Stihl shutting off

[Westboastfaller]

The saw is actually inside the cabin for tonight. I’d like to have it inside all the time but with 2 kids in a small cabin, I don’t blame my wife for not liking the idea. I’m fairly new to all this so I’m learning as I go.

Really, thank you to all who have replied. You guys are great and I appreciate it. When I have the chance (I didn’t his afternoon, probably Saturday morning), I’ll bring up all these replies and have my saw in front of me.

I’m a little intimated as I didn’t grow up with stuff like this. Born and raised a city boy for 25 years until I decided I want to get my hands dirty.

Unfortunately we are just starting off so I’m not fortunate enough to have a heated garage or shop. We’re currently planning our off grid homestead so hopefully in a couple years max. Have a lot to do before then.

We are not intimidating but your situation is.
No worries brother ..we ALL have your back.
Lots of guys with different expertise that you can PM if you feel. Srry I couldn't answer you in F&L section. I still may help but as said, you have to get those questions answerd locally.

all my best

 

[Trapper_Pete]

I think the adjustment that your looking for is on page 44 of your manual https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent...ls/STIHL-MS-250-Owners-Instruction-Manual.pdf

the saw starts and if you can keep it running with just a little throttle the LA screw can be turned till the chain moves then back it off just till the chain stops and the saw stays running
if it is also sluggish to respond to the the throttle see the L screw setting

 

[Saiso]

I think the adjustment that your looking for is on page 44 of your manual https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent...ls/STIHL-MS-250-Owners-Instruction-Manual.pdf

the saw starts and if you can keep it running with just a little throttle the LA screw can be turned till the chain moves then back it off just till the chain stops and the saw stays running
if it is also sluggish to respond to the the throttle see the L screw setting

That’s great, I’ll give it a go tomorrow or Saturday morning. It’s going to be -30 Celsius tonight/tomorrow morning and the saw is inside, does the temperature difference affect anything when setting these screws?

 

[cantoo]

It might help if you do store it inside if you can seal it up inside of a big garbage bag? Might keep some of the gas smell down.

 

[Trapper_Pete]

yes temp does effect them if you want it to run at -30 start it at -30 and set it while cold.

if you go from warm moist to -30 you can put a frost on everything a minute out the door.

I brought one of my saws in the other day to sharpen the chain , yes at the dining room table , my garage is unheated it was -20C , I put down card board and an old sheet over the table , it was inside for about 40 minutes it warmed up enough that it had a frost on it and when I went to start it with my normal cold start procedure of using the choke I flooded it , had to pull the plug and pull it over a few times then put the plug in and fired right up.

when you bring a cold saw inside a warm house your also getting warm moist air in your gas tank and when you take it outside it can condense and cause water in your gas.

as well gas expands when brought in the house warm gas and cold air are not what your saw should be set for.

you use it cold leave it cold

we do the same thing with our guns hunting we leave them locked in the truck or at lunch just leaned up against the house in and out they condense water on them when brought in and freeze when taken back out.


that is my opinion and it may vary form others but the reasoning seams sound to me moisture inside your saw = bad and in and out makes moisture inside your saw.

 

[Natster]

Not to offend anybody, but I highly recommend star tron. EBay, or wal mart. Its really useful.
N

 

[Trapper_Pete]

Not to offend anybody, but I highly recommend star tron. EBay, or wal mart. Its really useful.
N

I keep hearing how good startron is I ordered a jug of it from farm and fleet 9.99 to treat 128 gallons seems almost too good to be true but I figured with all the good I keep hearing it is worth a try.

 

[Saiso]

So guys, Saturday morning my son will be at my in-laws so I’m gonna take the time to « set it for winter ». That said, I’ll still have limited time as I would also like to get out and cut for a couple hours.

The saw will have been inside for the last 2 days and outside temperatures are around -25 to -30 Celsius with wind chill. Normally temperatures are around-10 to -18 Celsius during the day. What and how would I do this? Do I have to let it sit outside for a bit?

I’m also going to clean my air filter today. Good idea? Bad?

I have my manual out for the shutter. I’ll read that when my son naps today.

Instead of repeating yourselves just direct me to the reply or username.

Thank you very much! And sorry for the kindergarten questions.

 

[farmer steve]

@Sasio . If you clean your filter with soap and water make sure it is DRY BEFORE USING.

