Stihl MS441 Crankcase Gasket and Cylinder Gasket junction

[gtmwoodworking]

Hi All. I'm new to this site as a member but have done a lot of browsing here before joining. I'm a hobbyist woodworker who bought a couple of eBay saws to learn how to fix 'em and then harvest my own lumber for projects.

I just replaced the crankcase gasket on my MS441. I noticed that it protrudes approximately 1/4" above the crankcase-cylinder junction (see photos). This condition is not addressed in the manual. It only says to ensure that sealing surfaces are clean. This junction buy itself if interesting because it needs to be air-tight but you're trying to force two gaskets into a "T" to accomplish it. I came up with the following options and wanted to get some more experienced opinions on it before proceeding:

1: Cut the gasket flush to the crankcase using straight blade razor
2: Cut the gasket 10-20 thou proud of the crankcase (using a few sheets of paper as a guide)
3: Don't cut the gasket but bend it to one side or the other and hope the cylinder gasket can fill the space

Right now I'm leaning towards #2, plus I can always go back and try #1 if it fails the pressure test at that spot.

 

[atpchas]

I vote for #1 (Cut the gasket flush to the crankcase using straight blade razor). Never had a problem doing just that.

 

[L34]

+1 cut flush

 

[2stroker]

#1 and Dirko both sides of the cylinder gasket!

 

[Andyshine77]

Cut it flush, a bit of sealant won't hurt.

 

[jjcard41]

+4 to the above replies

 

[stihl86]

Cut it flush. But no Dirko. You don’t need it. The gasket, if I remember, is coated.

 

[67L36Driver]

X-ACTO with a chisel blade is perfect for trimming gasket material standing proud of the case.

 

[gtmwoodworking]

Thank you all for the replies. Seems like everyone agrees on the course of action.