I have not measured the compression but it's not an issue at all. Very good compression. Needs new fuel lines as they are old and one leaks slightly, also a another factor of it not starting/running. I think I will also get a new sprocket since original owners had the chain adjustment so dirty with dirt and crud that the chain wouldn't stay tight because the surfaces were nowhere near clean.
Stihl MS250.. cleaning and clunking
- Thread starter mserke
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Usually, the chain won't stay tight because the sprocket is shot and damages the chain. But running an old damaged
chain on a new sprocket will quickly damage the new sprocket. Put up some pics of the old sprocket and the bottom side of the old chain.
chain on a new sprocket will quickly damage the new sprocket. Put up some pics of the old sprocket and the bottom side of the old chain.
You'r supposed to if you run Huskies, look at page 36 "Maintanence", row 9 down.
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Well Stihl 041s, those need dipped in red loctite..........
The sprocket is a bit worn. I am going to get a new Oregon rim sprocket for it. There are a few chains that i got too, one of which was just sharpened at the local shop, hopefully it isn't worn since they did take the time and $ to sharpen it. I will grab some pictures after work.
Well.... I'm back and looking for some advice after giving the saw a cleaning and such.
I noticed the fuel line was cracked so that was replaced along with the filter, and a carb rebuild. At this point, the spark plug is new and has spark... the fuel seems to be delivering fine... there is compression (unsure how much since i have not measured it but the saw does not fall when held only by the pull cord)... but, the saw does not seems to fire at all. any suggestions? It did run when it was last used but did not idle well from what my father in law told me.
I noticed the fuel line was cracked so that was replaced along with the filter, and a carb rebuild. At this point, the spark plug is new and has spark... the fuel seems to be delivering fine... there is compression (unsure how much since i have not measured it but the saw does not fall when held only by the pull cord)... but, the saw does not seems to fire at all. any suggestions? It did run when it was last used but did not idle well from what my father in law told me.
On the plastic cased saws I generally allow a little more clearance between the coil and flywheel, usually one or two thousandths more than the spec..
You might do a pressure check on it. I found out the hard way that if a seal is bad enough they will not fire.
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Wow!!!!
She's a goner!!!!!!
She's a goner!!!!!!
Besides the scoring it appears that the rings are stuck, a common problem with saws that are run too lean for whatever reason. I replaced a piston and cylinder in a 660 yesterday that had the "H" screw about a half turn or so too lean, it was the second one I've changed on this saw. Maybe I should mail them an instruction manual...
I had to edit my post above. Sharp object does NOT get snagged over those marks. I just don't know if that is considered scored or not. New at this.
Yeah it's worth the cost of rebuilding if you use Chinese aftermarket parts. I think I saw on ebay where you can buy the complete engine for not much money (around $30) but there is a little bit of labor involved. And yes, it does look like it needs repaired.
