WayneOhio1
ArboristSite Lurker
Hey guys give me your oppion on the better saw? The 361 has a slightly smaller eng But more Hp what do you feel about the 390 ?
Stihl 361 vs 390
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timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
390 is junk compaired to the 361. However the 390 will cut years worth of fire wood for a good be less initial investment, if thats all your after.
WayneOhio1
ArboristSite Lurker
Thank you timber you saved me alot of money thank you i wont buy the 390 i dont want to spend $600 so i may just buy the Husky 359
The 390 is an 029/290 with a bigger cylinder and piston. They are a large bodied saw, with a plastic chassis, intended to be sold for a lower price, while offering homeowners and firewood cutters a larger, reasonable quality saw, without the higher price tag of a pro saw. Complaints on this series is the weight, the construction style, somewhat weaker power output, poorer antivibe, and crappier air filtration.
The 361 is a professional saw that is constructed much more robustly, weighs less, has higher power output, better antivibe, better air filtration, and is designed for harder service and longer use before requiring a rebuild. The cost is higher, because you are buying a professional saw, instead of a homeowner saw. It will last longer, and the price difference is not huge, to enjoy the benefits of the 361 over the 390.
Ultimately you have to decide if a good saw will do, or if a significantly better saw will do the job you have for it better. You can have the better saw and enjoy it, or have the decent saw and have saved some money instead. The more you intend to use it and the longer you want it to last, the better the choice is to pop for the 361.
The 361 is a professional saw that is constructed much more robustly, weighs less, has higher power output, better antivibe, better air filtration, and is designed for harder service and longer use before requiring a rebuild. The cost is higher, because you are buying a professional saw, instead of a homeowner saw. It will last longer, and the price difference is not huge, to enjoy the benefits of the 361 over the 390.
Ultimately you have to decide if a good saw will do, or if a significantly better saw will do the job you have for it better. You can have the better saw and enjoy it, or have the decent saw and have saved some money instead. The more you intend to use it and the longer you want it to last, the better the choice is to pop for the 361.
WayneOhio1
ArboristSite Lurker
Timber that was well put. You know what your talking about Me i'm just a homeowner i cut for firewood and fun. I have a Husky 141 and a 55 Rancher But i like having nice things. I think i should think along the lines of a Husky 359 unless i find the golden buy for a 361 on e bay.
LOL!
The 390 is a POS and the 361 is not. I own a 390(dead in the water) and had, but sold a 361.
minkota1
ArboristSite Operative
I never have had a 361, but I have owned both the 390 and 359. The 361 is real well spoken of so it must be a dandy saw. the 390 is a heavy homeowner saw, cut pretty good, but awfult full of plastic. I bought a 359 (etech) modded the muffler and it's a great saw, liked it so much that when I got a good deal, I bought a second one. You won't go wrong with a 359
dustytools
Addicted to ArboristSite
The 390 is in more than one flavor now, is it not?:biggrinbounce2:
fishhuntcutwood
Full wraps and long bars!!!!!!!!!
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Great post. The 361 smacks the 390 in every way....but not everyone needs a 361. Comes down to what you need, and what you can spend.
Get the best saw you can afford, and you'll never be sorry or regret. Get the 390 when you can afford the 361, and you'll be selling the 390 and trading up in short order.
Jeff
SawTroll
Information Collector
Good plan, but keep in mind that the 359 has less power than the MS361, and an outboard clutch. It is a bit heavier than the 361, but lighter than the MS290/310/390.
This makes it a bit less versatile than the MS361.
timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Muffler moddifed they are close, or when ported the 359 is right with a ported 361.
I realy dislike the outboard clutch, but run an 8 pin 3/8 on a changed out large spline drum which makes it a pain to change chains. The 359 E-tech muffle is a problem as mentioned above, but once that is looked after it is a fine saw. There is lots to be had on the porting, as saws go it is one of the easiest to port.
Take the discount from the 359 over the 361, use it towards a port job, and you will have a great cutting machiene.
Brotherinlaw has a 390, it looks and sounds very silly cutting side by side with my 359.
I realy dislike the outboard clutch, but run an 8 pin 3/8 on a changed out large spline drum which makes it a pain to change chains. The 359 E-tech muffle is a problem as mentioned above, but once that is looked after it is a fine saw. There is lots to be had on the porting, as saws go it is one of the easiest to port.
Take the discount from the 359 over the 361, use it towards a port job, and you will have a great cutting machiene.
Brotherinlaw has a 390, it looks and sounds very silly cutting side by side with my 359.
blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
:bang: :bang: :bang: :bang: :bang: :bang:
Its not a pain to change chains on saw with outboard clutch, you just need a bit of technique....
It is compared to an inboard clutch, where special technique is not required.
Exactly! The outboard clutch is a POS, antiquated design. And I really like Husky saws.
Flying a helicopter is easy with a little technique also.
timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Blis, We have been through this before, have you tried to put a 16 inch bar and chain on with an 8 pin driver? Remember saw comes with a 7 and small spline drum that they don't make an 8 for.
I have done it a hundred times or more, I know the trick, it involves geting the chain on the bar then aligning the heal of the bar in one of the recesses in the rim and rotating the bar into position while rotating the rim.
Tired of b!tching about it, going to cut a 1/4 off the bar.
On the up side the outboard clutch does move the chain closer to the center of the saw and helps keep the profile narrow.
I have done it a hundred times or more, I know the trick, it involves geting the chain on the bar then aligning the heal of the bar in one of the recesses in the rim and rotating the bar into position while rotating the rim.
Tired of b!tching about it, going to cut a 1/4 off the bar.
On the up side the outboard clutch does move the chain closer to the center of the saw and helps keep the profile narrow.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Yep, it is a tradeoff, and the outboard clutch/slimmer saw makes sense for a small limbing saw, but not for other applications, imo......
blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
Blis, We have been through this before, have you tried to put a 16 inch bar and chain on with an 8 pin driver? Remember saw comes with a 7 and small spline drum that they don't make an 8 for.
I have done it a hundred times or more, I know the trick, it involves geting the chain on the bar then aligning the heal of the bar in one of the recesses in the rim and rotating the bar into position while rotating the rim.
Tired of b!tching about it, going to cut a 1/4 off the bar.
On the up side the outboard clutch does move the chain closer to the center of the saw and helps keep the profile narrow.
hmmmm, you must be doing it wrong.... First put the chain on sprocket and make sure it alings nicely, then put the bar on its place but keep the bar lifted at around ~40 degree angle then set the chain over nose sprocket, lower it down and pull it few times to get chain seated on bar grooves...
