Stihl 280 CQS vs. 310 - recommendations?

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Noah

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Stihl 280 CQS vs. 310 - recommendations?

Hi guys,

This is my first post, and I'm sure not my last. I aquired some land and am going to a wood burning stove as primary heat next winter. I'm fed up w/the natural gas company raising the prices all of the time while capping wells around here:angry: .

I've used family saws before, but now I have a reason to buy my first next week. I don't want a consumer saw, because it'll see too much use cutting firewood and need something powerful enough to chunk out sections, (what's the right term?), of some big downed hardwood once in a while (larger than 24"diameter). I've heard mostly good things about Stihls and thought I'd go that route, but am keeping an open mind to other suggestions. I've looked at what the Stihl retailer$ around here have to offer and this is what I'm looking at:

Stihl 280 CQS : 54cc - Is it powerfull enough to chunk out seasoned hardwood?
12.1 Pounds - lighter by around a pound than the 310, but this model is more expensive......Why? Maybe because of the magnesium lower engine case and all of the new features that the 310 doesn't have: The only two that I'm interested in are the quick chain adjustment and the extra anti-kickback grip release feature..... I've seen two guys who look like Dr. Mengella enjoyed doing surgery on their faces.

Stihl 310: 59cc - Is this one got the power to do the job?
13.2 Pounds - I little bit heavy for long firewood cutting jobs, but probably not too much ( allthesame, its hard to believe that the old 044 wasn't much heavier than this). It has the plastic case, but doubt if there will many times when the chance of dropping it will be higher than my shoulders. Pros: Better power and better price makes me lean toward the 310.
Cons: None of the new extras, esp. the grip release brake.

I've read threads about carberator mods, too weak oilers, etc. on other Stihl models, so maybe these have the same problems. Either way, I'm open to suggestions and comments on these and other saws. Please keep in mind I'm looking for 1. safety, 2. year round reliability, 3. enough power for the use, 4. not much heavier. 5. Oh, and compatability of larger chain size important.

Thanks,

Frank
===============
 
You might want to take a look at the Husqvarna 357XP as well or maybe even the 346XP depending on how much wood you'll need to cut.
 
That said the Husky 372XP seems to be a crowd favorite.

The Dolmar 7900 also seems to be developing a following.

For me I would go with the 357XP or 372XP, why because I happen to want one of each... :eek: :D wouldn't mind having a Stihl MS200t either or an 088. Hell maybe even a 3120XP for milling. :p





:blob2: there sure are alot of nice saws out there.
 
Stihl

Man, you gotta jump right in here lately or the competiton will get all the punches in they can!:D

The 280, I like the weight, good power, just not enough of them out with any time on them to tell how they will pan out. If the 270 is any indication, it will be a real nice performing saw.
The 310, big brother of the much maligned 290. Too heavy, consumer type saw. Cannot keep them on the shelf, and reliability has been excellent at this shop so far. Will run 3/8 chain with no problem and a 20 inch bar. If the price is attractive to you, get the 310. If you like less weight, get the 280.
The deciding factor for me would be the 20 inch bar on the 310, that is what makes the sale here.
 
The 361 comes with either QS or non QS, as did the 360.

The 361 has more power, torque, and a better design than the 360.

The mounts on the 270/280 are too soft for heavy-duty use, it is a consumer style saw, make no mistake about it.

If you will be cutting the larger diameter hardwood on a regular basis, go with a 70+ cc saw, like the 372 or the MS-440. I can't say enough about how well the 440 runs straight out of the box, and I've run every model of Stihl and Husky in the woods. The 372 is good too.

If you want a modified saw, go with a Dolmar and have one of our guys build it.
 
Competition :confused: I mentioned saws from three different manufacturers, Jesus you fanboys are tough to please. :D LOL
 
Being that I might be the only one here that owns a 280 I can over rule everyone. I had Dan Henry gut the an open the muffler.
The saw isn't that bad if you were going to cut firewood for one household.

It has some balls and it is more ergonomically better thatn other Stihls I have owned or run. So what do I think, a 357xp with an open muffler will out run it all day but you asked about the 280 and I will keep mine it has a place just like every saw I own.

Rmember Stihls are like sheep they don't like to be left alone.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11606&highlight=280

I have mine setup with a Green Weenie air filter and the saw comes alive once you get rid of the OEM air filter. I run mine with .50 gauge 3/8ths Carlton Square ground and a 16" bar.
 
