Stihl MS881 or Husqvarna 3120xp

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James Sawyer

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As a milling saw is the 3120XP worth the saving over the MS881. The Oregon logging conference is happening on the 21st. Husqvarna had a good price on 3120xp last year, I didn't have enough to buy it but now I do. Or should just go with the Stihl MS881.
 
My 3120 has been good to me. I got it from the member on here named chainsawguy I think. I paid like 1450$ in 2020 power head only. I like the worm gear extra oiler you can hit with your thumb on big cuts. I push it every minute or so for a few seconds. Never ran a 880 or 881 but I’d like to, obviously ;)
 
As a milling saw is the 3120XP worth the saving over the MS881. The Oregon logging conference is happening on the 21st. Husqvarna had a good price on 3120xp last year, I didn't have enough to buy it but now I do. Or should just go with the Stihl MS881.
If all you need is something to cut 5’ diameter or less, a 661 with 42” is 10# lighter, $1000 cheaper and a whole lot faster.
 
So... you run a 661 42" without issues? How long of cut?
Absolutely. And a 066 before that. Mostly in Oak and Eucalyptus.
Cutting 4-5’ diameter trees into 16” rounds. The 661 has a bit more torque than the older 066. With a ho oiler, which is standard in the 661, oiling is no issue.
Dropped and cut up a 6’ oak with my 066.
 
So... you run a 661 42" without issues? How long of cut?
No question 90-95cc saws can pull a 42" bar effortlessly and handle big trees. The only reason I've found for going bigger is nothing to do with what it can handle, but how easily it can handle it. The slower rpm, high torque monsters like the 3120 and 881 are well suited for long big milling cuts at a slow and steady pace. Most folks prefer the much higher speed of the 90cc saws for crosscutting rounds. I've always thought people have exaggerated the size saw you need to mill with, but it's mainly erring on the side of caution that you never overtax your saw in long difficult cuts. But unless you're planning to mill a lot of really big wood on a regular basis, a 661 or Husky 395 is going to be all you ever need. Plus they're suitable for more general use, whereas the 120cc range saws are really just dedicated milling saws.
 
No question 90-95cc saws can pull a 42" bar effortlessly and handle big trees. The only reason I've found for going bigger is nothing to do with what it can handle, but how easily it can handle it. The slower rpm, high torque monsters like the 3120 and 881 are well suited for long big milling cuts at a slow and steady pace. Most folks prefer the much higher speed of the 90cc saws for crosscutting rounds. I've always thought people have exaggerated the size saw you need to mill with, but it's mainly erring on the side of caution that you never overtax your saw in long difficult cuts. But unless you're planning to mill a lot of really big wood on a regular basis, a 661 or Husky 395 is going to be all you ever need. Plus they're suitable for more general use, whereas the 120cc range saws are really just dedicated milling saws.
For milling, duh. I thought we were just talking general cutting :p
I wouldn't bother with a 660/661 for milling over 24".
 
Yes you can mill with under 120cc, but I would always prefer 120cc.

There is very little between the two saws. Go with price, dealer support, what bars you have and what you are used to working on.

What I will say is that for milling, you don't necessarily need all the working features - brake, anti-vibe, felling dogs. You can use this to your advantage when buying second hand. My 088 has been going strong for many years.
 
I have some big douglas fir trees I'd like to mill so I was strictly thing about for milling. I have a MS661 with 42" bar but I rather not burn up my saw. I want cut some long beams out them. They are about 45" on the butt, #1 peelers so they are clear. The beams will be about 24ft long. I've never mill anything that long before and I'm going need a lot longer bar.
 
I have some big douglas fir trees I'd like to mill so I was strictly thing about for milling. I have a MS661 with 42" bar but I rather not burn up my saw. I want cut some long beams out them. They are about 45" on the butt, #1 peelers so they are clear. The beams will be about 24ft long. I've never mill anything that long before and I'm going need a lot longer bar.

Wow, that's some job. The logistics of arranging the straight edge, lifting and moving the slabs will be quite something. I agree that a 120 cc saw is required for that - both to run the width of bar, but also because you will be cutting for a long time. The 661 will be an excellent 'partner saw' for cutting off any bumps.

As above there is very little between the two saws - get whatever is cheapest or maybe you can get a good deal on a bar and chain. Beyond 4 ft bars and chains get expensive, this could be $500 alone.
 
I have some big douglas fir trees I'd like to mill so I was strictly thing about for milling. I have a MS661 with 42" bar but I rather not burn up my saw. I want cut some long beams out them. They are about 45" on the butt, #1 peelers so they are clear. The beams will be about 24ft long. I've never mill anything that long before and I'm going need a lot longer bar.
With the common disclaimer of useless advice - "I don't have direct experience of that" - I've always felt that big PNW softwoods like Doug fir are where 3120/881's with .404 chain shine the most in milling. The big chain is an advantage to clearing big softwood chips and the saws have power to take big bites. What size beams are you looking to make? Up to 6x beams, I've always figured the best way to avoid difficult squaring and rolling of huge logs would be to mill full width 6" deep slabs with your chainsaw and then use a 16 5/16" Makita or Sawsquatch circular saw to rip to desired beam size - 6x6, 6x12, whatever.
 
You don't specifically need a 3120 or 880 for that length bar and milling, but the extra power would be welcome. One of my regrets was getting rid of my 084av after my cousin got a bandsaw mill. I just didn't use it much anymore, and the 394xp does just fine with a 42" bar for the odd occasion I need to mill something and can't/ don't want to take it to the mill. Should have just kept it. Although, it would probably have more carb issues then it was worth since it would have been used so seldom.
 
