Stihl 044 for milling

[80series]

Hi everyone.
Just a query regarding chainsaw milling. I have an early(1989 ish) 10mm Stihl 044. It is all original and runs good. Has 150 compression.
I am wanting to have a go at milling. Nothing too big. I have 22 and 28 inch bars for the saw.
Is the 044 up to the job? I'll buy a bigger saw if I get right into it.
Thanks

 

[huskihl]

It’s ok to try it to see if you I like it but I wouldn’t use one as a dedicated mill saw especially as hard as NZ wood is. If you decide to continue with it, I’d look to a 395, 3120, 056, or something like that with a good oiler and higher torque/less rpm

 

[J D]

What kind of timber do you think you'll be milling & how wide?
A skiptooth or Granberg style chain will lighten the load on the saw, as will an auxiliary oiler.
Where abouts in the country are you?

 

[80series]

What kind of timber do you think you'll be milling & how wide?
A skiptooth or Granberg style chain will lighten the load on the saw, as will an auxiliary oiler.
Where abouts in the country are you?

Hi. I want to try milling some of the native timbers that wash down the rivers.
I live in Timaru so access most Canterbury rivers.
Cheers

 

[80series]

It’s ok to try it to see if you I like it but I wouldn’t use one as a dedicated mill saw especially as hard as NZ wood is. If you decide to continue with it, I’d look to a 395, 3120, 056, or something like that with a good oiler and higher torque/less rpm

Hi, Thanks for your input.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Hi everyone.
Just a query regarding chainsaw milling. I have an early(1989 ish) 10mm Stihl 044. It is all original and runs good. Has 150 compression.
I am wanting to have a go at milling. Nothing too big. I have 22 and 28 inch bars for the saw.
Is the 044 up to the job? I'll buy a bigger saw if I get right into it.
Thanks

Use the 22”

 

[J D]

Hi. I want to try milling some of the native timbers that wash down the rivers.
I live in Timaru so access most Canterbury rivers.
Cheers

I'm up North in Wanganui...
You may find the logs from the river will have a fair bit of sediment inbeded in them which will be hard on your chains. Removing the bark can help get around this.
You'll want to do your 044 as many favours as you can if you're milling harder natives, a chain well sharpened for milling is key. Check out the chainsaw milling 101 thread if you haven't already... it's become quite a read but there's some really good information in there

 

[80series]

I'm up North in Wanganui...
You may find the logs from the river will have a fair bit of sediment inbeded in them which will be hard on your chains. Removing the bark can help get around this.
You'll want to do your 044 as many favours as you can if you're milling harder natives, a chain well sharpened for milling is key. Check out the chainsaw milling 101 thread if you haven't already... it's become quite a read but there's some really good information in there

Hi, thanks very much for that info.
I get my firewood from the rivers. You are right about it being hard on chains but it's free so I can live with that.
I was going to try one of the Topmaq mills. $189 on special for a 36 inch.

 

[J D]

I got started with one of those. The centre handle also never fit & the measurements on the standards were 1/4" out from each other so I complained. Took them several months & a dozen or more calls & emails before they sent another set (which were worse, but fortunately 2 out of the 4 matched well enough). I ended up making a new centre handle & replacing any of the nuts/bolts that needed regular adjustment as the threads all failed.
The "deep nuts" for the U-bolts on the clamps are available in both metric & imperial but one was ridiculously expensive (can't remember which sorry) so check that & buy replacement U-bolts that go with the cheaper nuts. I got everything I needed from the local Trade zone (MacDonald Equipment) for about $15.
A 36" mill allows you to make a 36" cut but you would need a 42" bar to do so as you loose around 6" of bar length when you attach the mill.
All that said the topmaq mill on special is still going to be cheaper than buying the standards & Ali extrusion separately & mine has more than paid for itself by now

 

[80series]

