Stihl MS290 runs hot

[stihlsaw21]

Hi. Recently purchased a Stihl MS290. Saw runs well but noticed that after only running it for, say, 10 minutes its really running hot. To the point that the orange plastic on top of the saw is hot to the touch (I can also hear the 'ticking' of the muffler cooling down when its turned off). The chain is sharp and cutting nicely. The bar oil tank is full and emmitting oil as it should (I tested this). The carborator is set to the dealer setting and idles fine. Any ideas? Is this normal. Thanks!

 

[spudulike]

Are the cooling fins clean or covered in oil and crud - just cleaned a MS200t that was overheating - fins covered in burnt bar oil!

I guess things to check ar fuel oil mix is correct, carb is set correctly, muffler is clear and not blocked, cooling fins are clean as previously mentioned, plug is correct type and the bar/sprocket and clutch are not binding in any way.

Can't think of much more.

Oh - always make sure the chain is sharp and chipping well withthe rekers at correct height - blund saw means longer cutting times at high revs= much heat!
Spud

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Welcome to AS!

Is the saw new? Is this your first saw? Does the dealer have a wood pile that you could do some cutting so he can see how hot the saw is getting?

 

[stihlsaw21]

Thanks for the replies. It is a new saw, I've only run it 4-5 times. Its not my 1st saw, had several. Its my second Stihl. I've still got a Stihl 026 that doesn't heat up like this.

Since its so new its still clean (fins, muffler, etc) and the carborator was not changed from the dealer setting.

I mixed a 1/2 gallon of gas with 1.3 oz of 2 cycle engine oil so I think I'm good on that front too? I was wondering if perhaps there wasn't enough oil in the mix, and if that could cause it to heat up?

 

[Saw Dr.]

Thanks for the replies. It is a new saw, I've only run it 4-5 times. Its not my 1st saw, had several. Its my second Stihl. I've still got a Stihl 026 that doesn't heat up like this.

Since its so new its still clean (fins, muffler, etc) and the carborator was not changed from the dealer setting.

I mixed a 1/2 gallon of gas with 1.3 oz of 2 cycle engine oil so I think I'm good on that front too? I was wondering if perhaps there wasn't enough oil in the mix, and if that could cause it to heat up?

If there is not enough oil in the mix, that will cause it to sieze up. Stock 290's do run a bit hot. I would take it back if it is new, and discuss your concerns with the dealer. If he set it up too lean then he'll make it right with you. That is what warranty is for.

Also, welcome to the world of EPA. Just recently have the manufacturers began coming out with saws designed for EPA regs. Previous to that, existing designs (like your 290) were just corked up with limited carb adjustment, and choked down mufflers. In some cases, the bore was incrementally increased to offset the power loss due to restriction. THe corked mufflers offer the side "benefit" of holding in more heat. I suspect your saw is operating normally for a new 290.

 

[stihlsaw21]

Thanks. I will be taking it back to the dealer to get them to test it out. I think the oil mix ratio is correct b/c I mixed 1.3 oz to a 1/2 gallon of gas (not Stihl brand oil though). Thanks again.

 

[BiodieselNC]

I've got an MS290 about 3 years ago and it has always run hot. Well, I did the popular muffler mod and retuned the carb, took the limiters off and got her nice and rich. Not only does it have more power, but your left hand doesn't get so hot from the muffler. I can feel a noticeable decrease in temperature, even cutting during some 100* days this past summer.

 

[Jsain10]

Hi. Recently purchased a Stihl MS290. Saw runs well but noticed that after only running it for, say, 10 minutes its really running hot. To the point that the orange plastic on top of the saw is hot to the touch (I can also hear the 'ticking' of the muffler cooling down when its turned off). The chain is sharp and cutting nicely. The bar oil tank is full and emmitting oil as it should (I tested this). The carborator is set to the dealer setting and idles fine. Any ideas? Is this normal. Thanks!

I just bought a 291 and in 2 mounths it overheated scored piston and cylinder on motomix fuel and was told no warranty they don't cover over heating. And I own a boiler and have cut wood for 10 years I know how to use a saw.

 

[Jsain10]

Shop has it tore down says it needs new piston and cylinder. Not under warranty its 2 months old

 

[lone wolf]

I just bought a 291 and in 2 mounths it overheated scored piston and cylinder on motomix fuel and was told no warranty they don't cover over heating. And I own a boiler and have cut wood for 10 years I know how to use a saw.

Who knows why it overheated! There lies the catch. Bad fuel ,air leak, improper tuning, dull chain and cutting huge pieces non stop or stumps. This is why you work on your own.

