Still Dead 361

[greengoblin]

I see you are still in here RCR, get out there and fire that puppy up!

 

[RCR 3 EVER]

I have been going back in forth to garage and computer. All I can say is THANK GOODNESS for this forum!!
Proceeded with Andy's and everyone's suggestions to hang in there. After cleaning out the saw of flooded gas and drying everything out. Put the choke into warm start position and it started after 2 pulls!!! After letting it warm up I stopped it and it restarted with 1 pull.

Tomorrow I'l try a cold start. It sounds as I should be using the warm start position even though it is first start of the day and it depends more on air temp since gas is in the chambers, is that right?

Any way I am now 1 dead Ash tree short in our view of the back yard.

Oh and for I am keeping this saw and not trading it in

Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!:biggrinbounce2:

 

[greengoblin]

Well, I'm glad that you got the saw started but now you need to let us know how it cut compared to the old saw of your dads!

 

[RCR 3 EVER]

Dealer filled saw with all vital fluids yesterday.
We are going to cabin for a week in the woods (Vacation?) and cutting trees. We will be using all the saws and I will compare mine to them and maybe have a sawoff
Will let you know, was the choke question correct in assumption?

 

[Tzed250]

Cold start position first pull. The choke plate being closed is what draws the starting mixture.

 

[greengoblin]

Dealer filled saw with all vital fluids yesterday.
We are going to cabin for a week in the woods (Vacation?) and cutting trees. We will be using all the saws and I will compare mine to them and maybe have a sawoff
Will let you know, was the choke question correct in assumption?

No, not really! When I got my first stihl, I had the same problem as you. I usually gave it a couple pulls full choke and then turned it up one notch. At first it is hard to hear the "pop" when trying to fire it up but you will get it. I did anyway, now i choke it until the "pop" and flick it up one and she fires right up. Btw, if you run it out of gas, use the warm start method. I didnt and it gave me fits for a while. I flooded it a couple times trying to choke it after i ran it out of gas. The best solution, dont run it out of gas.

 

[chowdozer]

I have been going back in forth to garage and computer. All I can say is THANK GOODNESS for this forum!!
Proceeded with Andy's and everyone's suggestions to hang in there. After cleaning out the saw of flooded gas and drying everything out. Put the choke into warm start position and it started after 2 pulls!!! After letting it warm up I stopped it and it restarted with 1 pull.

Tomorrow I'l try a cold start. It sounds as I should be using the warm start position even though it is first start of the day and it depends more on air temp since gas is in the chambers, is that right?

Any way I am now 1 dead Ash tree short in our view of the back yard.

Oh and for I am keeping this saw and not trading it in

Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!:biggrinbounce2:

Woohooo!
Glad you got going.
After running it on your week of vacation you'll be starting it like a pro.

 

[GASoline71]

I just tried andy's suggestion to turn saw upside down and and gas poured out the hole as I pulled it over. Is this normal and now saw,floor and hands are soaked?

It's normal for a flooded saw yes... when you learn to start the saw you won't have that problem. I don't even use the decomp on my 361... don't need it.

If you are using the decomp... while you are pullin' the first few times, if you hear the faintes little pop or burble... don't pull the cord again with it on full choke... it will flood.

You have to get used to hearing that little "pop"... or try not using the decomp altoghether.

Gary

 

[SawTroll]

Dealer filled saw with all vital fluids yesterday.
We are going to cabin for a week in the woods (Vacation?) and cutting trees. We will be using all the saws and I will compare mine to them and maybe have a sawoff
Will let you know, was the choke question correct in assumption?

I hope that you bring more fuel mix and bar oil, if you are going to cut for a week....

Take it back to the dealer for a carb adjustment check-up when it is reasonably run in, after 15-20 tanks or so......

 

[DaddyRabbit]

The way your luck is going you'll probably carry that Stihl over to your Dads only to have his saw eat yours for lunch opcorn: :jawdrop: That sure would make for a long drive back home.

Dealer filled saw with all vital fluids yesterday.
We are going to cabin for a week in the woods (Vacation?) and cutting trees. We will be using all the saws and I will compare mine to them and maybe have a sawoff
Will let you know, was the choke question correct in assumption?

