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chapstick8

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I purchased this stihl 044 for 300 dollars in hopes of a 10mm slant fin.. it was seized up, cylinder pitched at an angle when looking through exhaust port.. I managed to get the jug off and figured it was seized in the bottom end. After a lot of research I think I have a 10mm in hand. Figured i would come to you guys for clarification. It has a black lever, SN starting at 122. And thing that throws me off is the number on top of the cylinder.. has that 12+ after the (115/12+). As I’m new to rebuilding saws I was also curious if you would be worried about the small knick on the top of the exhaust port inside the cylinder. It also seems like the plating has worn thin in the shiny areas? Really hoping this cylinder is still good as to me (a novice) it looks in good shape. Pics below. Thanks again for all the info. Learned a lot through you guys here online.
 

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Appears you definitely have a crank bearing and/or rod bearing issue. Piston has made contact with cylinder. Also noticed the sealant on base of cylinder. Someone’s been in there before. Hard to tell from pictures if it’s 10 or 12mm wrist pin. I’ve heard some of the late slant fin saws had 12mm wrist pin. Continue with tear down and measure it, only way to know for sure. The 10mm pistons (OEM) are no longer available.
 
Appears you definitely have a crank bearing and/or rod bearing issue. Piston has made contact with cylinder. Also noticed the sealant on base of cylinder. Someone’s been in there before. Hard to tell from pictures if it’s 10 or 12mm wrist pin. I’ve heard some of the late slant fin saws had 12mm wrist pin. Continue with tear down and measure it, only way to know for sure. The 10mm pistons (OEM) are no longer available.
Okay sounds good! And thank you for the reply. Measure the inside diameter of wrist pin or outer?
 
Someone did a base gasket delete without checking squish.
Im just learning about squish. Because of what they did about not measuring squish, is the cylinder shot? Or the crankcase? I was hoping to continue tearing it down and then when rebuilding add base gasket. Thanks for the reply
 
Im just learning about squish. Because of what they did about not measuring squish, is the cylinder shot? Or the crankcase? I was hoping to continue tearing it down and then when rebuilding add base gasket. Thanks for the reply

You'll need to clean up the inside of the cylinder, lots of info on that here, and post some better pictures of the inside.

Some wet/dry ~220 paper with detergent and your fingers will clean it enough to get an idea

The piston is shot from smashing into the cylinder, and most likely the rod/crank. Cases are probably OK.

Easy to measure the piston pin dia. Even using open end wrenches you can tell if it's 10mm or 12mm.

What is condition of the rest of the saw?
 
You'll need to clean up the inside of the cylinder, lots of info on that here, and post some better pictures of the inside.

Some wet/dry ~220 paper with detergent and your fingers will clean it enough to get an idea

The piston is shot from smashing into the cylinder, and most likely the rod/crank. Cases are probably OK.

Easy to measure the piston pin dia. Even using open end wrenches you can tell if it's 10mm or 12mm.

What is condition of the rest of the saw?
Okay thanks for the info. So they didn’t measure the squish which is the reason the piston hit the top of the cylinder? I’m just now seeing that ring imprinted on the top of the piston. Is that where you came up with knowing the piston hit the cylinder? The saw is well used. I’m working on cleaning it up and I’ll post more pictures of condition. I’m imagining rod/crank are either hard of impossible to find for these 10mm 044s.. thanks
 
Okay thanks for the info. So they didn’t measure the squish which is the reason the piston hit the top of the cylinder? I’m just now seeing that ring imprinted on the top of the piston. Is that where you came up with knowing the piston hit the cylinder? The saw is well used. I’m working on cleaning it up and I’ll post more pictures of condition. I’m imagining rod/crank are either hard of impossible to find for these 10mm 044s.. thanks

You can see a circular mark on the top of the piston and inside on the top of the jug.

I think you can put a 12mm crank and piston assy in it, and still use the cyl you have.
 
You can see a circular mark on the top of the piston and inside on the top of the jug.

I think you can put a 12mm crank and piston assy in it, and still use the cyl you have.
I really hope so because after a few hours of digging, I got to he cylinder and crank moved up enough so I could remove the piston. The base of where the cylinder sits looks like it took a good amount of damage. And the crank looks trashed. Still going to continue breaking down.
 

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I really hope so because after a few hours of digging, I got to he cylinder and crank moved up enough so I could remove the piston. The base of where the cylinder sits looks like it took a good amount of damage. And the crank looks trashed. Still going to continue breaking down.

Woops- looks like $300 that could have gone in a better direction. :oops:
 
Usually the base gasket can be deleted safely on an 044 so I’m betting a case bearing, rod bearing, or wrist pin bearing was already shot and likely why it was parked
That was my thought as well. Even with base gasket removed the piston shouldn’t make contact with the cylinder.
 
Awesome thanks for the info.. I think the next problem is finding a crank that fits the piston. I’ll have to search some
You can use a regular 12 mm crank and 12 mm piston in that jug. Can't switch the other way around, though. Is the cylinder a Mahle, or the earlier K$ brand? The K$ is the most desirable one, rare by now.
 
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