Hi Noah, "chunking", is not the proper terminology. The word "chunking", must of been coined by an aborist denoting pieces of a trunk that are cut to an undetermined length- not really logs and not really firewood. Chunk lengths are generally determined by how dull the saw is, as in "summerwood"- some are this long and some are that long.
The proper word to use when cutting firewood is "blocking".
Hope this helps,
John
 
John when you use the term blocking, you really mean 'I'm scared'. This is my interperation of why you never come up to see us and educate us further.

Humm, Mono Mills-Avening..., 25 minutes tops. Cold Creemore in the beer fridge?

Must be scared.

Heff
 
I think some good saws for fire wood cuttingare the Stihl 260 (non-fixed Jet Carb) and the 361. For Husky the 353 and 372.
I would go to a few local dealers and try some Saws out. The Stihl "Grip Stop" I found uncomfortable to use. Granted, it adds extra saftey. Also, buy a hard hat and Chainsaw Chaps!

I have an 026 and 440. The 026 is an excellent firewood saw with an 18" bar. It will block 24" wood, but it taked a little longer. If you buy a quality Saw, it should last you a life-time for firewood cutting as long as you maintain it. Keep looking at old posts. There is a ton of good information on this site. If you are interested in buying a saw off the Net , check out Commercial Cutters direct or Bills Saw Shop they have the best pricies. However, if you buy from a local dealer you will pay a little more, but you have built a relationship with them after buying the Saw. That would pay off in the long run for repairs, service and parts. Lastly, if you are used to a stihl 044 70cc saw, anything smaller would pale in comparison like WRW mentioned.Good luck and let us know what you get!
 
Saw for firewood

Noah, got to throw in my two cents here!--I cut about 75 cords of Live Oak & Water Oak wood for firewood every year & this past year I bought my first Husky saw, a 359 with a 20 inch bar. It has been a great saw, not too heavy, lots of power & with a good full chisel chain has performed well on oak logs in the 18-24 inch diameter range max. For the larger oak logs above the 24 inch range I go back to using my McCullogh 1-62 saw with a 30 inch bar, very heavy saw. I would stay away from the older saws because of maintenance issues. My McCullogh is very heavy & slower chain speed but tons of torque & very powerful. All in all I would stick with a newer lighter Husky, Stihl type saw in the 60 cc range like a Husky 55 Rancher or like my saw a Husky 359.
 
Take a hard look at the Dolmar PS540. 54cc heavy duty saw.

On sale with an 18" pro bar & chisel chain for only $299.99
Pro (Commercial) Warranty is One (1) year.
Two (2) years Non Commercial.
Two stage air filtration.
"Eco Logic" oil system.
Heavy duty three (3) shoe full circle clutch, with floating rim set up.

Doesn't just work, IT LAST'S.
 
I appreciate all of the recommendations. After budgeting and expenses going up so much, it looks like I'm going to have to keep my choices under $500 until sometime next winter.

BTW, I wasn't clear, but I can certainly live w/something less than a Stihl 044. I'm checking out all of the models listed and w/the new restriction, am open to new options.

THANKS!
 
If the 361 is anything like the 036/360 it'll be one hell of a saw! I've had two 036's and still have one of them, very reliable and smooth. Only thing I don't like about 036's is the @@#$ plastic handle bar but the solution to that is to find a metal one off of an 034 and just get rid of the plastic one;)
 
Noah,
Like Russ said, go for 60, or thereabouts, cc's. If you buy from a local dealer, ask about the value of trade-in towards your next purchase, should you want to move up to the larger powerhead at a later date. Plan ahead.
 
Have used a 310 for a little over two years. GREAT SAW! Little heavy but great saw. It is a big homeowner saw. Not like the saws you see at Sears. I run with a 18 inch bar and RS chain. Works in anything I point it at.

As you can see below, I have three saws now. All three have their place and get used regularly.

I really think that Stihl is the better saw. There is a lot of debate about that but my experience tells me that.

Hal
 
Originally posted by Gypo Logger
Hi Noah, "chunking", is not the proper terminology. The word "chunking", must of been coined by an aborist denoting pieces of a trunk that are cut to an undetermined length- not really logs and not really firewood. John

In my arborist circle, chunking refers to chunks of a spar, still standing, cut and dropped, or roped, to the ground.
This is usually done because some obsticile prevents dropping the whole spar. The length of the chunks is usually some increment of 16", either 16", 32", 48" and so on. Unless somebody else is dealing with the mess, then you put all the brush, cris-cross on the bottom and drop all the logs, cut to uneven lengths, on top.
 

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