Stihl 041AV Electronic recoil

[Leonard]

Hi I'm new to this site....
I was cleaning my Stihl hand recoil starter rope assembly and removed the sideplate cleaned it then put back together ...started it O.K. then tried to start it again and pulled the hand pull and nothing caught....did not grab. so took it apart again and checked out the pawles and when I pull noticed they go outward to grab the plastic inner surface of the flywheel...but prehaps its isn't going out far enough to grab. Cause it moves freely when I pull it.
Only loose part was the plastic sleeve that inserts between the flywheel and the pull/recoil...

Any ideas I might look at to get it to grab again?
thank you..

 

[J.Walker]

Stihl o41AV Eletronic Recoil

Leonard
Bumping up your question again. Hope some of the Stihl guys can help you out. Don't know jack about the insides of Stihls, but I'm sure some help is on it's way!
BTY welcome to the AS site.

 

[Griffbm3]

Should go...

Leonard:

Should go:

Funny looking clip (to catch and "activate pawl")
Pawl
Plastic washer (thin)
recoil itself

Lakeside will jump in here, as will others, had the same problem myself, they helped me out a lot.
Good Luck,
Jason

 

[Leonard]

Thank you for your replies....

Hmmm a "Funny looking clip (to catch and "activate pawl")" That makes sense I guess that is what I'm missing. I'll need to go to a dealer and try to find a parts diagram to see what and where its located...

Did notice a plastice washer that covers the flywheel flange so it won't make contact with the recoil..

 

[Dan Forsh]

I think you are missing item 11

Part # 1117 195 3500

 

[Leonard]

Thank you for the parts guide....its got to be some sort of a clip of sorts, except my recoil assembly is slightly different from the one you included in your reply.

This chainsaw my father bought around 1969-70 when I was 16 yrs old (I'm 52yrs. sad to say).

the pawls are more of a u shaped metal held on by a 1/4" spring with retainer..then a 2" dia. flat washer held on with a spring steel clip....perhaps the clip is situated inside of the recoil itself more on the outside of the outside case portion as compared to between the pawls and flywheel side...I guess I need to disassemble further....

 

[Dan Forsh]

Thank you for the parts guide....its got to be some sort of a clip of sorts, except my recoil assembly is slightly different from the one you included in your reply.

This chainsaw my father bought around 1969-70 when I was 16 yrs old (I'm 52yrs. sad to say).

the pawls are more of a u shaped metal held on by a 1/4" spring with retainer..then a 2" dia. flat washer held on with a spring steel clip....perhaps the clip is situated inside of the recoil itself more on the outside of the outside case portion as compared to between the pawls and flywheel side...I guess I need to disassemble further....

Do you mean this type?

 

[Leonard]

YES that looks like it Dan...thanks.
Except #11 what I would call the pawls that grab into the plastic inner ring located in the flywheel are bent in sort of a U shape( instead of flat looking in the picture... but that could just be the parts picture....

Do you notice any funny looking clip to activate the pawls to cause them to grab when you pull the rope.....possibly #1 ???

.........or maybe my pawls should be a bit straighter and they are too bent (they are bent say about 30 degrees from flat). But both pawls on either side are bent the same....no difference. Or maybe my plastic ring on the flywheer is worn...but I would think I would at least feel some sort of contact...when I pull it just pulls freely, no contact at all..

 

[Frank Boyer]

The plastic ring gets worn out. I replaced mine a few times and then found out that the crank was moving up and down enough to wipe out the plastic ring. The plastic ring should fit tight.

 

[Leonard]

Well my plastic ring is loose so monday will order another one....but when I first put together the pull start sideplate after cleaning I forgot to install the plastic ring and I was able to start it...then after that it didn't grab and that was when I reinstalled the plastic ring. But still won't grab so will try getting another plastic ring...didn't notice any play in my crank...hope that is not the case.

Santa Cruz Mountains Huh!
I was born in San Jose....raised around Little Uvas, Morgan Hill area. Then when to school at Cubberly High in Palo Alto (in the 60's) had auto shop with Mr. Smart and Mr Riddle. Left to Oklahoma in 1970. Just moved my mother back to Oklahoma from La Selva Beach(..near Watsonville) a year ago last August. I've ridden my bike all over those mountains...Eureka Canyon...Mt. Bache...Soquel had some land near Davenport ...in the mountains ...was the back way to Big Basin......Small world!

 

[Dan Forsh]

Hi,

Is this a better view?

This image is for the starter assembly for my Stihl Contra. An older saw, but I think it uses the same assembly. The 041AV I have uses the more modern starter I gave in the first image, but you seem to have the older centrifugal version. So I assume your saw has a corrugated inner ring on the fan wheel that the "U" pawls engage on? The one on my Contra is aluminium, but I can understand how these will eventually wear out as I find filings in mine and it does look worn.

This type of pawl needs to be sharpened, look at the instructions in the image, to ensure that it bites into the ring. It might be that you just need to sharpen yours?

I don't think Item #1 is your problem. The IPL shows two variations on possible setups. Items # 1 & 2 are the spring and spring housing. This would be alternative to Item #5 in this case.

If you want the full IPL just PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you.

Dan

 

[Leonard]

That's alot better view...the pawls I mentioned before; are called the "friction shoes plates"...and yes I will try to sharpen them at a 60 degree angle with the point according to the way each arrow is pointing in the photo. And for sure I will try to go ahead and order the inner "corragated inner ring along with the plastic washer that mounts around the outside of the inner corragated ring that goes on the inner section of the fanwheel that the "friction shoes" engage into...mine is plastic by the way so I bet it is worn..

