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The benefits of the .404 like channeling more lube for your bar make it the right choice. That's a big saw .404 is a big chain. Here is some info
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?threads/148327/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?threads/148327/
Well I've milled logs 130+ logs with 3/8" chain on an 076 and 880, and about 5 with 404. Every time I used 404 I went back to the 3/8". There's not a lot of difference in the kerf but it just seemed a little easier on the saw
Thanks for the input, I would like to run the 3/8" chain. I'm new to this so I'm a little confused as to what bar specs and 3/8" chain specs I need to purchase for the 880? According to Stihl I can't run 3/8 on their stock 41" bar that comes with the saw. I appreciate the feedback!
That's correct the 41" bar will have a nose sprocket that is designed to fit a 404 pitch chain and you cannot run 3/8 on that.
It sounds to me like your dealer is too lazy to swap the 404 drive sprocket and bar over to suit 3/8.
That's why I set myself up with roller (no teeth - just a roller) nose bars as they allow use of either 3/8 or 404 pitch chain as long as they have the the same gauge. My 60" Stihl bar came with a replaceable nose so I bought a GB replacement roller nose and made an adapter plate that mates the nose to the bar. The socket screws lose a bit of cut - I will eventually replace them with counter sunk screws.
These roller nose bars are now very hard to get hold of - I see there is a replacement GB harvester nose on eBay but it's priced at $75!
It sounds to me like your dealer is too lazy to swap the 404 drive sprocket and bar over to suit 3/8.
That's why I set myself up with roller (no teeth - just a roller) nose bars as they allow use of either 3/8 or 404 pitch chain as long as they have the the same gauge. My 60" Stihl bar came with a replaceable nose so I bought a GB replacement roller nose and made an adapter plate that mates the nose to the bar. The socket screws lose a bit of cut - I will eventually replace them with counter sunk screws.
These roller nose bars are now very hard to get hold of - I see there is a replacement GB harvester nose on eBay but it's priced at $75!
I actually emailed stihl and asked if 3/8 would work on their 41" bar, but I think I understand now. I was confused on how people we're able to run the 3/8 on longer bars. I will look into replacing drive sprocket, and keep the .063 gauge the same. Would a 7 tooth sprocket be better for 3/8"? I really appreciate the feedback BobL, I admit I am a newbie to this stuff, but I milled one tree with my 391 and I'm hooked! I now see that I need more power and a longer bar as well if I'm going to keep milling.
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ideally you need both.
The following is for storing away and dragging out once you have milled a dozen or do logs.
There no single chain setup and drive sprocket that optimises cutting speed for all log sizes and timber species.
The main variable on a chain is the raker depth, on a smaller log and set woods you want deeper rakers, and vice versa.
But when switching from wider/harder logs to narrower after woods you can't exactly put metal back onto the rakers - all you can do is unnecessarily remove metal from the cutters.
However, if you are running a 7 pin and have a bunch of smaller/softer logs then using an 8 pin will speed things up and vice versa.
In your softer woods, with a big saw in narrow wood there's there's probably even a good reason to run 9 pin.
The reason that is said; Drive sprocket on saw must match nose sprocket on bar, gauge of drive links must match groove in bar. What came from factory matches .404 .063 chain IIRC. To convert to 3/8 takes replacements for all three pieces. I recomend .063 gauge chain if you convert for better oil carry down the bar. I like cannon brand for my longer bars since they flex less in my experience. My 42" is an oregon tho.
Mill safely & enjoy
Wes you have the right info and yes it will be a challenge to convert to a 3/8. A few years ago you could just pick up the phone and order all the stuff you needed to make the switch now the above items are not easily available. The last time I did this it took two bars so the roller tip could be installed on a large mount bar. If you shop around you should be able to find a 22 mm rim and drum for a 404. Then discard the 404 and buy a 22 mm rim for 3/8. There are not many choices as far as 7T, 8T, or 9T. Thanks
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
When you figure your time & the cost of what all it take to convert, you've spent the difference.
Buy this bar & be done with it.
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
Are you going to be Milling, or using the Saw to fell?
Good choice if you have the funds. An Oregon as I have can be had for less with the 3/8" sprocket tip, don't remember where I got it tho. Then is just getting the drive sprocket. A savings if you like, a very stiff bar for a bit more if cannon is your choice. Unless a sprocket tip replacement is available AM Bailey's or left coast come to mind for both the ends, drive & end of bar, for sprocket replacement.
Mill safe & enjoy
