Stihl "synthetic" mix. "Biodegradeable" really means Useless in a week after mixed?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Right you are. Supposedly, mineral oils would leave sludge that would coat the (4 stroke) internal surfaces. When a syn was used, it's more detergent qualities would break free the accumulated sludge, which might clog an oil passage (usually in the lifter bores ,solid lifters being more prone to scuff cam and lifter face if marginal oil film).
That was somewhat true 40 some years ago. Not so much today.
 
However Teflon is harmless…it was banned by environuts simply because…
You should research the hazards of microparticles before making a statement like that. While the hazards are not well understood, there are probable links to various cancers and chronic inflammation syndrome.
 
I just started using sable with true fuel 4 cycle fuel .
Anybody have and comment ? Please advise me

Running 4 stroke canned fuel and your own oil is a fantastic way to get exactly the oil you want, at exactly the ratio you want, with the long term stability of canned fuel.

I don't have any experience with Amsoil, although a lot of people seem to like it. Not a fan of their marketing or sales practices, and for any product they make, there are lots of other equally or better rated alternates, at a lower price, and much more easily available.
 
Mix ratios?
Fuel?
What kind of oil?
What brand of oil?
Regular or synthetic?
Run only what it has had run in it, ( Mineral) , or risk changing to synthetic?

Darn.. I never knew that something so simple, could be made so complicated!

Mix ratio.. Amsoil Saber, with premium (94 Octane, or 91 Octane, depending on how it gets rated), Ethanol free fuel.. 70 to 1 .. Sure.. Amsoil says that you can go 100 to 1,. but at 70 to 1, never fouled a plug, never fouled a spark arrester. Ran that ratio in everything. Everything in my business. .. No exceptions. From Lawnboys that were supposed to have 32 to 1 mix, to all my classic Stihls, and all my Echos'. I've got stuff that was over 20 years old when I bought them, to stuff I bought brand new, Never an issue. Old school Stihls that I now use to slab.. never an issue. I finally have to repair a 15 year old Echo P.A.S. 225 power head.. The rubber primer bulb, has finally failed, ( cracked ).. The bulb is still soft, because I don't use gas with Ethanol in it, but, it's only going to punched, get whooped so many times. Now I need to put my thumb over the crack in the primer bulb, to make it run. I'll be buying my "Day One" ( bought before I started my Landscaping Business( .power head a new bit the next time I go to the Dealership, when I go to pick up 5 pounds of trimmer string. It gets a new plug every three or five years.. Not because it doesn't run right, just because I figure it deserves it, for never having let me down. Air cleaner? Whack it with the air nozzle on the compressor, and it's good to go for another year or two. Probably well over 500 tanks of fuel through it.. I've tried to beat it to death.. But, I just can't. S.O.B., just won't die.

Fuel? Nothing ever but Premium, Ethanol Free Premium, Nothing else. Ever. Toss in a splash of Seafoam, and away we go.

Oil? Amsoil premium synthetic. Nothing else, ever.
 
What is the mechanism that makes an engine know that it has gone back to dino oil, and should self destruct now?

Oil leaks used to be a concern when switching to synthetic. Think dino detergents have caught up now, though.
At this point, and for many years now, it's nothing but an old wives tail. They interchange with zero issues.
 
At this point, and for many years now, it's nothing but an old wives tail. They interchange with zero issues.

Yep, all of my vehicles would have self destructed a long time ago if this were the case. The 617 in my Yota used to get switched twice a year - 5w-40 syn for easy winter starts, 15w-40 dino because it was cheaper during the summer. My gassers get switched back and forth depending on whatever is cheaper when I need oil.

What about oils that are synthetic blend?
 
What is the mechanism that makes an engine know that it has gone back to dino oil, and should self destruct now?

Oil leaks used to be a concern when switching to synthetic. Think dino detergents have caught up now, though.
The oil leaking thing was mostly an issue with early ester based oils. Seal materials have been upgraded long ago and modern oils contain very little or no ester.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top