I did try to reverse the friction plates since one side was more worn than the other...but will now also try to sharpen them.

 

[Leonard]

Guys
Want to thank you for all your help...filing the friction shoe plates worked...
BUT
may have worked to well ...the plates must of caught in the plastic corragated ring and twisted my recoil the oppsite direction when it started causing the slot in the outside casing that holds the retainer spring to break in the side case.....Oh well ---- happens!

 

[Welshy_Pete]

Hi,

Is this a better view?

This image is for the starter assembly for my Stihl Contra. An older saw, but I think it uses the same assembly. The 041AV I have uses the more modern starter I gave in the first image, but you seem to have the older centrifugal version. So I assume your saw has a corrugated inner ring on the fan wheel that the "U" pawls engage on? The one on my Contra is aluminium, but I can understand how these will eventually wear out as I find filings in mine and it does look worn.

This type of pawl needs to be sharpened, look at the instructions in the image, to ensure that it bites into the ring. It might be that you just need to sharpen yours?

I don't think Item #1 is your problem. The IPL shows two variations on possible setups. Items # 1 & 2 are the spring and spring housing. This would be alternative to Item #5 in this case.

If you want the full IPL just PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you.

Dan

I know this is a very old post but its something Ive found handy. Also the pictures show the diffrences in the recoils.

I bought a Stihl TS350 disc cutter saw which was running. It come with loads of new discs and bits etc. I decided to give it a full service cleaning all the filters and parts of the machine. Also a new spark plug everything going well.

But after cleaning everything up the recoil when pulling it slips. It doesn't catch the fly wheel recoil nylon ring anymore or it does but hardly ever. It looked warn out so I bought 2 new ones which are better but still the same problem.

The 2 metal arms go out to clasp the nylon ring on the fly wheel. But it still slips and I cant think what the problem is.

Im lost at the moment what to do or try.

 

[Welshy_Pete]

I got the same problem!

 

[Welshy_Pete]

Hi,

Is this a better view?

This image is for the starter assembly for my Stihl Contra. An older saw, but I think it uses the same assembly. The 041AV I have uses the more modern starter I gave in the first image, but you seem to have the older centrifugal version. So I assume your saw has a corrugated inner ring on the fan wheel that the "U" pawls engage on? The one on my Contra is aluminium, but I can understand how these will eventually wear out as I find filings in mine and it does look worn.

This type of pawl needs to be sharpened, look at the instructions in the image, to ensure that it bites into the ring. It might be that you just need to sharpen yours?

I don't think Item #1 is your problem. The IPL shows two variations on possible setups. Items # 1 & 2 are the spring and spring housing. This would be alternative to Item #5 in this case.

If you want the full IPL just PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you.

Dan

Can these matal friction shoes be bought still?

Anther question Ive got the TS350 stihl cutter earlyer model with the metal shoes and plastic nylon ring. The TS350 super looks the same but has the other recoil with the plastic paw and diffrence flywheel but with metal steps on that instead. Are these interchangable swapping the flywheel and anther recoil. The reason being you can get more recoil parts for the TS350 super.

The funny thing the TS350 has more spares but not the metal friction shoes needed.

 

[Welshy_Pete]

I think the TS350 super stihl has the electronic egnition. The TS350 does it or not?

So if that s true swapping the flywheel and recoils over from both wouldn't work or fit?

Ive got the earlyer TS350 with the 2 metal friction shoes. Not the later TS350 super which has the plastic paw.

 

[Welshy_Pete]

I think the TS350 super stihl has the electronic egnition. The TS350 does it or not?

So if that s true swapping the flywheel and recoils over from both wouldn't work or fit?

Ive got the earlyer TS350 with the 2 metal friction shoes. Not the later TS350 super which has the plastic paw.

This wont work the swap over so that idea out no good.

 

[Welshy_Pete]

The only way to solve this problem is either buy anther machine for spares as there plenty on ebay. Only other way is to have the metal friction shoes made in a metal place.

 

[Welshy_Pete]

The only way to solve this problem is either buy anther machine for spares as there plenty on ebay. Only other way is to have the metal friction shoes made in a metal place.

I got the metal friction shoes there hard to find and get for the earlyer ts350 stihl saw cutter. It uses the points ignition system. The later ts350 super uses the electronic ignition with plastic paw.

I got the new part which is hard to get hold of but Ive found a good contact now. I fitted the new part and it pulls the starter great which I thought.

But then it wouldn't start so I thought what the hell this time no spark.

Then after 2 days of working it all out and stripping the machine down. The flywheel had the old points ignition system a coil with 2 metal parts then magnets on the flywheel. These were dirty sluge and rust so I cleaned the hole lot up. I got a friend coming down next week the flywheel needs putting back a certon air gap for it to spark properly. Cause at the moment my gap wrong so it spark and burns the magnets on the flywheel. But least I know there a good spark.

Pictures to follow Ive learnt alot about the stihl machines now. I know which parts fit what machines from the ts350 early to the later ts350 stihl disc cutters. Then the 08s chain saw stihl alot of people dont even know about this stuff its so hard to find out. Even online there very little about it all. So Im glad I did alot of research online and in local shops.

Also I did find out you can do a conversion from the point ignition system to the electronic ignition it can be done. From what I can tell the flywheel and and iner ignition system along with the recoil and circule plate just need changing over. Cause its a very simple system looking at it all.

So hopefully the 30 year old machine going to be up and running again next week.