That’s a lot of coil modification work for no spark!
When you get a chance, post some close-up photos of the Dolmar ignition & the inside of your current S041AVE flywheel.
Photos: SEM Stihl Flywheel 100 468 00, inside of flywheel; north pole magnet denoted by south pole of compass needle attraction, south pole magnet denoted by north pole of compass needle. The other two "magnet appearing" weights across the inside of the flywheel are not magnitized, they are strictly counter-weights to the North and South pole magnets.
4th image is of the Dolmar coil resting in the 041 installation location; you can see the yellow switch-off lead is laying in a notch I cut to ensure it cleared the underside of the flywheel rim.
5th image shows the crack in the Dolmar coil (filled with white concrete dust). Perhaps the coil has internal damage.
6th image shows side view of the Dolmar ignition module stacked directly above the SEM electronic ignition module with the stator plate mounting holes aligned vertically. You can see the iron plates used to generate current when the magnetic flux lines pass by from the rotating flywheel magnets. Note that the Dolmar module has two sets of iron plates close together, where the SEM module has it's number 1 and number 2 sets spread quite far apart.
7th image shows the same module stack from the right-side view: The SEM coil on the bottom, shows it's number 2 and number 3 iron plate sets are located on either side of the Dolmar module's 3rd iron plate set position. This makes me think the Dolmar flywheel must have a different collection of magnets than the SEM flywheel. Perhaps they are located differently along the perimeter of the Dolmar flywheel, as compared to the SEM flywheel This might explain why I was unsuccessful in getting consistent spark behavior; but perhaps the Dolmar module is defective anyway, since it does have a crack.
8th image shows plan view of the Stihl and Dolmar modules side by side.
9th image shows the Stihl module being boiled in water, in an effort to cause the epoxy potting to get to it's glass stage, so that I might be able to dig the compound out to expose the electronics. 212 degrees F, only slightly softened the epoxy, just enough to enable a screw driver tip to slightly dent when pushed hard. Ideally, if the epoxy were removed, then Foggysail's Bosch Ignition fix might be able to be implemented. (the external mounted 400 VDC .8MF capacitor solution). But alas, some higher temperature is needed to remove the epoxy.
Researching how to removed hardened epoxy potting, says methylene chloride solvent may be used to dissolve it. A 500 ml steel bottle can be had for $14 plus shipping. But that's nasty stuff to work with. I suspect it would take days of soaking and much mechanical effort to remove the potting. Methylene chloride would attack any plastic inside the epoxy coating and may attack the aluminum housing as well. Too much trouble.
I have bought an 041 points/condensor stator plate and flywheel off of eBay last night. So that may be the easiest way to restore a spark to the saw.
In conclusion, I think that the installation of a late model Dolmar SEM ignition module in place of the early model SEM module will not solve the "no-spark" problem. While the Dolmar unit I purchased might be defective, the location of the iron plate magnetic pickups being different between the two modules makes me think the original Stihl SEM flywheel would not work properly with the Dolmar ignition module.