Stihl paint color and technique

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You guys are all color blind cause I tried that ford tractor Grey and it ain't anywhere close


I believe there are two Ford grays. The Light Ford Gray from TSC is the match. This is a farm implement paint so it should be as tough as you can get from a rattle can. When they say it takes 24 hours to dry, they aren't kidding. The only way to get real fuel resistance is with 2 part epoxy or powder coating. I give the Light Ford Gray a couple of light coats of Helmsman clear semi-gloss spar urethane for a little more protection. If you go too heavy with this clear, it starts to yellow.
 

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This is an 031 I just redid. The paint is PPG automotive urethane Omni MTK. It is a one stage paint no clear coat. I did another one about 10 years ago it still looks great.
 

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I use old bearings that i cut and knocked the centers out and pushed them in bores too blast and powder
Also a silcone stopper in seal area

All gasket get taped and threaded holes are plugged

7a05accec347a8e72b30d5a4983b2bdc.jpg

0bbdb947613cea37e9817065e4b15b1b.jpg

6b541e5f93ac17bd96a21554019cf3d7.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It'd be kinda hard for me to put something that clean into the work line-up. Very nice
I believe there are two Ford grays. The Light Ford Gray from TSC is the match. This is a farm implement paint so it should be as tough as you can get from a rattle can. When they say it takes 24 hours to dry, they aren't kidding. The only way to get real fuel resistance is with 2 part epoxy or powder coating. I give the Light Ford Gray a couple of light coats of Helmsman clear semi-gloss spar urethane for a little more protection. If you go too heavy with this clear, it starts to yellow.
Yesir your correct. I waz looking at my can and it says pre 1965 then realized there are 2 colors. Luckily I have more saws with translucent tanks but I dont mind a little touch up here and there. I'm one of those weird guys that doesn't pour gas like pouring beer into a mug. I hardly every spill. I might even look into a different clear to avoid the yellowing or maybe just go without. I use mine so often they'll only be perfect after reassembly. The only saw I might consider using less is my 066 red-light but only it oem parts become impossible to get in a few years or something. She just runs so good though with a bb jug.
 
These are reportedly the GERMAN paint codes for Stihl paint, I don't know how to translate to American paint codes. Old Stihl white is German paint code RAL 7035. Old Stihl Red/Orange is RAL 3000. New Stihl orange is RAL 2004. New Stihl white is RAL 9010. Hope this helps.
 
I use old bearings that i cut and knocked the centers out and pushed them in bores too blast and powder
Also a silcone stopper in seal area

All gasket get taped and threaded holes are plugged

7a05accec347a8e72b30d5a4983b2bdc.jpg

0bbdb947613cea37e9817065e4b15b1b.jpg

6b541e5f93ac17bd96a21554019cf3d7.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Glock, you and WI both did incredible jobs it looks like on your projects. I figure you would be a great source to ask.
I’m brand new to powder coating and I’m completely rebuilding an 044 and an 066.
I’m going to practice on some bolts and random things first to get a feel but I’m having a hard time finding that light green transparent tape you used to tape the gaskets with that is well recommended. All of the ones I’ve looked up have a lot of complaints about them shrinking.
Do you have a particular brand that you prefer?
Also, when I outgas I’ve read to do that at 450 before letting it cool and beginning the powder coating, however according to Eastwood some magnesium alloys can be weakened at that temp. Both of those saws are magnesium cases I’ve read, so have you had any issue with those temps on any saws you’ve done? Thank you!
 
Just got back from the powder coater today. I think he did an AMAZING JOB. If anybody is interested I will see if he will do it for you guys!
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I know this is an old post but this powder coat looks great! I live near WashPA...where is your powder coater located?
 
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