Stihl 880 will not start!!!

[Gary1D]

Hello chainsaw enthusiasts,
I'm new here but not new to chainsaws. I'm 69 years old and still cutting. Back in the 80s I used two Stihl 090 power heads on an Alaskan mill and did a lot of sawing. Recently I invested in two Stihl MS780 saws which is the same as the 880 US model. I'm in West Africa. But I've had so much trouble starting these ******* saws. Brand new I started both when I unboxed them. Next day, one would start and the other wouldn't. In time, the first one that started wouldn't start, but I got the second one to start. After sawing some trees and leaving it for a couple months, now both saws won't start.
If I shoot gas down the carburetor throat, they run for a couple seconds then die. At one point I even replaced a carburetor, but it still didn't matter. I've made sure the tank vents are good, but really these are new saws.
Anyone else here have any similar issues and what you did to get past this? Any help will be appreciated since this has caused me a lot of wasted time and frustration. In all the years I've used the Stihl 090, I never had an issue starting them. There is something wrong with this machine.
Thanks guys,
Gary

 

[user 122190]

When I had my 880 I found it to flood very fast and easily. When starting cold, don't wait for it to pop. Give it one or two cord pulls on full-choke, and whether it pops or not move it to run quick mode and pull til it starts. YMMV.

 

[Gary1D]

When I had my 880 I found it to flood very fast and easily. When starting cold, don't wait for it to pop. Give it one or two cord pulls on full-choke, and whether it pops or not move it to run quick mode and pull til it starts. YMMV.

Thanks MontanaResident! I also have a Stihl MS 651 which starts fine. I have used the technique you mention sometimes on any of my saws, but I will take special note to only pull 1 or 2 strokes when starting cold. I won't be able to try until I return to my forest home in Liberia.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I had to start one yesterday in the shop a couple of times. I am 69 as well and it's about all I can do to start one.

Anyway, if it is running until it runs out all the fuel you squirt in it is not flooded.

Sometimes if a saw has been sitting a long time and the fuel line and carb are mostly empty you may have to squirt fuel in 2 or 3 times for the saw to pick it up.

But, as long as it runs that squirt until it runs out it is not flooded.

 

[Gary1D]

Thanks ZeroJunk!
I thought the same thing about the flooding. If it were flooded, the gas down the carburetor throat would not fire up briefly. It's definitely not getting gas. Maybe the needle valve in the carburetor gets stuck on these things. I have two of these that I bought at the same time and both from the get go have been a problem. Once you get them running, they start up and work fine. It always happens when the saw has been sitting for a couple months. I've also done my best to get fresh gas and stabilize it. I'm also adding Octane Booster, since we can't buy anything besides regular gasoline here. But the regular gas works fine in my Stihl MS 651 saw. The user manual does call for high octane gas. Again, once you get them running, no problem starting and running from day to day. It's only when you leave them for a month plus.

 

[bulletpruf]

Very interesting. Let us know what you figure out.

 

[OFFSHORE64]

Oh my GOD they flood. 1.1 nanoseconds before it starts, disengaged choke. 1 hapless pull AFTER it's time and it's gonna be awhile. Go to breakfast.
But yeah, could be octane/volatility issues. It may only start with gas down carb with everything working properly and fuel corrupted/low or high octane.

 

[Gary1D]

Thanks Offshore64,
I never knew the flooding part before. I may have to do a special start procedure anytime the saws sit for a while. Like I said, once they are working I don't have an issue starting from day to day. But I'm really leaning for something in the carburetor that is sticking like the needle valve when they sit for a month. I've actually ordered a set of Stihl special tools so I can test the vacuum and pressure of the fuel tank, crankcase, and the carburetor. I live in such a remote place that it can take days over treacherous terrain to get to the city. And even there, they don't have anyone who can specialize in the repairs of these new models.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I've had the same problem with my Homelite 1050. Once primed and run, it starts fine until it sits for a month or so. I don't run it much so I just prime it.

