Stihl MS 261 C-M Will Not Start

[Motorhead⚡️]

Could be a solenoid issue…all the Stihl M-tronic saws require a solenoid, fuel filter, then software reset from time to time to keep them happy. The fine screens in the solenoid and fuel filter can get plugged up with fuel contaminants etc pretty easy it seems. We switch them out often at work and it makes a huge difference… new solenoid, new fuel filter, and then do a reset for your M-tronic software version. It’ll tell you what software version you have on the label attached to your hand guard... or sometimes chain brake handle. There’s a few different resets depending on the age of the saw. We swapped all our white solenoids and fuel filters out for orange ones and it’s been nite and day. It’s pretty basic and there’s some great content online to help out. Best of luck!

 

[stihltech]

Are we going to look at the piston, diagnose, or just throw parts at it?

 

[ZeroJunk]

Are we going to look at the piston, diagnose, or just throw parts at it?

Good point. I pull so many different saws so many times a week I can usually tell from the sound of the thump, or somewhere in the first pull of the rope if compression is off.
So, guess I fail to consider that.

 

[coffeebrk]

Are we going to look at the piston, diagnose, or just throw parts at it?

Throw parts? Heck no.....parts cannon!!!
But always check the piston first. I'm surprised the OP didn't, oh well ugh.

 

[thclimer]

Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate everyone's advice.

I think at this point I’m headed to a dealer with the saw. The dealer who I bought the saw from is no longer in business so it will be the next closest.

It is a little concerning that it went from running perfect to just dead, but I guess that’s electronics for you.

I wonder if they would be able to give me a estimate on the repairs as if its going to be much over $200 I’d almost be looking at buying a new saw.

What does a new 261 cost?

I didn’t know this when I bought the saw but I’ve seen mention that there is a non-electronic version of a 261. Is the performance of the non-electronic the same?

 

[lone wolf]

My dealer can only get green. They can’t even get white anymore.
and, that with the fact that the latest Stihl update for mtronic issues recommends…the white one for the 261, lol.

Or he is BS'ing you and wants to get rid of the green.

 

[Motorhead⚡️]

Are we going to look at the piston, diagnose, or just throw parts at it?

I’d assume the usual suspects have been investigated… but then again we all know what they say about that.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Or he is BS'ing you and wants to get rid of the green.

She, and no,

 

[stihltech]

Are you near Western NY?

 

[thclimer]

Unfortunately no I'm on the other side on NY, only about 4 miles from the Massachusetts boarder. I’ve changed my mind and have ordered a solenoid and I’m going to give that a try.

It looks like you have to remove the carb to get to the small phillips head screw out that holds it in?

From what I’ve read after replacing the solenoid you need to do a reset. My current solenoid is a black one and the label on my handle doesn’t list a version for the M-Tronic so I’m assuming its the older reset procedure:

Chain brake engaged.

Cold Start position, start saw.

Run for at least 90 seconds, then turn off. When saw is running do not touch the throttle.

 

[stihltech]

Unfortunately no I'm on the other side on NY, only about 4 miles from the Massachusetts boarder. I’ve changed my mind and have ordered a solenoid and I’m going to give that a try.

It looks like you have to remove the carb to get to the small phillips head screw out that holds it in?

From what I’ve read after replacing the solenoid you need to do a reset. My current solenoid is a black one and the label on my handle doesn’t list a version for the M-Tronic so I’m assuming its the older reset procedure:

Chain brake engaged.

Cold Start position, start saw.

Run for at least 90 seconds, then turn off. When saw is running do not touch the throttle.

That will be a very small torx screw. T10 without looking. It may also be a security screw with a protrusion in the middle. Your best bet may be to go to Harbor freight and pick up a set of hex drive torx with security bits included. Not tough enough for a shop, but great for limited use.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Unfortunately no I'm on the other side on NY, only about 4 miles from the Massachusetts boarder. I’ve changed my mind and have ordered a solenoid and I’m going to give that a try.

It looks like you have to remove the carb to get to the small phillips head screw out that holds it in?

From what I’ve read after replacing the solenoid you need to do a reset. My current solenoid is a black one and the label on my handle doesn’t list a version for the M-Tronic so I’m assuming its the older reset procedure:

Chain brake engaged.

Cold Start position, start saw.

Run for at least 90 seconds, then turn off. When saw is running do not touch the throttle.

It's normally a tiny Torx. May be the one with the little *** in the center. Is on some stuff.

Sorry Stihltech.

 

[thclimer]

Thanks guys, I've got a set of the tamper torx from HF and a set of regular torx. I'll take a closer look.

 

[stihltech]

It's normally a tiny Torx. May be the one with the little *** in the center. Is on some stuff.

Sorry Stihltech.

Nothing to be sorry about. The knowledge needs to be on here when you have it.

 

[lone wolf]

Thanks guys, I've got a set of the tamper torx from HF and a set of regular torx. I'll take a closer look.

Try without removing the carb.

 

[lone wolf]

She, and no,

I still think the white ones are available.

 

[Motorhead⚡️]

Unfortunately no I'm on the other side on NY, only about 4 miles from the Massachusetts boarder. I’ve changed my mind and have ordered a solenoid and I’m going to give that a try.

It looks like you have to remove the carb to get to the small phillips head screw out that holds it in?

From what I’ve read after replacing the solenoid you need to do a reset. My current solenoid is a black one and the label on my handle doesn’t list a version for the M-Tronic so I’m assuming its the older reset procedure:

Chain brake engaged.

Cold Start position, start saw.

Run for at least 90 seconds, then turn off. When saw is running do not touch the throttle.

I find it much easier with the carb free, or at least slid forward a bit. The age of your saw will indeed be the original software reset you mentioned.
Stihl does recommend an upgraded orange fuel filter to go along with the new solenoid… we’ve been ditching the original white for the orange up here in BC.
Could always just check the filter to make sure it looks good, change the solenoid and do the reset and see if it makes a difference.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I still think the white ones are available.

Evidently not for her but they are a very small dealer in a farm supply store.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I still think the white ones are available.

The whole deal confuses me. I don't see a lot of them. I replaced a green for green a couple of weeks ago.
I try to replace a white with a white. I ordered five more of the same part number as was on the box with the green. So, do I get five more greens ? I also see that they have another part number for a white with an orange fuel filter. As opposed I suppose to just a solenoid with no filter part number.

I may be too old for this.

 

[thclimer]

I find it much easier with the carb free, or at least slid forward a bit. The age of your saw will indeed be the original software reset you mentioned.
Stihl does recommend an upgraded orange fuel filter to go along with the new solenoid… we’ve been ditching the original white for the orange up here in BC.
Could always just check the filter to make sure it looks good, change the solenoid and do the reset and see if it makes a difference.

Thanks, I ordered the kit with the orange fuel filter and will change it as well.