confused and mystified!!??!!!#@&%$#. 372 recoil

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The big ring groove worn in to the pulley might be an indication something is not right.
See how half the H is missing?
The two clean halves on the pawl bolts look a bit suspect.
Your rope tail and knot are sitting a little proud of the pulley.
Looks like the pulley was gouged out by the pawl screws. Are they tight?
 
Grab your starter in your hands- look at it and look at the photo of @singinwoodwackr 's one- see how his is nice and flat sitting inside the orange surrounds?

As for the blue wire- follow its path- where does it go- what does it do? Does it have any bearing on creating spark- or is it to do with extinguishing it?

As for the hydro locking- it will add resistance- but if the recoil were not binding mechanically, I would hazard a guess the rope would still retract- just somewhat slower.

Could someone have had the pawls off that wheel and fitted them with the springs jammed under not around the shank?
 
well, it starts and runs! I still get this sense of resistance when I blip the throttle, made me wonder if the chain brake was on, but it's not. Previous owner used vegetable oil that turned to glue, and I wonder if that gumming up the works somewhere, but not sure as it has a clutch but no clutch drum
 
Grab your starter in your hands- look at it and look at the photo of @singinwoodwackr 's one- see how his is nice and flat sitting inside the orange surrounds?

As for the blue wire- follow its path- where does it go- what does it do? Does it have any bearing on creating spark- or is it to do with extinguishing it?

As for the hydro locking- it will add resistance- but if the recoil were not binding mechanically, I would hazard a guess the rope would still retract- just somewhat slower.

Could someone have had the pawls off that wheel and fitted them with the springs jammed under not around the shank?
I have a feeling that all of singingwoodwakers saws are nicer than mine......... ( except my shindaiwa 680!)
 
removed the clutch, and resistance to throttle blipping went away. It was all gummed up behind there with polymerized veg oil, and it didn't even have the clutch drum. So that's my next purchase
 
Ok I would check and see how worn the pully is on the spindle, when they get worn they get in a bind and won't retract. If it has any side to side wiggle it probably needs to be replaced. Judging by the grooves I think this may be your problem.
 
removed the clutch, and resistance to throttle blipping went away. It was all gummed up behind there with polymerized veg oil, and it didn't even have the clutch drum. So that's my next purchase
I wouldn't run the saw with the clutch drum removed, it could damage the clutch, case and brake band. But it sounds like you are on the right track
 
A few points:
How the starter retracts has nothing to do with the crank moving, should retract freely even if crank is locked.
NEVER run a saw with no clutch drum, if the springs snap or extend too much, the clutch shoes can come free and become lethal projectiles.
NEVER run a saw with a newly installed clutch and drum but no chain and bar unless you are absolutely sure the clutch has been properly tightened on the crank. Rev it up and when you back off on the throttle, the clutch continues to spin, unthreads itself and falls off the saw doing about 10,000 rpm.
 
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