Stihl Compression release?

[TooSoonOld]

It could also be ignition firing too early and trying to fire backwards. To rule this out try pulling it with the ignition switch off. If it pulls fine with the switch off start looking at the ignition.

Problem identified! I took it to the shop and the tech started it with one pull. I guess I’m just too old to pull a starter rope hard enough. Maybe it’s time to give up on wood heat and buy a furnace. Thanks for your help.

 

[stihltech]

As to you question on the Bing lever. No, not an issue. Only the Tillotson with the plate.
If you find a good Bing, never lose it.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Problem identified! I took it to the shop and the tech started it with one pull. I guess I’m just too old to pull a starter rope hard enough. Maybe it’s time to give up on wood heat and buy a furnace. Thanks for your help.

I have to tell people that occasionally . I'm 71 and see it coming.

 

[ammoaddict]

I have to tell people that occasionally . I'm 71 and see it coming.

Almost 62 and man I'm feeling it. All this arthritis is no joke. Constant pain. I'm about 25% of the man I used to be.

 

[billyboy]

I have a 036 that I cant start if it sets a week. Cleaned carb at least three or more times. Tried setting the pump lever at different heights from the .012 below the top spec. It doesn’t pop like my other saws when on choke. Can’t turn it over without compression release and then it goes to vapor or flood lock. Some times a squirt of fuel in the carb works for me. Real pain to pull spark plug to see if it’s flooded. I’m 75, 12 years out from leukemia , arthritis kicking my but and I have the stamina of a two year old. Got a couple years of wood left and I’m basicly done with wood. Got some other good saws that don’t trouble me as much but sure wish my 036 was up to snough. Get it warmed up and it’s a one pull restart and kicks butt.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Rebuilding the carb will do you no good unless you can polish the needle seat in the carb, the needle seats get rough and just replacing the needle valve will not stop the fuel seepage that locks up many of these saws since ethanol has ruined so many fuel related parts in chainsaws. A new OEM carb will fix this issue at least for a while.

 

[Mad Professor]

Rebuilding the carb will do you no good unless you can polish the needle seat in the carb, the needle seats get rough and just replacing the needle valve will not stop the fuel seepage that locks up many of these saws since ethanol has ruined so many fuel related parts in chainsaws. A new OEM carb will fix this issue at least for a while.

Related question. Have you had polishing the seats?

I thought about it and maybe some valve lapping compound on a q-tip pr pipe cleaner, or homemade wooden "needle"?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Related question. Have you had polishing the seats?

I thought about it and maybe some valve lapping compound on a q-tip pr pipe cleaner, or homemade wooden "needle"?

Done it many times, even tooth paste has worked, I use one of the larger tooth picks now commonly available its tapered end cleans the seat the best I have found, been doing this for more than 10 years and saved many carbs doing so. Just to add, the toothpicks are .150 dia and have a nicely tapered end that fits the needle seat quite nicely.

 

[billyboy]

Thanks for the tip pioneerguy . I have used a bamboo skewer on other carbs to polish the needle seat. Never thought to try it on this saw. Was rebuilt maybe 6 years ago with Hyway & Meteor cyl/piston. The carb diaphragm and all looked good. New oem fuel,impulse, and filter. Never run e fuel but prior owner may have. It was an auction buy. Have 175 psi and I can’t pull it over without compression release. If I go out and start it up the next day after having run it, it takes a few pulls on choke, switch to high idle, a few more pulls and it runs.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks for the tip pioneerguy . I have used a bamboo skewer on other carbs to polish the needle seat. Never thought to try it on this saw. Was rebuilt maybe 6 years ago with Hyway & Meteor cyl/piston. The carb diaphragm and all looked good. New oem fuel,impulse, and filter. Never run e fuel but prior owner may have. It was an auction buy. Have 175 psi and I can’t pull it over without compression release. If I go out and start it up the next day after having run it, it takes a few pulls on choke, switch to high idle, a few more pulls and it runs.

As I have said/posted, rebuilding a carb does not address the issue of fuel seepage past the needle, it does not have to flood the saw but it creates a tremendous amount of pressure/compression in the cylinder that the recoil cannot overcome. Removing the sparkplug and pulling the engine over several times, put the plug back in and most times the saw starts as normal.

 

[Gord404]

i'm 72 - few back problems now and then and ya feel a bit of dry rot setting in but got to know my limitatoins.

 

[Mad Professor]

Done it many times, even tooth paste has worked, I use one of the larger tooth pics now commonly available its tapered end cleans the seat the best I have found, been doing this for more than 10 years and saved many carbs doing so. Just to add, the toothpicks are .150 dia and have a nicely tapered end that fits the needle seat quite nicely.

Now I need toothpicks in the saw tool box........thanks!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Now I need toothpicks in the saw tool box........thanks!

Even worse a split open tube of toothpaste in the toolbox.