Stihl "Plastic" Saw - Oil Pump Removal & Installation

[SteveSr]

Hello,

I needed to do this to swap crankcases but didn't have the $120 Stihl special tool (1122 890 2202) so I had to make my own... from readily available hardware store items.

Here is the pump remover:



Pipe nipple - 1/8" x 2" with the threads removed and drilled out with a 21/64" drill bit
Screw - M5 x 0.8
Washer - M5 fender washer (Large O.D.)
Nut - M5 x 0.8 (not Shown)

Here is the pump install tool:



M5 x 0.8 screw
Niut spacer - Roller from a piece of bicycle chain - Use your imagination!
M5 washer
Qty 2 - M5 x 0.8 nuts

PUMP REMOVAL
Pump is installed at a precise depth depending on the saw model and must be re-installed at the same depth to line up the pump exit hole on the crankcase.

For the 021/023/025 this depth is 4.5mm (0.176")

Set the install tool for this depth with calipers:




For other saws where the install depth is not known (yet) you must use the tool on the installed pump to set the reinstall depth.

Set install depth before removing old pump:


1. Loosen the locknut arrangement and snug the screw into the bottom of the pump.
2. Finger tighten the nuts against the washer and crankcase.
3. Use TWO wrenches to tighten the locknuts so you don't inadvertently disturb the pump position.
4. Remove the install tool from the bottom of the pump.



Install the removal tool and snug up the screw.


Use a wrench to tighten the nut which pulls the pump out of the crankcase.

INSTALL THE PUMP


Screw the install tool (preset to the correct depth) into the bottom of the pump.


Hand start the pump installation paying attention to the position of the oil feed slot in the side of the pump.


Use a press or small hammer to tap the pump home and then remove the install tool. You're done!

 

[Chris-PA]

Nice write up - I like home made tools!

As to the design, it's classic Stihl: they managed to make it cheap and needlessly complicated at the same time, for no benefit. With a plastic Poulan it's 2 screws.

 

[Philbert]

Nice design.
Nice write up.
Clear photos.

Thanks!

Philbert

 

[SteveSr]

Nice write up - I like home made tools!

As to the design, it's classic Stihl: they managed to make it cheap and needlessly complicated at the same time, for no benefit. With a plastic Poulan it's 2 screws.

It is only complicated if you have to remove/replace a pump *without* their special tool!

 

[SteveSr]

Need one more piece of information to make the post complete...

The Stihl tool comes with 3 install inserts of differing depths-

1123 - 4.5mm (021/023/025 maybe others)
1123/01 - 6.1mm (MS210/MS250 maybe others)
1130 - ?.?mm (017?/018?/MS170?/MS180?)

Anyone with an 1130 saw and a set of calipers care to measure the pump insert depth?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The one I did had a little shoulder inside the plastic hole. The pump would only go so far then it stopped.

 

[SteveSr]

The one I did had a little shoulder inside the plastic hole. The pump would only go so far then it stopped.

Stihl may have added a molded stop on newer crankcases. There was no molded stop on the 021/025 cases that I recently worked on.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I'm thinking that Stihl didn't put that shoulder there, it was probably one of the older saws and it eventually settled in and made it's own place in the plastic.

 

[rynosawr]

I really like the pump press and install tool.



I had an MS180C that wasn't oiling worth a darn. My clean bar and chain was getting hot and tight, and things weren't right. There were lots of bubbles coming out of the oiling hole on the saw body, but not much oil at all.



I pulled the pickup hose off the bottom of the pump, and it wasn't super tight, but I haven't messed with this kind before, so I wasn't sure.....

Then, I got ready to pull the pump with a long 5mm bolt.

Next, I bottomed out the bolt in the pump, measured the height to the top of the bolt head from the flat part of the bottom of the case near the pickup hole with digital calipers, then, clamped onto the bolt with some locking pliers and tapped on the pliers to pull it out.

I cleaned the pump out and didn't see any issues with it at all and no wear on the shaft or gear to speak of. It spun nice and smooth and looked good. I then blew through the case where the oil usually comes out, didn't really see any trash to speak of at all.

I installed the pump back in by gently tapping on the install bolt and got it to the same depth that it was at when I measured it when removing it, making sure that the pump outlet side was properly indexed to the case hole for the oiler circuit.

I tested the old pump pickup hose for vacuum and it held fine, but, because it also has to seal to the body of the case near the pump, I questioned if it was sucking air at that location.

I had bought a new oil pickup hose for $6..... and decided I should install it just in case, as nothing else really seemed evident to be causing a problem. I cleaned the oil inlet filter and nothing much came out, then I installed it onto the new hose.

To install the new oil pickup hose, lube the nub and groove with a little grease where it goes into the oil tank. I didn't pull the whole saw apart to install the little oil pickup tube( I am not spending that much time on a 180, I am too lazy... haha), I just worked the nub back into place gently with a pick and screwdriver. This is one of the softest and flimsiest oil pickup tubes made, it is pitiful; be careful of tearing a hole in the tube if you don't disassemble the saw body to get to the oil tank.

I put a little grease on the end of the hose and inserted it back into the pump inlet and saw body.

Filled it up with oil and started it up.

I had oil right away, with no bubbles!

Threw the bar and chain back on and I was painting oil stripes on my test wood in just a few seconds!

Just thought I would share.

 

[backhoelover]

i just bought the oil installer tools. it was 120.00 about 2 years ago. i just got it a few months ago and it was 60.00

 

[backhoelover]

42.80 is dealer cost

 

[backhoelover]

here is measurement and other info needed

 

[SteveSr]

here is measurement and other info needed
View attachment 521805

Thanks for trying but that is the wrong dimension! The small end measured goes into the bottom of the pump to guide it but doesn't determine the pump depth.

The pump depth is determined by the next larger shoulder to the left. The left side bottoms on the crankcase while the right bottoms on the bottom of the oil pump effectively setting the pump depth.

 

[Chris-PA]

Why on earth would they have designed a pump that has to be inserted to some controlled depth, and not molded in a stop? That's nuts. Don't they have any competent engineers to review such designs and prevent such a dumb error from getting into production?

Quality, or lack thereof, begins at the design.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

A lot of Stihl stuff is trial and error.

 

[backhoelover]

sorry i thought i had a pic of that also. guess i didnt take a pic. the measurement is 3mm

 

[backhoelover]

Thanks for trying but that is the wrong dimension! The small end measured goes into the bottom of the pump to guide it but doesn't determine the pump depth.

The pump depth is determined by the next larger shoulder to the left. The left side bottoms on the crankcase while the right bottoms on the bottom of the oil pump effectively setting the pump depth.

sorry i thought i had a pic of that also. guess i didnt take a pic. the measurement is 3mm

 

[SteveSr]

sorry i thought i had a pic of that also. guess i didnt take a pic. the measurement is 3mm

This doesn't sound right. 3mm is only about 1/8". The photos that I have seen of the tool show the 1130 insert to be deeper than the 1123/01 which is 6.1mm. I would expect the 1130 to be in the 7-8mm range. Can you please check the zero on your calipers and taker another look?

 

[backhoelover]

sorry it is 8mm i guess i didnt zero out calipers

 

[backhoelover]