starts to open, I will keep the cam in that spot and move the points to get the right gap, then tighten it down? Or do I need to keep rotating until the cam is at the apex, then adjust the gap? Sorry, I’m having a hard time envisioning this…