 

[Gary1D]

Thanks Buzz,
I'm thinking I got to work something out like that. I will certainly try to prime it first and then start with the air filter on. But it would sure be helpful to really understand the issue and then take appropriate action.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Tillotson came out with an improved needle and arm years ago. the arm has a fork the fits into a slot on top of the needle - like it can lift he needle off the seat instead of fuel pressure. Hasn't helped the 1050 any.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I'm still thinking I would squirt a dose of mix down the carb at least three or four times before I start taking anything apart.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Not all octane boosters are safe for 2 strokes, some strip the oil off the surfaces.
I can't even begin to imagine how difficult it might be for you to get parts ? But if you can get you hands on a husqvarna decomp button aka 372xp or similar Jonsered , they bleed off pressure alot more effectively. That might help your shoulder. Having a better decomp you can cycle the motor over 5-6 times slowly on full choke which helps to prime the fuel system alittle.
Time your starting point with the piston! Roll over the piston just past TDC then pull the handle like a winning lottery ticket is gonna come out.
I store my saws with the decomp buttons pushed in, with the wild swings in temperature I want the cylinder open.
I hope this helps, if you still have lean conditions the carburetors are easy to adjust and disassemble.

 

[Gary1D]

Not all octane boosters are safe for 2 strokes, some strip the oil off the surfaces.
I can't even begin to imagine how difficult it might be for you to get parts ? But if you can get you hands on a husqvarna decomp button aka 372xp or similar Jonsered , they bleed off pressure alot more effectively. That might help your shoulder. Having a better decomp you can cycle the motor over 5-6 times slowly on full choke which helps to prime the fuel system alittle.
Time your starting point with the piston! Roll over the piston just past TDC then pull the handle like a winning lottery ticket is gonna come out.
I store my saws with the decomp buttons pushed in, with the wild swings in temperature I want the cylinder open.
I hope this helps, if you still have lean conditions the carburetors are easy to adjust and disassemble.

Thanks Supervisor for the heads up on the octane booster. Hadn't heard that. Even the Stihl dealer in the capital city here recommended the octane booster, since we cannot get the high-octane gas that the user manual recommends in this country. Only the regular gas.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Octane boosters slow the burn rate to reduce/eliminate pre-ignition. What octane does the manual recommend?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Most of the octane boosters that will destroy a 2 stroke have a warning or" 4 stroke only "sticker, you can always email the manufacturer if uncertain.
Usually the race not for street use stuff is good.

 

[lone wolf]

Thanks Buzz,
I'm thinking I got to work something out like that. I will certainly try to prime it first and then start with the air filter on. But it would sure be helpful to really understand the issue and then take appropriate action.

What does the plug look like is it fouled?

 

[Mike Kunte]

Hey, Gary!

The biggest problem for any 2-stroke is old fuel. Not that which you mix fresh, but that which remains in the carburettor after running. If it sits for a month or longer, you can be sure that the volatile part (the fuel itself) has evaporated, which leaves only the thicker 2-stroke oil behind. This residue becomes sticky and gums up the insides of your carb.
As a rule, each time I put my saws away for longer than 2 weeks, I will religiously empty the tanks and then run the saws dry. When they stop, I choke them and run them again. Sometimes I can get them to start 3 or 4 times "after" empty. (It is this residual fuel which is normally left behind in the carb).

You mentioned that once they are running they are fine. This is consistent with "gummed up" carburettors, which, when warm, allow the gummy goo to be dissolved and flushed out.

Maybe you could try this method too?

Hope this helps!

Mike
P.S. Stihl recommends not using any fuel older than 6 weeks from the date of mixing. No part of the fuel may be older than 6 weeks, since the lubricating properties are severely reduced.

 

[KASH]

All saws have their own personalities some will start in the usual 3 or so pulls if sitting for long periods of time not being used others you have to pull untill they suck up gas to fill carb which is lots of pulling.When I go to start a saw that has been idle for a while I squirt mix in the carb one or two pulls and off to work we go no guess work involved.
Kash

 

[Gary1D]

What does the plug look like is it fouled?

No. The plug is not fouled. You can squirt a little gas down the carburetor throat and she'll start for a second or two until the gas squirt runs out. It just doesn't get gas through the carburetor at all.