Stihl MS290 or Husqvarna 455

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Oh, and if $399 is in the ballpark, Bailey's has the Husky 359 with a 20" bar on sale for that price; very good saw!
 
You have waited too long...

Certainly the 270/280/353 would be a better saw than the 350. 270 w/ 16" bar is $369, though and that's too near to the 359...one of the best deals goin for $399.

Pull strings. Ask favors. Have a yardsale. Take stuff back after Christmas! Do whatever it takes because now you've looked at it too long and you'll never forget power to weight numbers and magnesium vs. plastic and all the other things that are going to poison your mind and cause loss of sleep till you move up.

It's your fault...just like it was mine...:cry:

I recently sold off an extra gun and and extra gun barrel expressly to pursue a better saw. That $425 made it easy to quit looking at 260/270/280/290/310/390 and buy a MS361. Which is what I knew I really wanted. I have to live w/ my gut so that is what I ultimately went with.

Don't read the specs on the 359... I'm warning you...:blob2:

Chaser
 
Dealers are sometimes not just very compentent. When I visited Stihls dealer and after his question "what and for what I need" talked that I have a some amount of forest and need saw for its maintaince, he seized MS230C and started to convince me that this is the saw what I just need:laugh:
I agree with wagonwheeler that if to lurk here too long you will not buy the saw what you need, but will buy the saw what seem being the best on the planet.

290-455
Here is the most amount of HP-s with the less money the fenomen which sells.
In reality you get the saw with which you can get surely out these HP numbers only at felling. During limbing you will only work with big, heavy, vibrating "weapon" and will probably do less work than with some another smoother saw.
For the occasional cutting this is surely not a catastrophe, evrione wil by 2000W vacuumcleaner istead 1500W one if they cost the same;)
 
spike60 said:
The 455 seems like it was designed to generate emmissions credits more than power. It is HEAVY for what it is and I don't even stock it. It's weight and dimensions are actually very close to the 359/357 chassis. Maybe Husky should do like Stihl (029/039) and put a bigger jug on the rancher chassis. Then it would be worth carrying around. 350 or 353 would be a far better choice.


Have you had much trouble with the newer Huskys running lean?
Thanks,
Mark
 
xander9727 said:
Not that I wouldn't..........I just don't......yet. I would like a 3120 though.

That's a bit too much saw for me! :) I have a 1972 Stihl 030 that cuts great, never a problem with it leaning out in thirty some years!
Happy holidays, maybe Santa will bring ya one!!!!
 
hydro2 said:
That's a bit too much saw for me! :) I have a 1972 Stihl 030 that cuts great, never a problem with it leaning out in thirty some years!
Happy holidays, maybe Santa will bring ya one!!!!

I have a buddy that lives in Cinnci. Get there a couple of times a year! Like the city, much better that Pittsburgh.
 
460Ted said:
Oh, and if $399 is in the ballpark, Bailey's has the Husky 359 with a 20" bar on sale for that price; very good saw!
That should be about the best deal out there, for 400 USD or less.

If 400 is the real limit, you may also take a look at the Dolmar PS-5100S, which offer about the same power in a smaller and lighter package...

...but less proven of course.
 
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Are the Stihl and Husqvarna saws ready to go right out of the box! :dizzy: You guys are costing me a lot of money. :bang: Now you have turned my attention to the Husky 353, 359 or the Stihl 260, 280. Do these saws need anything prior to use?
 
Heilman181 said:
Are the Stihl and Husqvarna saws ready to go right out of the box! :dizzy: You guys are costing me a lot of money. :bang: Now you have turned my attention to the Husky 353, 359 or the Stihl 260, 280. Do these saws need anything prior to use?

You won't get a box w/ a Stihl.

I had to request a box recently since my mom is getting my dad a Stihl blower for Christmas. They had just gotten a shipment in so they still had a box. I also had them NOT gas it up since it was going to be in a box wrapped. Then they asked if he would bring it in for them to gas it up and run through the features or if I was going to do that (which of course I would).

One thing about Stihl instructing about the saw start sequence. It's important to let people know how to use that master control lever or they'll possilby mash it down and break linkage if they're not holding the throttle lever. So, yes, the little instruction can have benefits. And some dealers are better than others for sure.

Yeah, that dolmar 5100s...don't look at the specs on it either...:blob2:

You're gonna be lucky to get out of this with only one saw!

Chaser
 
hydro2 said:
Have you had much trouble with the newer Huskys running lean?
Thanks,
Mark

Mark;

We've sold a bunch of the 570/575's and have had no problems to speak of. They only seem to require a little bit more warm up time in the cold weather. The guys are very happy with them.
 
So if I ordered a Husky 359 from Bailey's for $399, it will be ready to cut out of the box. Or will I have to find a local Husky dealer to fine tune it?
 
computeruser said:
Do understand that the more time you spend on AS the less adequate you will find any saw that you currently own.


Perhaps this is the understatment of the century.

BUT...

Thanks anyway - it's great to be able to collect opinions and information that guide the prospective buyer to a machine that will ultimatly satisfy his needs / desires and more importantly to avoid poor choices
 
Heilman181 said:
So if I ordered a Husky 359 from Bailey's for $399, it will be ready to cut out of the box. Or will I have to find a local Husky dealer to fine tune it?

Heilman, it should be ready to go. When I got my 359 it took a dozen or so pulls the first time I started it. Ever since then it starts w/ 3-4 pulls when cold and 1 pull when warm (unless I manage to foul the plug, which happened only once).

One thing I do (and I don't know if this actually works, I think it does) is pull the cord a few times slowly when first filling the saw up. Since there is no primer bulb this supposedly gets gas to the carb. Seems to work for me.

As for technique, full choke until it sputters, push choke in and it should start on the next pull. The decompression button makes starting ridiculously easy.
 
xander9727 said:
Me too. Pittsburgh just seems really industrial to me.

Our friends lives up near Wyoming or near Mt Healthy. The city has everything you could possibly want and it is very very easy to get around. Any good saw shops out there I could visit when I come out?
Mark
 

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