 

[Trapper_Pete]

@Sasio . with dry filter installed and shutter in winter position set your saw outside for an hour or two. read page 44 of your manual https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent...ls/STIHL-MS-250-Owners-Instruction-Manual.pdf

if it was running fine while cutting only having an issue idling in the cold , you likely only need to adjust the LA screw.
with the chain unlocked and the saw running but on a stump, ground or flat surface where the chain can not contact anything damaging or you.
turn the LA screw clockwise till the chain starts moving then back it off counter clockwise till the chain stops moving.
the saw should now sit and idle even in the cold weather as cold as it was when you set it.
if things warm up in a few weeks and the chain spins while idling repeat the process.

this should only take a few minutes and then you should be ready to go cut.

if you like a video showing this https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ty-falling-safety-videos.328349/#post-6776807 video 3 of 17 it is at the 11 minute mark

 

[Saiso]

@Sasio . with dry filter installed and shutter in winter position set your saw outside for an hour or two. read page 44 of your manual https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent...ls/STIHL-MS-250-Owners-Instruction-Manual.pdf

if it was running fine while cutting only having an issue idling in the cold , you likely only need to adjust the LA screw.
with the chain unlocked and the saw running but on a stump, ground or flat surface where the chain can not contact anything damaging or you.
turn the LA screw clockwise till the chain starts moving then back it off counter clockwise till the chain stops moving.
the saw should now sit and idle even in the cold weather as cold as it was when you set it.
if things warm up in a few weeks and the chain spins while idling repeat the process.

this should only take a few minutes and then you should be ready to go cut.

if you like a video showing this https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ty-falling-safety-videos.328349/#post-6776807 video 3 of 17 it is at the 11 minute mark

Wow great explanation

I’ll do that first thing tomorrow mid-morning then hopefully cut for a few hours after that!

Thanks everyone

 

[Mike Hunterts]

We are not intimidating but your situation is.
No worries brother ..we ALL have your back.
Lots of guys with different expertise that you can PM if you feel. Srry I couldn't answer you in F&L section. I still may help but as said, you have to get those questions answerd locally.

all my best

Awwwww, aren't you a sweaty

 

[Saiso]

So I just went cut for 2.5 hours and the saw ran well. No issues.

I cleaned my air filter and also played a little with the LA screw. I’ll change my spark plug sometime this week.

Thank you to everyone! I learned a lot just in this one post and I’m very grateful.

Attached pictures are a RM that I encountered today. Not a huge tree by any means but it reminded me that a bigger saw wouldn’t be a bad idea (or at least a bigger bar)

 

[Trapper_Pete]

the 45cc saw really shouldn't be pulling any larger than a 16 inch bar

if you want to go bigger , bigger saw.

you can cut larger wood with a smaller bar especial on leaner like that if you use a bore cut and trigger.

you cut your notch , then bore cut in setting up the hinge and you leave a trigger at the back of the tree to hold it .

you now have all the fiber cut you want , you are able to take your time setting the hinge and when your ready you take the trigger which is about 10-15% that you left at the back edge , you take it just like a normal felling cut but you only get about 1.5 or 2 inches in and it releases the tree to follow it's lean.

 

[Saiso]

the 45cc saw really shouldn't be pulling any larger than a 16 inch bar

if you want to go bigger , bigger saw.

you can cut larger wood with a smaller bar especial on leaner like that if you use a bore cut and trigger.

you cut your notch , then bore cut in setting up the hinge and you leave a trigger at the back of the tree to hold it .

you now have all the fiber cut you want , you are able to take your time setting the hinge and when your ready you take the trigger which is about 10-15% that you left at the back edge , you take it just like a normal felling cut but you only get about 1.5 or 2 inches in and it releases the tree to follow it's lean.

Ok I’ll try that on another big tree. When it’s too big for my bar I normally plunge cut (bore?) and walk around the tree until it falls. I’m not too familiar with terms and cutting methods but so far, it’s been working well.

I took my chainsaw course years ago but they never showed us anything other than the traditional cut and plunge cut.

I’ve been trying the open face and Humbolt method but still unsure. I’m more of a visual person. It’s a shame you guys are so far

So you’re telling me to keep 1.5 or so inches at the back as holding wood. Do my regular first cut at the front, do a plunge/bore cut until everything inside is cut except the 1.5 inches, inspect the tree and finish off by taking away the holding wood of 1.5 inches?

And thank you for all your replies. You’ve been a great help

 

[Trapper_Pete]

better to think in percent of a trees fiber than inches.

you leave a hinge of 10% on strong fiber if you think the fiber is compromised like root rot , you should see/feel this in the undercut , then you leave more hinge
your bark does not count in this %

a video on bore cut and trigger



the danger in leaning trees is that they split as your making the back cut but if they are still held in place you can take your time setting up the hinge and since the tree doesn't move while your taking out the heart wood . it is less likely to split.

video 8 of 17 covers under cuts , I am a fan of the Swanson but there are times for others I like how after breaking the hinge more than 45* over it slides off the stump I want that weigh on the ground and not still hanging in the stump. https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chainsaw-safety-falling-safety-videos.328349/

 

[Be Stihl]

Sounds like the carb may need a cleaning, having to use the choke is a sign of not enough fuel. That’s where I would start, pop the carb off give it a clean and a new fuel filter.


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[Saiso]

Sounds like the carb may need a cleaning, having to use the choke is a sign of not enough fuel. That’s where I would start, pop the carb off give it a clean and a new fuel filter.


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Sounds perhaps easy, but I’ve never done that before so I wouldn’t exactly know what I’m doing ... I’ll keep that in mind for if and when the saw starts acting up again. Thank you