 

[sawmill sam]

No substitute for horsepower. You need a bigger saw! Next time try the 60 or 70cc class.

 

[JustPlainJeff]

No substitute for horsepower. You need a bigger saw! Next time try the 60 or 70cc class.

I shouldn't even bother getting into this with you. But that's about the most incorrect response I can think of, to put it politely. If your Chevy 327" is overheating, you should replace it with a 350" or 396" and the overheating problem will disappear? No. There would be A REASON that the 327 is overheating, and it's not because it's too small.

I can run my 261 50cc saw all day and not have it overheat if it's properly maintained, has a sharp chain, and I'm not trying to "horse" it through the log. On the flip side of that coin, I could easily overheat my 462, a 661 or 880 if there's something not right with the saw, or I'm using it improperly.

You've got no idea what he's even cutting. It could be 4" white pine, or it could be 32" red oak. His saw could very possibly be up to the task of cutting the material that he's working on. To make such a blanket statement without knowing the working conditions is just ignorant.

I've just got to shake my head at your reply. It makes zero sense.

 

[Jsain10]

Thanks for the comments guys but after talking to the rep and telling him what I was doing he looked into it and warantyed the saw

 

[Jsain10]

And I was cutting a 30in maple and still had chips coming out when it died.

 

[lone wolf]

And I was cutting a 30in maple and still had chips coming out when it died.

56 cc's cutting 30 in wood for long might just be why it heated up. Get a bigger saw. Or tune what you got a bit richer.

 

[Jsain10]

It just surprises me I have a Timberwolf echo that I work like a dog and it's never let me down

 

[Okie]

I would at least mix up some Stihl oil and re-test BEFORE I took it back to the dealer with your complaint. Telling them you ARE NOT using Stihl products while it's under warranty is not a good thing for YOU.

Take it back ASAP so you will be on record if it goes bad later. I would go with them to their testing wood pile and see if they do any carb tuning.
It's also a good idea to talk to the dealer manager or at least get the name of the person checking YOUR SAW.
You might very well need this info later if the saw flames out and the guy helping you has moved on to greener pastures, therefore YOu get to bite the bullet.

 

[Wood Doctor]

56 cc's cutting 30 in wood for long might just be why it heated up. Get a bigger saw. Or tune what you got a bit richer.

I am now rebuilding a 290 that was used with a 20" bar/chain by a tree service company. Hot weather and cutting a big ash tree burned it out. They observed it giving up and just kept running it hot in order to get the job done. This engine was cooked professionally until it shut down. I've told them to drop down to an 18" bar/chain to reduce the load, but they won't listen. They also tend to use dull chains and that makes it worse.

 

[Okie]

I am now rebuilding a 290 that was used with a 20" bar/chain by a tree service company. Hot weather and cutting a big ash tree burned it out. They observed it giving up and just kept running it hot in order to get the job done. This engine was cooked professionally until it shut down. I've told them to drop down to an 18" bar/chain to reduce the load, but they won't listen. They also tend to use dull chains and that makes it worse.

They observed it giving up and just kept on.

Really have to keep a heads up about a saw starting to run slower or acting like the chain is getting pinched or clogged in the cut, the rpms going down, lift the saw out of the cut, piss rev it a few times, the rpm's comes back up when out of the cut, back into the heavy full bar long cut and it starts slowing down again.
Most generally the saw is trying to talk to the OP but they just keep trying and the saws piston and cylinder is turning to cancer. Piston getting hot and swelling into the cylinder and eating itself.
After they pay for a few new saw replacements or repairs they will maybe get a heads up about such,, some never will.

 

[Wood Doctor]

They observed it giving up and just kept on.

Really have to keep a heads up about a saw starting to run slower or acting like the chain is getting pinched or clogged in the cut, the rpms going down, lift the saw out of the cut, piss rev it a few times, the rpm's comes back up when out of the cut, back into the heavy full bar long cut and it starts slowing down again.
Most generally the saw is trying to talk to the OP but they just keep trying and the saws piston and cylinder is turning to cancer. Piston getting hot and swelling into the cylinder and eating itself.
After they pay for a few new saw replacements or repairs they will maybe get a heads up about such,, some never will.

I also observed something else. The outer handle was damaged from yanking the saw in an effort to dislodge it. Connectors to the case were distorted and they need to be replaced. The engine might have been running hot and trying to drive the chain at the same time while being yanked. In short, this Ms290 was both abused and burned out.