Stihl 064 questions

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isawben

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I was working on an 064, and had some questions about it. I went to take off the air box, and it has 2 plastic rivets holding it to the fuel tank. Can they be drilled out, and the air box will still attach properly, or will it not seal? There is also some sealant around the base, and can find no mention of it being factory. Also, is there supposed to be a ring around the outside of the boot? I’ve seen mentions of many different set ups, but never just this. If it helps at all, the s/n is 116913466image.jpgimage.jpg
 
This one only has five screws, and two rivets where it looks like screws should be.
 
In my opinion, drilling the rivet heads off is going to generate heat and start melting the rivet head into the plastic- sharp correct sized drill bit and slow speed would be your best bet if we are talking metal pop rivets in place of screws- or are you meaning the plastic locator in the second photo and calling it a rivet?

Next question- why do you need to remove it? If you are swapping out tank bottoms, sure, if the new one came without air box fitted- but if not, leave well alone.
Most all 1122 tank airbox joints I have had anything to do with have clear silicone type adhesive between the orange bit and the white/clear bit.
 
Well, after some thinking I decided to leave well well alone, and not remove the air box. As I continued to go through the saw however, I found the oil line had disintegrated.D948DAF8-3331-4188-9F01-AB5A59ADC0CD.jpeg
Does anyone know if the brass connector is original, or maybe if the line had been broken before and this was an attempted repair? Once again, no mentions in ipls or shop manuals. Thanks for any info,
Ben
 
Well, after some thinking I decided to leave well well alone, and not remove the air box. As I continued to go through the saw however, I found the oil line had disintegrated.View attachment 984417
Does anyone know if the brass connector is original, or maybe if the line had been broken before and this was an attempted repair? Once again, no mentions in ipls or shop manuals. Thanks for any info,
Ben
That don't look like OEM Stihl oil line (fibers). It should be one piece with a wire coil inside to keep it from kinking. Looks like someone didn't use OEM tubing and had to use an elbow to keep the hose from kinking.

That OEM hose is stiff as a sailor on shore leave. Stihl says to use "modified" pliers to install over the barb/nipple on oil pump. I heat the hose gently.

The Stihl hose kit comes with enough hose to do it twice, or once if you screw it up the first time..........

036 has a similar setup. First picture shows the hose cut to length with brass insert installed, wire coil below it. Second one the outlet in the case where the brass brass insert makes the hose an interference fit. Third installed hose.

I use needle nose and a Bic lighter to heat the plastic. Don't heat to much, just enough to get it pliable, or it will mush up when you try to slide it over the barb on the pump. A little oil helps here

oil hose kit.jpg

oil hose outlet.jpg

oil pump connected.jpg
 
Thankfully, no. It's just a shadow. That's where the clutch drum wore at one point, for reasons I don't know. However, the groove it made isn't deep enough to go through.
 
Screenshot 2022-05-08 20.25.23.png
Looking at the ipl however, is does show a washer, which wasn't on the saw when I got it. Should that washer be there, and might it be the reason for the wear?
 
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