 

[Just Mow]

The way your luck is going you'll probably carry that Stihl over to your Dads only to have his saw eat yours for lunch opcorn: :jawdrop: That sure would make for a long drive back home.

Not likely

 

[WRW]

Not likely

Ya just never know. Ol' Daddy-o may have a few tricks up his sleeve. :greenchainsaw:

 

[RCR 3 EVER]

I have been running that 621 quite a bit in those 34 years. Spent 1 summer thinning stand of pines every other row out, enough for several semi loads for pulp mill. 1 truck tipped over on our road on steep incline going up to main road and blocked road for nearly full day.
I can just test saws on same size logs myself and then tell Dad my opinion,although I am sure he will want to try it himself once it is running steadily.
One thing I did notice the bar drifts back and forth in making the initial ferf. I think this may be because I am used to a 4" shorter bar and not used to this light saw and longer bar with slightly more power than 621. It just takes getting used to and it started fine this morning.

 

[Log Splitter]

Glad you got her running, RCR. You'll really like the 361, all of us that run one do.

I think what you are calling 'bar drift' is the saw moving on the antivibe mounts as it torques up. Unlike what you are used to running, a 361 really floats on these mounts. BTW, if you get the bar stuck, don't horse it loose or you might break an A/V mount. You really should never do that anyway, but it's especially important on a modern saw. Wedges work great for getting a bar out of a bind, I always carry them in my back pockets so they are available if needed.

Good luck!

 

[greengoblin]

I have been running that 621 quite a bit in those 34 years. Spent 1 summer thinning stand of pines every other row out, enough for several semi loads for pulp mill. 1 truck tipped over on our road on steep incline going up to main road and blocked road for nearly full day.
I can just test saws on same size logs myself and then tell Dad my opinion,although I am sure he will want to try it himself once it is running steadily.
One thing I did notice the bar drifts back and forth in making the initial ferf. I think this may be because I am used to a 4" shorter bar and not used to this light saw and longer bar with slightly more power than 621. It just takes getting used to and it started fine this morning.

Dont you feel stupid now that you got that thing running. Blaming it on the saw and all. I was you your exact position and cussing the saw like all get out. I know I felt stupid.

 

[greengoblin]

I think what you are calling 'bar drift' is the saw moving on the antivibe mounts as it torques up. Unlike what you are used to running, a 361 really floats on these mounts.
Good luck!

I dont know what is happening but what I thought when I first read this was that he isnt sticking the dawgs in the wood at first and the bar is dancing on the wood until the kerf is established.

 

[RCR 3 EVER]

It is fine when I stick the dawgs into the wood first, but when limbing the small branches off and dawgs can not be used effectively that is when the drifting occurs. Such as using mid portion to end of bar initial kerf is twice as wide as it supposed to be until a kerf is established.

 

[greengoblin]

It is fine when I stick the dawgs into the wood first, but when limbing the small branches off and dawgs can not be used effectively that is when the drifting occurs. Such as using mid portion to end of bar initial kerf is twice as wide as it supposed to be until a kerf is established.

I suppose that you will learn to live with it wont you :hmm3grin2orange: ...so how does it stack up so far...I expect that it cuts a little faster but not quite as torquey, a little more finicky in the cut.

 

[SawTroll]

Not likely

I have both, so i can attest that the 361 will outcut that ol' Jred by some margin, with good chains on both.

Imo 20" is a bit much on the 361 for good balance and nimbleness - so he should get a shorter bar with RSC (not RSC3) chains to compliment it (and some spare RM (not RM2) if he has "dirty" wood).

 

[GASoline71]

It is fine when I stick the dawgs into the wood first, but when limbing the small branches off and dawgs can not be used effectively that is when the drifting occurs. Such as using mid portion to end of bar initial kerf is twice as wide as it supposed to be until a kerf is established.

You must be reefing on the saw for it to "drift"... you're loading up the AV mounts... let the saw do the work... or sharpen your chain.

Gary