Should have just kept it. Although, it would probably have more carb issues then it was worth since it would have been used so seldom.
Yeah, I never use my 780/880 anymore but nice to have in my back pocket for when I do come across something massive. Took to renting it out on occasion to a tree service neighbor just to ensure it still got some use but I repair so much equipment for the guy that I realize he couldn't be trusted with it, he destroys so much gear. Quit while I was ahead and made off him about half what it cost me, and he seemingly didn't do any permanent damage to it. But now it just sits. Need to run a tank through it soon just for any reason at all, find some giant stump to cut some cookies out of or something.
 
Yeah, I never use my 780/880 anymore but nice to have in my back pocket for when I do come across something massive. Took to renting it out on occasion to a tree service neighbor just to ensure it still got some use but I repair so much equipment for the guy that I realize he couldn't be trusted with it, he destroys so much gear. Quit while I was ahead and made off him about half what it cost me, and he seemingly didn't do any permanent damage to it. But now it just sits. Need to run a tank through it soon just for any reason at all, find some giant stump to cut some cookies out of or something.

My seldom used saws get run on 40:1 aspen. Its expensive and those saws are thirsty, but it seems to keep the carbs in good condition and they start really easily.

I love having a 120 cc saw with a 25 inch bar around for lumping up massive logs. I then stack the logs end on and rip right them into cubes. This saves a lot of axe work.
 
As a milling saw is the 3120XP worth the saving over the MS881. The Oregon logging conference is happening on the 21st. Husqvarna had a good price on 3120xp last year, I didn't have enough to buy it but now I do. Or should just go with the Stihl MS881.
I mill with a 084. I have an 880 and an 881. I have max air flow filters on them, so the 3120 has better filtration. I like my Stihls. husky will have a slightly faster chain speed too
 
My seldom used saws get run on 40:1 aspen. Its expensive and those saws are thirsty, but it seems to keep the carbs in good condition and they start really easily.
Well, all this talk got me inspired to go start my big Stihl on a rare subfreezing south Texas morning. Once I figured out that the chainbrake on was preventing me from getting a good pull - the 780 even with decomp activated for some reason is more of a bear than 880's seem to be - when I took the chain brake off it fired up immediately to my surprise. No matter how long it sits, most dependable saw I've ever owned at starting right up. But since the tank is near empty, high time to go get some quality premix to run through it and store it with.
 
With the common disclaimer of useless advice - "I don't have direct experience of that" - I've always felt that big PNW softwoods like Doug fir are where 3120/881's with .404 chain shine the most in milling. The big chain is an advantage to clearing big softwood chips and the saws have power to take big bites. What size beams are you looking to make? Up to 6x beams, I've always figured the best way to avoid difficult squaring and rolling of huge logs would be to mill full width 6" deep slabs with your chainsaw and then use a 16 5/16" Makita or Sawsquatch circular saw to rip to desired beam size - 6x6, 6x12, whatever.
I had a bridge across my creek which I built with some 12" by 16" or 18" beams I got from my brother in-law who worked for the county. I had 5 beams 30 years ago. Over time these rotted and I have one left, they were used when I got them, so they weren't prefect. During high water this is the only way I have to get across. So as we know making a long cut like that is not going to be perfect but it doesn't have to be. Its not going be a continues cut and there is no way I know to setup a fence that long. I have two big blow downs with clear logs with just about 45" on the butt with some length on that 1st log. My problem I got do something with them this summer or just let them rot. problem is this ground is steep and there is not a way to move these with the equipment I have now. Getting them off the hill and across the creek just no way. I do have a friend with a 36" mill but I have no way of getting them to him. I have a chainsaw mill and MS661 but I don't think that's going do it. My dad has a wildfire cat I could haul in after the season but by the time I pay for the trucking 4 ways, even thou my dad has a lowboy... but then what? Timber prices are up on this size of timber and its ready, so I could have someone come in and log it but I rather not have the eye sore... Let the kids log it when I'm gone. If I can cut some cants then I can get them off the hill, my neighbor has a small excavator to move them. I'd just take the cant out thru his place and my buddy will mill them, I think his carriage I think like 20'. Anyway, that my thoughts and I been saving for a bigger saw and have the money, its more a fun want to project . I know what those logs are worth and it just eats at me to let them rot. A couple weeks ago I let my two of my neighbors come in and pull the some of the smaller blow down out with his excavator... short logs. I just let them have them for firewood. The logging show is this weekend, so head down tomorrow to see what kind of deal I can get on a saw. Another member pinged me on good price on saw so thought I check out the show 1st and talk to some people. A 6" wide cant is plenty wide enough for main beams. a 10" or 12" cant for milling into treads. Anyway that's my thoughts and that a lot work if you done any milling for what it is! I'll cut the 1st cant off at 6" wide see how that goes. Maybe the whole project doesn't make sense, I'm taking it as more want to hobby thing. The wisest thing would be to buy a semi hay trailer ( the frame on the outside for those that don't know) set it as a bridge. level it with pony benches and pour abutments. Drop it on the abutments and bolt it.
 
My seldom used saws get run on 40:1 aspen. Its expensive and those saws are thirsty, but it seems to keep the carbs in good condition and they start really easily.

I love having a 120 cc saw with a 25 inch bar around for lumping up massive logs. I then stack the logs end on and rip right them into cubes. This saves a lot of axe work.
wow... a120cc saw with 25" bar just make no sense to me... from what I'm use to.
 
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