Stihl MS460 Magnum problems

[2100hpS10]

No you cannot bore it out. There is a nikasil plating on the cylinder and once it is removed the cylinder is done for.

Ok.. thanks for the info. I ordered a cylinder kit last night for it. I'm going to try and find a good Stihl mechanic to install and get the propper tune up on it. Hopefully it will be right again.

 

[bwalker]

Ok.. thanks for the info. I ordered a cylinder kit last night for it. I'm going to try and find a good Stihl mechanic to install and get the propper tune up on it. Hopefully it will be right again.

Make sure you determine what caused the failure in the first place. If you don't it will happen again.

 

[mikerudder]

Post up some pictures of the jug once you pull it off.
Might be salvageable! Some guys here know a lot better than me, but I’ve resurrected a few thanks to the help of a few guys around the forums.

 

[rupedoggy]

It ran hot.

 

[2100hpS10]

Can you post up a couple pics of your cylinder? I’ve got used 460 cylinders. I’d rather not outright sell the cylinders, as I use them for building 044/046 hybrids, but if I knew I could clean yours up, we could work out a trade. All you’d need then is a Meteor piston and you’d be back to oem quality

Can you post up a couple pics of your cylinder? I’ve got used 460 cylinders. I’d rather not outright sell the cylinders, as I use them for building 044/046 hybrids, but if I knew I could clean yours up, we could work out a trade. All you’d need then is a Meteor piston and you’d be back to oem quality

I don't have the tool to take the cyl off yet... waiting for it to come. Here's a few pics... hard to get a good pic with phone flash.
Intake side of cyl from what I see has a little scoring and the exhaust side has a lot (see piston and ring pic).

 

[2100hpS10]

You need to read your very first post! Either you did check things or you didn't!
"I checked the cylinder and piston and it has no scoring on them." I'm done with this one. Seems to be blowing smoke to me. jmho OT

I was looking down through the spark plug hole. I really couldn't tell a whole lot. I just later took the exhaust off and took some pics. I am not a chain saw mechanic. I have never worked on them before. This is all new to me.

 

[2100hpS10]

Make sure you determine what caused the failure in the first place. If you don't it will happen again.

Evidently it ran hot, possibly due to a bad tune or the person it was lent to didn't mix fuel correctly. My guess.

 

[chipper1]

I’ve never heard anyone say there were issues with the 460.

They vibrate like mad, air filtration sucks, the flippy caps suck, and they handle like a bear for limbing .

That being said they are one of the most bulletproof saws available, and I'm more of a husky fan .

OP, sounds like you're on your way with the saw.

So what's most important now is of the S10!

 

[chipper1]

the person it was lent to didn't mix fuel correctly.

This.

 

[huskihl]

I don't have the tool to take the cyl off yet... waiting for it to come. Here's a few pics... hard to get a good pic with phone flash.
Intake side of cyl from what I see has a little scoring and the exhaust side has a lot (see piston and ring pic).

Send me a pm if you want to keep it all oem

 

[huskihl]

They vibrate like mad, air filtration sucks, the flippy caps suck, and they handle like a bear for limbing .

That being said they are one of the most bulletproof saws available, and I'm more of a husky fan .

OP, sounds like you're on your way with the saw.

So what's most important now is of the S10!

They’re not for everyone, obviously lol

 

[2100hpS10]

I put a meteor kit into the one I fully rebuilt , I had to dremel the cylinder ports to remove casting flaws and excess nikasil, squish was something like .028 out of the box after cleaning the base with a gasket. The saw is a absolute beast and requires the decomp and D handle so your fingers, elbow and shoulder are not destroyed starting it. The meteor piston weighed over 20 grams heavier than the scored oem i removed, if i pull that cylinder again im sticking a oem or weismic back in its place and if you get a aftermarket cylinder i suggest getting a oem piston. Use a oem wrist pin bearing and oem wrist pin retainer clips in whatever you decide.
And I 100% agree those responsible would be chastised to great extent and shown a dealers quote of the repair cost with requests to cover the parts then sent copies on birthdays, christmas, anniversaries, posted on social media asking other friends/family how they would handle it so its on full display then likely frame it to hang in full view as a reminder so nothing is ever loaned out again on your behalf.

Thanks for the info. I did order an after market cyl/piston kit.. Hyway Titanikel with popup piston 52mm. I will have them install a new oem wrist pin bearing and wrist pin, and retainers. So you are saying go with an oem piston with the Hyway cyl and not the titanikel piston? Have you heard anything sbout these new Titanikel kits? Good or bad?

 

[cookies]

Thanks for the info. I did order an after market cyl/piston kit.. Hyway Titanikel with popup piston 52mm. I will have them install a new oem wrist pin bearing and wrist pin, and retainers. So you are saying go with an oem piston with the Hyway cyl and not the titanikel piston? Have you heard anything sbout these new Titanikel kits? Good or bad?

Yes go with a oem piston if possible unless squish is huge and you can not sand the base to reduce it, they are the highest quality, better designed than the major players in the aftermarket game as are the oem rings. You should have waited to order the kit until after you removed the cylinder and cleaned the aluminum transfer from the piston off of the walls. The nicacil coating is very very hard and often is mostly undamaged once the transfer is cleaned off. A bucket of water with some baking soda mixed in, 1 oz of muriatic acid and some q tips, scotchbrite and 320 sandpaper is all thats needed to clean the aluminum off it.
A few folks have reported buying the titanikle setups, they look very shiny and smooth. In my experience hyway performs ok, their port timing can be wonky on their standard cylinders and squish can be over .045. I havent used the titanikle cylinders yet and they are pushing it hard as their premium line so they may be excellent, the pistons/rings are the same as what comes in the regular nic kits. In my experience cutting/drilling titanium I would expect that if you do not use the saw really hard out of the gate the titanium coating will work/heat harden causing very slow ring bedding to the cylinder wall. but none of this matters if the oem cylinder is savable.

