Stihl MS440 or What??

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Considering a Stihl MS440... What other comparable saws would others recommend..Not a heavy saw user, but do not want to play games with "homeowner saw" . Cost, within reason, is not a factor
 
Greetings, loghead,

I'd say you're on the right track with that saw.  I haven't run an MS361 in the wood yet, but I understand one's on its way here to me now and am looking forward to trying it.  I've got a good-running 036 and a "fun" 044 on the truck, both currently with 20" bars.  At any rate, if you're cutting mainly 18-20" stuff and less, you might consider dropping a pound and about $150 (isn't that the current price spread?) and look at the MS361.  It might make a better all-around saw than the MS440 for mainly limbing.  If it's mainly felling/bucking, then go with your first instinct; it's a fine choice.

Glen
 
Nothing bad can be said about the Stihl 044/440. The saw is still in the running.


Little improvements like a spring supported anti-vibe instead of rubber would move this saw ahead IMO.


Unfortunately the EPA being what it is are forcing changes on our favorite saws.


Everyone thought just a few months ago that the Husky 372 replacement (the 575)was coming up short. EHP has since proven us wrong. When Russ gets his 575 back from EHP I am sure EHP's mods will get a thumbs up!!!
 
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I've had the pleasure of running all the listed saws with the exception of the Dolmar. The company I work for has about 10 ms440's. They are the workhorse on the ground, and often times in the tree on the trunk sections. We run them with 24 inch bars, but it will pull a larger bar if needed. They run super. The Husky 372 runs neck and neck with the Stihl,
we have 2. I just don't know if the Husky will be as long lasting as the Stihl because we only recently started running the Huskys. We have 1 Stihl 361 w/ 20" bar, its a screamer.
Fast and light, could probably pull 24" occasionally if needed.
Dealer support is also an issue you should consider.

Corey :)
 
I run a Husky 372 w/20" bar (walker muffler mod.) and a friend of mine runs a Stihl 044 w/ 18' bar; stock. He decided he wanted to race thru a 10'' white oak the other day. He had a new chain while I had about 25 min. of cutting time on a fresh chain sharpening (done by myself).He lost by about 1 second. These saws are the same cc's. The only problem I have with Stihl saws are the oiling system. I owned a 310
(brand new)for about 1 month. That thing just wouldnt put enough oil on the bar. It would throw sparks with every use with the oiler cranked all the way up.Sold it! Dolmar looks like a fine saw but there isnt anyone in this area that sells or services them. Good luck with whichever saw you decide on.
 
I've run into oiling problems on Stihls myself.  Once, my brother was cutting some white ash in about 60° F weather, using winter-grade bar oil, and with a dull chain on his MS290.  There wasn't enough thick-enough oil to keep things running cool.

Another time, I'd put an Oregon laminated bar on my 036 and most of the oil ran out the tail of the bar instead of being picked up by the chain.

Other than that, I don't have any problems nor have I seen any first-hand.

Jack, you still beat him by about a second when you swapped saws and did it again, right?

Glen
 
I've got a 440, as well as a 310. I've had nothing but trouble with that 310's oiling. I've heard others that had the same problems with 310's. I love the 440 though, I run a 24" or 20" bar on it with either the full-chisel stihl chain, or the full-chisel skip-tooth woodsman pro chains. all combos work great. The 440 has great power right away, though I've considered some mods just for the hell of it. In my opinion go with the Stihl, other than the 310 oiler I've had great luck with my stihl's.
 
Comparing the 310 to a 440 is like comparing a Yugo to a Mercedes. The Yugo was built for the huddled masses of eastern block countries. It would get you there a little better than the family mule or tractor, but not much better.

The 310 is a Homeowner saw. Made to homeowner specs (made to compete with newer Poulan, and Homelites). You should know better. The 440 is a totally different animal.



:blob2:
 
If your directing that toward me, at no point was I comparing the two saws, only saying that the only problem I've ever had with a stihl was with that particular 310.
 
I have come up through the ranks of the Stihl saws, and have owned 7 or 8 different models.
Currently, I have a 026 pro and a MS460.
Like you, i am not a professional, just an occaisional user cutting 8 to 10 cords of firewood each year, but love to run the saws and like a quality, high performing piece of equipment.
If you can swing the price difference, I recommend you taking a good look at the MS460 over the MS440, I doubt you would regret it.
Toolmaker
 
Any saw in the 70cc class size will make you more than happy. Unless you have money just burning a hole in your pocket. I do not see any advantage in your application to purchase a larger saw. I like to run with a 20 to 24 inch bar. I have both a Stihl 044 and a Husky 371xp. They both cut at about the same speed. The Husky transfers a little less vibration to the operator. It also has the "air injection" feature. Happy Cutting.
 
Devil's advocate food for thought...

The Sthil homeowner saws (speaking especially of MS290-390) are not made to compete with the likes of the newer Poulans or Homelites.  Instead of trying to fix the apples-to-oranges comparison, DirtTroll, you've made it apples-to-oranges-to-peanuts.

The MS460 would maybe be a better saw to pair up with the MS260 than would the MS440, maybe, but for a fairly-occasional single-saw user, it's way too much of everything.  The MS440 is heavily flirting with that limit of practicality itself.

GeorgeW, in a few direct informal comparisons, I've noted the spring-slung saws vibrate less out of the cut, but <i>in</i> the cut have not been able to detect enough difference to write home about.&nbsp; What's your opinion on that?

Glen
 
Oil troubles on the 044

I actually came in from cutting with my 044 to see if someone would have some tips on here for getting more oil flow from it . When the gas is empty, I still have oil left in the tank.
I just put a new 20" bar on, and don't want to trash it.
 
glens said:
Devil's advocate food for thought...

GeorgeW, in a few direct informal comparisons, I've noted the spring-slung saws vibrate less out of the cut, but <i>in</i> the cut have not been able to detect enough difference to write home about.&nbsp; What's your opinion on that?

Glen

Well Glen, maybe you`re right. Must be the "two mass" that Husky uses that makes them superior!
 
BrokenFences,

It is normal to have oil left in the tank when the gas runs out. Look at your other indications of a properly oiled bar and chain.

Have you tried adjusting the oiler? Nothing in the oil stream is slightly plugged?.

Russ
 
044 oiler

Just turn your oiler on F(Full) or H(High) and forget about it. What is up will all these people that worry about compression numbers or if the oiler empties the oil tank the same time the fuel runs out?

First off, you never mentioned how full/empty your oil tank was after the fuel tank was empty. You also never mentioned if you ran the saw at full power during that entire tank of fuel. You did not mention the outside temps of the location you are cutting? Was the oil extremely cold? If so did you cut the oil with diesel fuel? There are many factors that affect the output of the chainsaw oiler and to say you have oil left in the tank is not enough information for any one to give you an informed answer.

Personally, I find that on most of the newer saws that my operators can almost get 2 tanks of fuel per tank of oil. The older saws, I would say before 1995(Guesstimate) the oilers produce much more oil than saws built today. Is this a new saw from a dealer? How old is it?
 

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