Copper cooling plates.

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I think most are designed to keep the heat from the muffler away from the cylinder or why would the rize up behind the muffler like one the 390xp I just put on and possably keep the air driven up more directed to the cylinder itself, just a thought.
The idea is they channel the air coming from the flywheel through the cooling fins on the cylinder behind the muffler and then out the chain cover side of the saw. Atleast that's what mine do, and they do it well.
 
copper and aluminum both corrode under said circumstances.
In a galvanic cell (i.e., with both metals submersed in an electrolyte), the aluminum (anodic) will disappear, and FAST. The (cathodic) copper won't.

Vibration will work-harden the copper, and heating it will anneal it, but IIRC you need to get it up around 700°F to anneal it, and if your saw runs that hot, you've got bigger fish to fry...
 
In a galvanic cell (i.e., with both metals submersed in an electrolyte), the aluminum (anodic) will disappear, and FAST. The (cathodic) copper won't.

Vibration will work-harden the copper, and heating it will anneal it, but IIRC you need to get it up around 700°F to anneal it, and if your saw runs that hot, you've got bigger fish to fry...
I am not an expert by any means when it comes to metal, that's why I shared to see what more educated individuals could tell me. And no, that saw didn't and doesn't get that hot ever.
 
A bit of a marketing ploy I think. The stock plate is good enough for directing airflow and keeping the saw cool. As far as being dirty goes, that little bit of fine dust is nothing. You can accumulate that much in half an hour sawing through some logs with dry rot . I have worked on absolutely filthy saws that have seen years of use with used motor oil, and I refuse to touch these anymore unless the owner cleans them up first.
My own saws usually get cleaned at the end of the season with the blow gun, and this is enough to keep them running cool.
 
A bit of a marketing ploy I think. The stock plate is good enough for directing airflow and keeping the saw cool. As far as being dirty goes, that little bit of fine dust is nothing. You can accumulate that much in half an hour sawing through some logs with dry rot . I have worked on absolutely filthy saws that have seen years of use with used motor oil, and I refuse to touch these anymore unless the owner cleans them up first.
My own saws usually get cleaned at the end of the season with the blow gun, and this is enough to keep them running cool.
I agree. That saw is clean by most standards.
If course not an old dude with too much time on his hands.
 
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