Stihl 084 AV

[Keener]

O.K I think I pulled it over till one arms longer than the other, time to ask the pros.
Guy gives me this 084 its about 8 or 9 years old has sat on a shelf for the last 5 yrs or so and was used ( abused ?) seldom before that.
The only missuse evidence is that the bar was run to the point of overheat on one side, also they must have run it bound up as one side of the bar rail is much thinner than the other.
Peeked in the exhaust, bore looks good.
Trouble is no spark, have already sanded the module mounting bosses and mating surfaces, pulled the ground and return wires and redone the plug connector into a new spot on the plug lead.
Also reset the gap to flywheel at about .010 approx. Has great compression, just about lift myself off the ground with the comp. release engaged, spins over freely without plug in.
Any suggestions anyone?

 

[HUSKYMAN]

I dont know a whole lot about ignition symptoms so I will leave that alone, but I am assuming since there is no spark that the plug is getting wet with fuel then? A saw that has been sitting for five years will probably have some carb problems and need a rebuild.

Is the 084 covered by Stihls lifetime ignition warranty? if so just take it to a Stihl dealer.

 

[Keener]

No Huskyman the plug is as dry as can be your probably right though it will need a rebuild.
I thought I would try to get the thing sparking then see about the carb.
The stihl warranty started in 1989 I think so they will have to see from the serial # if it qualifies, probably want to see a sales receipt too.
I'll contact the dealer and see what he can do.
Lots of good info on the ignition module thread which I read after posting my question, of course

 

[kdhotsaw]

084

hello keener, sounds like you've done all the basic diagnostics, checking the kill switch, cleaning the ground and attaching points, changing the plug, but on the 084 you also need to Pull the wires out of the harness that the spark plug wire and the blackwire and yellow with a green trace wire that go thru and check for any bare spots on those two wires. if they are bare and touch the frame or the two touch anywhere they will ground and shut off the ignition. if all this checks out you're going to need a module or coil or both. also double check it two pins on the end of the 2 wires to make shure they are positioned properly in the kill switch mechanism.
ken [email protected]

 

[Keener]

Thanks for your input Ken, I did slide the heat sheild tube off the wires and checked but they looked fine. I think it is a fried module so I took it in for free replacement.
The local dealer says they have a test device which heats the coil to mimic hot starting problems and will test it cold and hot before giving up on it.
As a complete change of topic what would be a good saw make and model to modify for the entry level racing ( up to 50cc I think you said in another post) Im wondering if any of my spares could suffice.

 

[kdhotsaw]

small hot saw

hello keener,
out here on the west coast where i'm from the smallest class is 5 cubic inches, then 6 cubic inches,,then over six cubic inches, then over 6 cubic inches modified. I think john lambert said their was a 3 cube and under class back east. my choice would be the 346 husky for that class. anyway, everyone on arboristsite are having that saw built by walker's, dennis g, and myself so we should just start that class for small saws
ken [email protected]