After removing it to replace the oil seal the spark is weak. It was fine before. Connections look good. It's weak through an inline spark tester that works good. Any ideas?
Stihl 056 ignition
- Thread starter Jasonrkba
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Im going to pull the ignition again tomorrow and scrub everything. I used blue threadlocker on the mounting bolts. Does the ignition use the bolts as a ground? Just trying to think of something I may have inadvertently done to weaken the spark. It has to be something simple.
Im going to pull the ignition again tomorrow and scrub everything. I used blue threadlocker on the mounting bolts. Does the ignition use the bolts as a ground? Just trying to think of something I may have inadvertently done to weaken the spark. It has to be something simple.
So i would inspect all of the grounds attached to the coil if you had the flywheel off might have messed with the points slightly also picture help just incase we see something you dont.
It has the electronic Bosch ignition.
No good at all do you have a replacement coil?
Nope. Guess I'll try to repair or use a nova chip. Tinman did one on a big dolmar that used the bosch with success.
The weak spark on the bosch seems like the easiest fix. Seems to me its caused by the coil itself. I could be wrong im just guessing. There are aftermarket options on ebay. Duke has one that looks like would work. Has anyone tried it?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DUKE-S-IGN...f-1842-442d-9ef1-76301d2e5cf2&redirect=mobile
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DUKE-S-IGN...f-1842-442d-9ef1-76301d2e5cf2&redirect=mobile
Is the coil as tight to the flywheel as you can get it without without it rubbing. The coil is grounded through the laminated legs of the coil so all surfaces between legs and engine MUST be clean and tight.
These are internal to the flywheel. Located under it.
I tried the foggy sail ignition trick and still have weak spark. I have another one that also had weak spark, i stole the coil off of it just to try and still had weak spark. I tried with the switch disconnected and changed the plug wire. I also tried a different rotor. Proline offers an aftermarket for $130. Thats a lot of bread. Does anyone have any idea what to try? I have a decent amount of money and a ton of time in this thing the experience is usually a lot of fun for me but I'm getting tired of looking at it.
This is the cap that I used. Im no electrical engineer. Is it possible I wired it backwards? Im not getting much feedback on this thread so I'll use it to think out loud. Thank you to all that have helped so far. These ignitions are a pain.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/0-01uF-400...-c624cbbff582&epid=5006985344&redirect=mobile
https://www.ebay.com/itm/0-01uF-400...-c624cbbff582&epid=5006985344&redirect=mobile
No, it’s not polarized or wired backwards, but you’re capacitance is 100 times too small…here is the photo copied from his old repair thread.
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I tried the foggy sail ignition trick and still have weak spark. I have another one that also had weak spark, i stole the coil off of it just to try and still had weak spark. I tried with the switch disconnected and changed the plug wire. I also tried a different rotor. Proline offers an aftermarket for $130. Thats a lot of bread. Does anyone have any idea what to try? I have a decent amount of money and a ton of time in this thing the experience is usually a lot of fun for me but I'm getting tired of looking at it.
I wish I had something to offer more than this.....
If it makes you feel any better, I've had zero luck getting the inner flywheel off a spare unit/case, LOL!
Well that makes since to me. I didnt see the .01 instead of 1uf. Always learning! Thank you.
They can be a pain. I made a homeaid puller and used a heat gun. I replaced the seals and rings on all of them when I was done as well as a gasket delete on one and thinner gasket on another. I now have two running and this third Im working on. I plan on milling to make a little side money. We have a stump dump here on the farm and the tree guys are constantly dumping good firewood as well as stuff good for milling.
Nice!
I picked one up also with the intention of putting it on the mill, but I don't have the time or patience to diagnose between carb/fuel issues and the coil, especially with good coils being impossible to find. No idea if the spare one is good.
I was using a two-jaw puller. Got the outer flywheel off fine, but the bite is a hair too thick on either side of the jaws to get up under the lip of the inner. My buddy has a three-jaw with thinner bites, but I haven't been out to his place to try it.
So I gave up and posted them for sale on the ole Tradin' Post.
My solution for the problem you are having was/is I got 3 good hard bolts (Like 8 grade in SAE only the metric equivalence) with a nut for each. With a flat face puller with 3 symmetrical slots have a flat washer against the bolt head through the puller (with the 3 bolts in in the puller) thread the nut on the bolt then thread the bolt into the flywheel where it is threaded for the Fanwheel.(all 3 equally) Run the nut down (Jamb) to lock it in place this gives you 3 legs to pull with that hopefully won't pull the threads out. Center and pull as evenly as possible. I haven't had to use heat yet but tempted a few times. Some of the earlier flywheels had smaller holes threaded into them to hold the fan wheel on than the later version Bosch and I did pull (Ruin) a thread once and oversized/rethreaded it just keep in mind where the module and coil are so you don't bugger them. A good straight rap with a hammer on puller when under load will help a lot. Good luck.
Wish I could post Pictures. That is what my first puller looked like .. I had longer bolts so I could jamb the nuts against the flywheel 'cuz my firs flywheel was the smaller bolts holding the fan wheel. and I was really worried about stripping it. I didn't need heat and seals weren't readily available to me at the time.
