Stihl MS 200T Troubles

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Nicholas

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Messages
118
Reaction score
16
Location
Pulaski, Wisconsin
Well guys I ran into a good one today. A gentleman, who is also a local chainsaw carver brought in his Stihl ms 200T to have looked at....again. This gentleman must have brought that saw in at least a dozen times. No one can seem to figure out why it starts so extremely hard, cold blooded, and starves for fuel/loses prime a w.o.t.

Our lead mechcanic who recently certified to Stihl's gold level put that saw through just about every test in the book, compression tests, pressure tests, vacuum tests, etc, and the saw checks out fine. He tried cleaning the carb body and installing a carb kit in it, new fuel pick body, removed the limiter caps, tried adjusting the saw, and still can't get it to run quite right. He got frustrated with it and passed it off to me to look at it.

Well, I when I looked at it, I couldn't get the thing to even pop. Pull and pull and pull, until your arm is ready to fall off. So I reset the carb settings to 1 1/4 turns out from the needles lightly seated. Finally got the thing to start, tuned in the idle and low speed needle. The saw seemed to accelerate and return to idle decent. Then I proceded to tune in the high needle, rev the saw to w.o.t. touch the needle with the screw driver and the thing just dies. Start it up again, rev to w.o.t. starve for fuel and dies. I brought back into the shop, disassembled the carb to find everything was fine exept the inlet needle lever was set too low. I reset the inlet needle lever, reassembled, and reset the carb setting to 1 1/4 turns out from lightly seated needles. Restarted in 2 pulls, tuned in the idle, and low needle. Now the saw accelerates and returns to idle nice. Now I go back to the high speed needle. The will rev and hold w.o.t. for 5 sec starve for fuel and die. so I open the H needle another 1/4 turn and restart. Now the saw revs to w.o.t. for 8 sec and starves for fuel and dies. So I restarted held the saw a w.o.t. and kept turning the H needle open until the saw kinda quit starving for fuel. But that point was about 2-2 1/4 turn out from a lightly seated needle, and the saw would sort of blubber along at 7,500rpm w/little or no exhaust smoke. Any leaner and the saw would immediately starve for fuel and die.

I also found the saw would idle fine when tipped/turned right, left, nose up, nose down, but would die if turned upside down. One other thing I found is the crankshaft seem to have a significant amount of side to side end play, as well as a small amount of radial play.

Okay, here's what I am thinking. In order for this behavior to occur there must be an air leak and or fuel delivery issue somewhere. I was thinking a cracked rubber carb manifold/boot, loose manifold clamp, cracked/broken/disconnected/rotted impulse hose, cracked fuel line. Possibly, a cracked crankcase, leaky cylinder base gasket, loose cylinder base screws, crank seals (But if that was the case it would not have passed the vacuum/pressure tests.)

This saw has me absolutly puzzled. If anyone has any advise, ideas, or information please post it. I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Nick
 
If your carb is a C1Q S61, S61A or S61B, your accelarator pump has almost certainly trashed the pump body. It's NOT repairable. Try a NEW carb, S61F is the latest...

Kinked impulse line where is goes though the case is another thing to check - just drill out the square plastic hole to 1/4 inch round and put a new line in.

Significant Axial play on the crank is perfectly normal - it's a roller bearing systen; not deep groove.
 
Last edited:
Monday, when I return to the shop/work. If we have new tank vent on the shelf, I will pop one in to see if that solves the problem.

Thanks,

Nick
 
Thanks Lakeside for the info. I will also look into carb on Monday. But, I am almost certain it is one of those you have mentioned.

Nick
 
Last edited:
Will the accelerator pump cause the saw to act like the low speed circuit is plugged?

I used compressed air awhile back to clean the carb for a rebuild kit and even though it seemed to run ok it was really hard to tune the low speed needle. When I got ready to use it a few days ago it really started acting up. Cold start on choke and die. Start in hot start position and it runs fine at that rpm or more. Let it drop back to idle and it runs about 10 seconds and dies. If I try to bump the throttle during that 10 second running time it bogs and dies. I really think I probably screwed it up on the first rebuild. Either that, or the low speed circuit is plugged up. BTW, I didn't pull the welsh plug. Would that give me access to view/clean the low speed curcuit? :bang:

Can anyone explain how the accelerator pump works on this model carb and how it acts when it's screwd up?
 
I've had all kinds of crazy **** happen to my 200t's....The tank vent likes to get clogged up on those saws for some reason.
 
I did a fairly complete spring cleaning a few months ago. New impulse hose (drilled the case), new intake boot, cleaned and opened up the muffler a little, new rings, new tank vent and umbrella. Also pressure tested the fuel line and vacuum tested it with a mityvac to make sure the vent was working. I tried to replace/rebuild everything (except seals) that might give problems later on hoping I wouldn't have to wrench on it for quite awhile.

