stubborn bolts

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bombdude

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OK, guys, having a problem removing my pocket bolts on my 352. New machine, first time removing.

1. My little air impact gun is useless

2. Breaker bar w/4' cheater pipe, my 185 lb butt bouncing on it, still useless.

3. Put the torch to it, reapply method #2 & finally budge 2 bolts after the pockets are cherry red.

However, they don't come all the way out. They get so far, & stop coming out. Just spin freely as if stripped. They won't tighten back up either.

So I take it to the dealer. Luckily he's close by. He says I need a bigger impact wrench (no joke, bonehead) Also says I stripped the bolts when I took them out. How you strip bolt taking it out is beyond me. I didn't over-tighten them, I just loosened them.

Anyway, he cuts them off the rest of the way with a torch & gives me new pockets & bolts & installs them with his bigger impact wrench.

So I go to the Home Depot across the street & look at impact wrenches. I find a 450 ft lb electric model. I like the portability of electric, & 450 ft lb should do the job as the factory specs call for 250-270. So I thought...

I get home, & nothing. I can remove & re-install the new bolts the dealer put on, but the remaining originals from the factory, which is all but the 2 new ones are still "one with the wheel". Tried Liquid Wrench overnite, same results.

Kinda leery of putting the torch to it again. Don't wanna go through that process again, if it had anything to do with my "stripping" the bolt in the first place.

What are y'all's experiences/thoughts??

I know, it's a novel of a post. Just wanted y'all to feel my pain here.
 
i have an 2005 352 my bolts are always a pita i have to watch them sometime the bolts get worn down to much and i have to have the pockets torched off i usually swap the teeth about 100hrs. i use a torque wrench to loosen and tighten the bolts. i will try the anti seize though thanks
 
Here is the trick - whack the pocket with a ball peen (??) hammer. Smack it on the pair once on each side - bolt turn easily.

I guess the shock busts them loose - always works for me, let me know how it does for you.
 
By far the best penetrating parts loosener I've used is called "P B Blaster." I've been amazed by that stuff. Spray it on, let it set for as long as you can--at least 20 minutes--tap the bolt head with a hammer periodically while the stuff is soaking, and then try getting it out. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. It's worked for me on exhaust flange bolts that we're completely rusted. A little heat from a torch helps too.
 
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OK, guys, having a problem removing my pocket bolts on my 352. New machine, first time removing.

1. My little air impact gun is useless

2. Breaker bar w/4' cheater pipe, my 185 lb butt bouncing on it, still useless.

3. Put the torch to it, reapply method #2 & finally budge 2 bolts after the pockets are cherry red.

However, they don't come all the way out. They get so far, & stop coming out. Just spin freely as if stripped. They won't tighten back up either.

So I take it to the dealer. Luckily he's close by. He says I need a bigger impact wrench (no joke, bonehead) Also says I stripped the bolts when I took them out. How you strip bolt taking it out is beyond me. I didn't over-tighten them, I just loosened them.

Anyway, he cuts them off the rest of the way with a torch & gives me new pockets & bolts & installs them with his bigger impact wrench.

So I go to the Home Depot across the street & look at impact wrenches. I find a 450 ft lb electric model. I like the portability of electric, & 450 ft lb should do the job as the factory specs call for 250-270. So I thought...

I get home, & nothing. I can remove & re-install the new bolts the dealer put on, but the remaining originals from the factory, which is all but the 2 new ones are still "one with the wheel". Tried Liquid Wrench overnite, same results.

Kinda leery of putting the torch to it again. Don't wanna go through that process again, if it had anything to do with my "stripping" the bolt in the first place.

What are y'all's experiences/thoughts??

I know, it's a novel of a post. Just wanted y'all to feel my pain here.

i don't have that problem!!!!! my 170 pound ass gets them off just fine....


1: DITCH THE AIR GUN AND THE ELECTRIC IMPACT GUN !!!!!

2: GET A TORQUE WRENCH FROM HOME DEPOT,,, UNDER SIXTY BUCKS,, MADE BY HUSKY...... MAXES OUT AT 250 FOOT POUNDS..... TIGHTEN THE BOLTS EVENLY......

3: DON'T USE YOUR TORQUE WRENCH TO UNDO THE BOLTS,,,, HARBOR FRIEGHT,,, HAS A 30 INCH 1/2 INCH DRIVE BREAKER BAR FOR ABOUT $12...

4: ORDER HEX SOCKETS FROM "MC MASTER CARR" ( THEY HAVE A WEB SITE) CHEAPER,,, YOU CAN GET REPLACEMENT KEYS FOR THE SOCKET

5: DUMP THE TORCH !!!!!!!!!!! IF YOU CAN'T GET THEM OFF,,, TAKE A 1/2 INCH DRILL BIT,,, DRILL WHERE YOU WOULD PUT THE ALLEN KEY IN.... THE HEAD WILL POP OFF,,,, 9 TIMES OUT OF TEN,,, THE OTHER BOLT WILL SPIN OUT.....THE POCKETS ARE A FLEX LOCKING DESIGN....

hope this helps,,,,, impact guns have thier place,,, but its not on stump grinder wheels,, or chipper blades!!!!!!
 
Bombdude - go out there and hit them - takes about a second!!! Let me know!
 
don't know if anyone has said this but you stripped the thread by heating to cherry red - i've done this before. IMO get a torque wrench for tightening, definitaly, and a 1" thick strong arm bar about 2' long for undoing. Make an extension for the bar out of 1 1/2" steel pipe. Replace bolts every now and then. Use anti-seize. Never under torque. Hitting a bar or driver with a hammer has never really worked for me, leverage always works. Don't overtorque too much either. good luck


edit : ahhh, 4 foot leverage and still nothing? go 8 foot lol.
 
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also possibly conect breaker bar to a vehicle and drive away (hopefully laughing)
 
Well, I finally got them off.

The trick was the breaker bar/cheater pipe combo & ball peen hammer. I applied all my weight to the pipe while my dad rapped the pocket w/the hammer. About every other hit w/the hammer, I'd feel a little give.

After about a 1/2 turn on the first bolt, the second would come out pretty easy, which supports the flex locking design that you mentioned, juststumps.

Never-seezed them up & re-torqued them back. Good to go.

Thanks for all y'all's input fellas. It's nice to have a source of good information out there.
 
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