Stihl MS881 who has one

[ZinTrees]

That's a nice selection of saws.

Are any your work saws muffler-modded, timing advanced, or ported?

Just muffler mod, drill most of them out

Right now I'm running a t540ixp, 194t, 391, 500i, km131 kombi unit and the 881, I've also got a 395xp, 261c, and a 200t but all 3 need new top ends, got them used and they has scored cylinders, ran them till they died and put them in the "one day I'll fix it" pile

 

[ZinTrees]

Just muffler mod, drill most of them out

Right now I'm running a t540ixp, 194t, 391, 500i, km131 kombi unit and the 881, I've also got a 395xp, 261c, and a 200t but all 3 need new top ends, got them used and they has scored cylinders, ran them till they died and put them in the "one day I'll fix it" pile

I am planning to do a barkbox on the 500i, and bigger dogs, I've caught quite a few trees on fire with the stock 500 muffler and dogs due to the fact the dogs are so short the muffler touches the log

also planning to get a 400C, probably not even fix my 261 and 395 since the 500 replaces a 395 and a 400 replaces a 261 in my mind, although the price difference makes me lean towards a 261 still, I just really like the idea of a fairly powerful light saw to cut smaller wood but running a 25 or 28" bar for reach

 

[StihlPotlicker]

I have run a 60" on my 880 and 084. and 42 on my 881. I just put the tip on a block of wood or brush and tighten it like a shorter bar.

 

[Long Bar 60]

If I remember correctly, on the 084 (don't know about it's progeny, never owned any), the adjustment "screw" is actually a worm wheel that ultimately engages the adjuster. Behind this worm wheel is a rubber o-ring and both of these are held against the engine case by a plate with 2 screws. That o-ring can get or be dry and that creates a lot of friction. Lube it and the inside of the worm wheel and it should help. Prior to the 84's we cut the big stuff with 090's and 075's. Loved the 84's for their lighter weight, less vibration and more chain speed but the chain adjuster left something to be desired. No bloody knuckles when you slipped and drove your hand into the dawgs like on the old saws but it was tough to get the chain properly tensioned on a longish bar. I used to make a cut vertically across the top of a stump and put my bar in that cut when adjusting the chain. I could have the bar tip "up", pull back on the motor and tighten the adjuster at the same time. I could get the chain to snap against the bar even on a 60" bar. LOL This is gettin' me "pinin' for the fyords" although it was a lot of work back in the big timber days.