Even pulled the carb back apart and checked the metering lever height. Run it back thru the ultrasonic cleaner for peace of mind.
 
Last edited:
Can anyone explain how the accelerator pump works on this model carb and how it acts when it's screwd up?[/QUOTE]

Andy is probably right, the acel pump is bad. This will cause an internal air leak in the carb that will make it untuneable (is that a word?). I think what happens is that dirt/debris gets into the bore hole for the pump, and works its way around the throttle shaft and causes the plunger and the bore to start getting scored, which then takes out the o-ring. On the FS 100 trimmer, there is a screen, actually the same one as on the fuel pump side, that is in the bore hole to keep trash out. You might want to put one in the new carb when you replace it. The pump works by stroking forward every time the throttle is opened, and a carver is always blipping the throttle open and closed so that may increase the wear factor. It doesn't actually squirt fuel like in a car carb, it just pushes a little fuel out the main discharge nozzle and it sucks some fuel back in when the throttle is released, so it is ready for the next time the throttle is opened. There is an easy way to check it on a purge primer carb, and your Gold tech knows how to do it, but non purge carbs aren't as easy. If you want to know for sure, take out the inlet needle, put the metering side back together, then take out the fuel pump diaphragm, and put the cover and gasket back on. Spray some soapy water or spray lube in the acel pump bore and hook up your vacuum tester hand pump, and gently pull a vacuum on the fuel inlet fitting. If the o-ring is bad you will see the liquid get sucked in around the throttle shaft. With the needle and diaphragm out, the vacuum can get to the metering chamber and pull against the circuit that leads to the acel pump bore.
HTH
 
Thanks for the comments and help, I rep'd the ones I could (sorry Lake, out of bullets :) ).

As soon as I'm able to locate a carb I'll report back with the results. Anybody know the ballpark $$ of a new one? or better yet, have a good used one you want to part with?
 
Last edited:
A member of this site was having problems with a new MS-200T and it turned out the carb body had a crank in it. The crack wasn't visible to the naked eye but would open up after the saw warmed up and caused an air leak. The most common problem I see on 020Ts and MS-200Ts is cracks in the intake boot because it flexes a lot on those models.
 
A member of this site was having problems with a new MS-200T and it turned out the carb body had a crank in it. The crack wasn't visible to the naked eye but would open up after the saw warmed up and caused an air leak. The most common problem I see on 020Ts and MS-200Ts is cracks in the intake boot because it flexes a lot on those models.


When I did the cleanup on it a few months ago I replaced the boot, the old one was getting a little stiff and I was afraid of upcoming air leaks.

I suspect this carb will have a crack or two in it if it fails the test Stihl #1 described above.
 
carb cracks would be very rare.. worn accelarator pump body is very common in the early versions. The best verfication is to simply swap the carb with a known-to-be-good carb. I keep a new carb in a box for this very reason.
 
Last edited:
Bad crank seals could cause it to suck air...especially if the crank has a bit of runout do to a mis-seated bearing. I'm just throwing out ideas...if you pressure test the crankcase and it's coming up ok....maybe test at a higher pressure to see if the seals are "opening up" so to speak. I'm probably way off...but I had a dirt bike that was acting goofy similar to your saw because of crankseals. Good luck!!
 
Just a quick update on the status of the ms 200T troubles. After speaking with our lead mechcanic today I found out he replaced the tank vent, fuel line, ignition module, spark plug, fuel pick up body, and replaced the original carburator w/a C1Q-S61D. The parts were replaced over the course of several service orders. As I mentioned before he also performed a whole host of tests, and went through the STIHL troubleshooting checklist sheets 3 times. The saw tested out fine all 3 times for him. Meawhile the customer continued to have trouble. Myself and another member of our small engine dept even I had trouble with it last Saturday.

Now the customer has ordered us to remove his Cannon carving bar, 1/4" pitch chain sprocket and oiler gear; and to install a new STIHL bar, new 3/8" Picco chain, sprocket, oiler gear, and clean it up so he can sell/ebay it. That's all fine and dandy. But, what frustrates me is I would really like to find out what is causing the saw to behave like this. There must be something that was over looked. Cracked/disconnected impulse hose, cracked rubber intake manifold, loose manifold clamp, or something. I just wish I could tear into it and figure it out. Even if it was just for the learning experience if nothing else. But I don't want to cost the customer any more money than he already has stuck in it. I might not ever find out what's wrong with the saw.

Well anyway, Thank You everyone for you informative posts. I really appreciate it.

Nick.
 
Back
Top