 

[2100hpS10]

Yes go with a oem piston if possible unless squish is huge and you can not sand the base to reduce it, they are the highest quality, better designed than the major players in the aftermarket game as are the oem rings. You should have waited to order the kit until after you removed the cylinder and cleaned the aluminum transfer from the piston off of the walls. The nicacil coating is very very hard and often is mostly undamaged once the transfer is cleaned off. A bucket of water with some baking soda mixed in, 1 oz of muriatic acid and some q tips, scotchbrite and 320 sandpaper is all thats needed to clean the aluminum off it.
A few folks have reported buying the titanikle setups, they look very shiny and smooth. In my experience hyway performs ok, their port timing can be wonky on their standard cylinders and squish can be over .045. I havent used the titanikle cylinders yet and they are pushing it hard as their premium line so they may be excellent, the pistons/rings are the same as what comes in the regular nic kits. In my experience cutting/drilling titanium I would expect that if you do not use the saw really hard out of the gate the titanium coating will work/heat harden causing very slow ring bedding to the cylinder wall. but none of this matters if the oem cylinder is savable.

I will try cleaning the cyl as you said as soon as I get it off.
I did order Caber rings so they should be good as oem? I came very close to getting a Meteor kit. Anyway it's all in the works and time will tell. I will put it back together if I can get this oem cyl cleaned up.
If not, I will try to find a local guru to install the new cyl, etc.
I really get mad everytime I think about the saw as it was nearly new... just not used as all.

 

[bwalker]

I will try cleaning the cyl as you said as soon as I get it off.
I did order Caber rings so they should be good as oem? I came very close to getting a Meteor kit. Anyway it's all in the works and time will tell. I will put it back together if I can get this oem cyl cleaned up.
If not, I will try to find a local guru to install the new cyl, etc.
I really get mad everytime I think about the saw as it was nearly new... just not used as all.

For such a clean saw I would go Oem everything. And again I would figure out why it seized. Judging by the last pic it looks like the tank has straight gas in it. Depending on how long it lasted on straight gas you may have other issues. Check the rod for up and down movement.
Honestly the guy that was running it should foot the bill for all OEM parts!

 

[2100hpS10]

For such a clean saw I would go Oem everything. And again I would figure out why it seized. Judging by the last pic it looks like the tank has straight gas in it. Depending on how long it lasted on straight gas you may have other issues. Check the rod for up and down movement.
Honestly the guy that was running it should foot the bill for all OEM parts!

It was definitely not run on straight gas. It has a bluish tint to it. It's very possible that the guy who used it ran about 30-40:1 oil mix in it. There is no slack in crank and rod bearings and piston moves freely. A new kit is on the way. It won't get loaned out again. I agree with them footing the bill but is a family issue.

 

[2100hpS10]

They vibrate like mad, air filtration sucks, the flippy caps suck, and they handle like a bear for limbing .

That being said they are one of the most bulletproof saws available, and I'm more of a husky fan .

OP, sounds like you're on your way with the saw.

So what's most important now is of the S10!

S10 is a project and not finished. I worked the last 10 years overseas and now retired the last two years. I am catching up on house projects and will return to building the race car soon. Will post a couple of pics in a day or so. Here is a pic of the 506ci small block. It has Pro Topline 12 degree custom ported heads and been shaved to 11 degrees. TRE in Texas came up with bore, stroke, pistons, and cam specs. Nitrous system is progressive..

 

[chipper1]

S10 is a project and not finished. I worked the last 10 years overseas and now retired the last two years. I am catching up on house projects and will return to building the race car soon. Will post a couple of pics in a day or so. Here is a pic of the 506ci small block. It has Pro Topline 12 degree custom ported heads and been shaved to 11 degrees. TRE in Texas came up with bore, stroke, pistons, and cam specs. Nitrous system is progressive..

That's sweet, thanks for sharing .
Back in the day I built 5 different s10/s15 with 327-350's, and a nice lowered s10 with a 4.3.
All were fun, but if I had to do it over I'd do a ranger with w/a 289, they fit a lot nicer.
Good luck on the project"s".

 

[link]

S10 is a project and not finished. I worked the last 10 years overseas and now retired the last two years. I am catching up on house projects and will return to building the race car soon. Will post a couple of pics in a day or so. Here is a pic of the 506ci small block. It has Pro Topline 12 degree custom ported heads and been shaved to 11 degrees. TRE in Texas came up with bore, stroke, pistons, and cam specs. Nitrous system is progressive..

Here is my project last year, it don't have Nitrous though... you just might catch up. 80cc, now the 460 with a big bore is 82,5.

 

[Mad Professor]

Person who loaned out the saw without your permission should buy you a new genuine stihl piston and cylinder kit, base gasket and gudgeon bearing.
let them take up the expense with the ***** who ruined your saw.

My saws stay chained w/logging chain to a timber beam in the barn. They hang by the handles on spikes driven into the beam. Only I know the lock combination.



It's a foolproof way of keeping fools/idiots from borrowing my saws.

If you must, leave a "wildthingy" loose for the morons to borrow.