Wolfking42084
ArboristSite Operative
What chain do you guys prefer on your big saw? Is there a difference in stihl with slower rpm vs. husky with high rpm? I had been running 36" half skip. Any suggestions if anything will work better? thanks logan
stihl 084 chain(In the right place now)
- Thread starter Wolfking42084
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1savagehunter
ArboristSite Operative
What lenght of bar
I use a full chisel on my 460 with 28" bar and LOVE it. Lots will say you get more from skip ... seems to me that with skip you move the chips abit more ... sharpen less teeth BUT have to sharpen more often.
I use a full chisel on my 460 with 28" bar and LOVE it. Lots will say you get more from skip ... seems to me that with skip you move the chips abit more ... sharpen less teeth BUT have to sharpen more often.
jomoco
Tree Freak
Full skip chisel 404 worked great on my 084 before it was friggin stolen from my tooltruck on a caltrans freeway removal contract, and I had already chased the jerk off once! Long bars don't fit in my locking toolboxes and I've since learned to use chains, thick ones! Persistence paid for him that day!
jomoco
Nailsbeats
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have you ever considered a handgun in the tree? Treemandan packs one. Oh and yes, sorry about your loss. I have kinda been getting a woody thinking about the 084 on another thread tonight.
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1savagehunter
ArboristSite Operative
JOMOCO - sorry to hear of your loss ... I second the handgun suggestion.
jomoco
Tree Freak
I used to run 404 full comp on my 3120 Husky for the 50" bar, then stepped down to .375 when we put on the 36" bar. Too much work! We keep everything in .404, since the 3/8th chain breaks too often. All those claims of greater cutting speed don't count when you loose time on a broken chain.
I still have a lot of .404 full comp, and we are keeping that on the 36" bar, but I am slowly changing to skip tooth for the 50" bar. It's not that the full comp takes too much power...nope. Got lots of that. In a big cut, it takes too much force to keep cutting pressure on all the teeth. As the cut gets longer, the chips get smaller and the cut slows waaay down, especially if you are obliged to cut without the dogs on the top of the bar. So you jockey the saw around to keep the contact area smaller, and it is a lot of moving around to keep everything cutting well. Not always a practical way to cut, especially on a big stump next to a concrete foundation.
The skip tooth cuts better on a long sweep through the wood, especially on a big stump where the cutters get dulled quickly.
I still have a lot of .404 full comp, and we are keeping that on the 36" bar, but I am slowly changing to skip tooth for the 50" bar. It's not that the full comp takes too much power...nope. Got lots of that. In a big cut, it takes too much force to keep cutting pressure on all the teeth. As the cut gets longer, the chips get smaller and the cut slows waaay down, especially if you are obliged to cut without the dogs on the top of the bar. So you jockey the saw around to keep the contact area smaller, and it is a lot of moving around to keep everything cutting well. Not always a practical way to cut, especially on a big stump next to a concrete foundation.
The skip tooth cuts better on a long sweep through the wood, especially on a big stump where the cutters get dulled quickly.
Ed*L
ArboristSite Guru
I run .404 pitch on my 084. Full comp on the 24 & 36" bars, skip on the 60".
Ed
Ed
Wolfking42084
ArboristSite Operative
So most of you guys are saying run skip tooth on say anything over 36"? I have the 36" stihl bar right now just cause the biggest thing I've been in so far has been around that mark. I definitely want to get atleast a 48", because of some of the flairs and even trunks here in the appalachians get pretty big. I have a red oak coming up that will approach 60"+ and have considered getting the 59" bar that stihl makes. My problem now is that i need a saw to carry on the crane with me to cut the leaders of a fork, which are both over 30". I would love to trade my husky 357xp and some cash for a stihl 460.
Nailsbeats
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yup........., yup.
Ed*L
ArboristSite Guru
There's some good info on long bars & chains here, also links to other long bar threads.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=70304
Ed
ok... it's pretty much accepted full skip for long bars.
but what about choice between 3/8 and 404?
so which is better for long bars?
assuming you've got plenty of power like with 084 or 064.
headed for 3/8 full skip .063, so I can run same chain for both 064 and 084.
would like to buy one roll of 3/8 skip full chisel for both saws, instead of one roll of each size.
but what about choice between 3/8 and 404?
so which is better for long bars?
assuming you've got plenty of power like with 084 or 064.
headed for 3/8 full skip .063, so I can run same chain for both 064 and 084.
would like to buy one roll of 3/8 skip full chisel for both saws, instead of one roll of each size.
Go to 404. The speed freaks will tell you otherwise, but it is more important to work long and steady.
404 lasts longer, breaks less. Tolerates a little more dulling before it quits cutting, as well.
404 lasts longer, breaks less. Tolerates a little more dulling before it quits cutting, as well.
Ed*L
ArboristSite Guru
Depending on how much you will use the 084, just buy loops from Bailey's. There is no real price difference between loops & rolls, only the convience of being able to make a chain when you need it.
Ed
Ed
been rethinking this... don't think I'll be using 084 w/4ft bar much until I get a milling rig.
In Okla. mostly hardwoods, there's not much wood that a 32in bar will not take down.
maybe I should get a few loops of full skip 404 to start out with. durable is more important than speed. already setup with Simington square grinder and a Silvey round grinder.
soooo... square or round grind?
In Okla. mostly hardwoods, there's not much wood that a 32in bar will not take down.
maybe I should get a few loops of full skip 404 to start out with. durable is more important than speed. already setup with Simington square grinder and a Silvey round grinder.
soooo... square or round grind?
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Wolfking42084
ArboristSite Operative
I was wondering what you guys were using also, as far as square of round. What is the average bar you all have on your 084 or 880?
You're leaving out the other saws: not all big saws are made by Stihl.
I imagine that nearly everyone with a big saw has at least two bars of different lengths: medium long for normal use (28"-36"), and a bigger bar for when you really need it (48"-72"). Probably 2 or more chains set up for each bar length.
The only exceptions to that will be the CAD afflicted folks that have a different big saw for every situation.
I imagine that nearly everyone with a big saw has at least two bars of different lengths: medium long for normal use (28"-36"), and a bigger bar for when you really need it (48"-72"). Probably 2 or more chains set up for each bar length.
The only exceptions to that will be the CAD afflicted folks that have a different big saw for every situation.
Wolfking42084
ArboristSite Operative
I don't own a big saw besides a stihl, so what you run on your other brand really is no help to me. no disrespect intended, cause I own husqvarna also. i bought it with a 36" bar but quite often get stuck taking down larger diameter trees. i don't like having to cut from both sides with a smaller bar. I'm just contemplating what length to get and you guys have reassured me that the full skip in the .404 is the way to go.
