Stihl MS260 Starts, Revs off Choke, then dies

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The piston looked good right? Was a compression test done? The only thing left is carb I think, if the tests were done right.
Piston looks better than any of my three running saws, cylinder too. Compression read at 155psi with an Auto zone loaner.

Going to let it sit on the bench til the carb kit arrives except to put a new tank vent in.
 
Piston looks better than any of my three running saws, cylinder too. Compression read at 155psi with an Auto zone loaner.

Going to let it sit on the bench til the carb kit arrives except to put a new tank vent in.
Don't be surprised if the kit does nothing. All it takes is one tiny piece of junk stuck in a tiny port you cant see to make you pissed off. Well I hope it works for you. Anyone you know could lend you a test carb?
 
Don't be surprised if the kit does nothing. All it takes is one tiny piece of junk stuck in a tiny port you cant see to make you pissed off. Well I hope it works for you. Anyone you know could lend you a test carb?
Wish I knew someone with a loaner, no such luck. Shame the one on my 290 doesn't match up according to the saws' IPL's.
 
Follow these guys advice and when you are a saw novice like me never give up or put out re testing parts you have already replaced. I messed up the installation of a fuel line on a 260. Longer story that just that but that is the meat and potatoes of it.
 
(sorry, missed the info in the last post about the L. phone screen too small)

Tell the owner it needs a 194 and he's gonna hafta pony up another 60 bucks.
 
Well, when one poster says that he has "rebuilt" the carb, what does that actually mean?
'
To me, a rebuilt carb has been disassembled fully, scrubbed clean (whether you prefer to soak in a carb cleaning dip, or use the spray) thoroughly inspected, and reassembled using new gaskets and parts as supplied in a rebuild kit from the manufacturer.

Inspected and cleaned is similar, but without all the new parts from a carb kit.
 
To me, a rebuilt carb has been disassembled fully, scrubbed clean (whether you prefer to soak in a carb cleaning dip, or use the spray) thoroughly inspected, and reassembled using new gaskets and parts as supplied in a rebuild kit from the manufacturer.

Inspected and cleaned is similar, but without all the new parts from a carb kit.
So you inspected the orifice under the needle visually?
 
(sorry, missed the info in the last post about the L. phone screen too small)

Tell the owner it needs a 194 and he's gonna hafta pony up another 60 bucks.
Why the 194? From pics I've seen online, the 194 lacks the port on top that the air filter mates up to. If I put a 194 on it, I'd have to figure out a different air filter too. New from the dealer was $28 for the filter I just installed. I think I'll go ahead and try the $4.24 carb kit first.
 
So you inspected the orifice under the needle visually?
Visually inspected, yes. Without the benefit of a light source within the carb to verify absolute pristine condition. I'd like to note that when I initially disassembled the carb, there wasn't so much as a speck within the mesh screen - of course that's no guarantee that there isn't a speck in the orifice.
 
Visually inspected, yes. Without the benefit of a light source within the carb to verify absolute pristine condition. I'd like to note that when I initially disassembled the carb, there wasn't so much as a speck within the mesh screen - of course that's no guarantee that there isn't a speck in the orifice.
Cant help but think ethanol is involved!
 
Why the 194? From pics I've seen online, the 194 lacks the port on top that the air filter mates up to. If I put a 194 on it, I'd have to figure out a different air filter too. New from the dealer was $28 for the filter I just installed. I think I'll go ahead and try the $4.24 carb kit first.
Swap top plates. They're compatible.
 

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