I got started with one of those. The centre handle also never fit & the measurements on the standards were 1/4" out from each other so I complained. Took them several months & a dozen or more calls & emails before they sent another set (which were worse, but fortunately 2 out of the 4 matched well enough). I ended up making a new centre handle & replacing any of the nuts/bolts that needed regular adjustment as the threads all failed.
The "deep nuts" for the U-bolts on the clamps are available in both metric & imperial but one was ridiculously expensive (can't remember which sorry) so check that & buy replacement U-bolts that go with the cheaper nuts. I got everything I needed from the local Trade zone (MacDonald Equipment) for about $15.
A 36" mill allows you to make a 36" cut but you would need a 42" bar to do so as you loose around 6" of bar length when you attach the mill.
All that said the topmaq mill on special is still going to be cheaper than buying the standards & Ali extrusion separately & mine has more than paid for itself by now

Hi, Thanks for that information..
They are a quarter the cost of the Granberg so I don't mind doing a few mods.
I might grab one tomorrow

 

[Dennisthemenace]

The 044 10 mm in good condition is a very desirable saw. Why work it to it's max on a mill?
Get a 90cc saw for the milling and enjoy the 044 for what a cool saw it is, or sell it to me

 

[muddy42]

Personally I'd get a bigger saw and bar for milling. Regarding the saw, a 28 inch bar is really the maximum for a 70-ish cc saw. But milling is pretty stressful for a saw and it will be working hard and can cause overheating and engine failure. If you do proceed, keep the chain sharp, don't force it into the wood and warm/cool the engine before/after use.

Regarding the mill, the frame and felling spikes and sprocket cause you to lose 3 inches or so of cutting space. Don't clamp over the sprocket or you will destroy the bar pretty quickly (I learned this the hard way!). Then you need 2 inches or so of wriggle room to the maximum sized log to allow for knots and bumps in the wood as you run. Then if you cut the boards into rectangular planks you'll lose a few more inches either side. So in reality unless your wood is super straight you don't end up with much useable timber. But for me the benefit of milling is creating otherwise expensive hardwood planks, which don't tend to be that straight. Softwood might as well be bought from a timber yard.

I mill everything with a 120cc saw and 36 inch bar, but 90cc would also be OK. I also take a 70-ish cc saw and 22 inch bar with me to fell and prepare the logs for milling. this is useful because you don't have to keep removing the saw from the mill.

 

[80series]

Personally I'd get a bigger saw and bar for milling. Regarding the saw, a 28 inch bar is really the maximum for a 70-ish cc saw. But milling is pretty stressful for a saw and it will be working hard and can cause overheating and engine failure. If you do proceed, keep the chain sharp, don't force it into the wood and warm/cool the engine before/after use.

Regarding the mill, the frame and felling spikes and sprocket cause you to lose 3 inches or so of cutting space. Don't clamp over the sprocket or you will destroy the bar pretty quickly (I learned this the hard way!). Then you need 2 inches or so of wriggle room to the maximum sized log to allow for knots and bumps in the wood as you run. Then if you cut the boards into rectangular planks you'll lose a few more inches either side. So in reality unless your wood is super straight you don't end up with much useable timber. But for me the benefit of milling is creating otherwise expensive hardwood planks, which don't tend to be that straight. Softwood might as well be bought from a timber yard.

I mill everything with a 120cc saw and 36 inch bar, but 90cc would also be OK. I also take a 70-ish cc saw and 22 inch bar with me to fell and prepare the logs for milling. this is useful because you don't have to keep removing the saw from the mill.

Hi, Thanks for your in depth reply. I appreciate you taking the time.
I'll try out milling with the 044 but I'll be gentle on it as I don't want to wreck a great saw.
I'll look round for a 660 or similar if I get into it. It would be good to run 2 saws anyway.
Cheers

 

[muddy42]

Hi, Thanks for your in depth reply. I appreciate you taking the time.
I'll try out milling with the 044 but I'll be gentle on it as I don't want to wreck a great saw.
I'll look round for a 660 or similar if I get into it. It would be good to run 2 saws anyway.
Cheers

Sounds good. Maybe consider a mill that is a little on the large size to accommodate the 28 and a bigger bar.