Stump grinder wheel problem

[juttree]

My brother just bought an SC 1152 last year but one of the bolt holes on the wheel is now oval shaped and will break the bolt every time you grind. Anyone know a good remedy for this? I'm not sure about the warranty or even how it happened. I hardly ever do the grinding, just the climbing and bucket. I'm just trying to find out how to fix this before my brother let's the guys rattle this machine to death.

 

[flushcut]

How about drill the hole out bigger and weld in a some bar stock and re-tap.

 

[juttree]

[QOTE="flushcut, post: 4826618, member: 44110"]How about drill the hole out bigger and weld in a some bar stock and re-tap.[/QUOTE]
That's a good idea. I should have also added that this job would not be done by myself but by a guy that we have come to the shop to do any fabrication type repairs. It hasn't been brought to his attention yet but I thought I'd try and see if I could get some good ideas here and just pass them on to him.
What do you think the running the machine with such a bad vibration from a broken bolt would eventually do to it?

 

[BC WetCoast]

Two options, buy a new wheel or weld the hole and redrill it. The latter will be easier and cheaper.

You can run without the bolt, but take out a corresponding bolt on the other side of the wheel to balance it (or 2 other bolts if it is a 3 way tooth pattern).

Stump grinders try and vibrate themselves to pieces at the best of times. Running with a tooth missing is reckless and bound to cause significant damage - busted cutter wheel bearings, motor mounts, electrical connections just to name a few.

An oval tooth hole in the wheel is usually caused by running with loose teeth (or age). Before every job, you should check every tooth for tightness.

 

[juttree]

Two options, buy a new wheel or weld the hole and redrill it. The latter will be easier and cheaper.

You can run without the bolt, but take out a corresponding bolt on the other side of the wheel to balance it (or 2 other bolts if it is a 3 way tooth pattern).

Stump grinders try and vibrate themselves to pieces at the best of times. Running with a tooth missing is reckless and bound to cause significant damage - busted cutter wheel bearings, motor mounts, electrical connections just to name a few.

An oval tooth hole in the wheel is usually caused by running with loose teeth (or age). Before every job, you should check every tooth for tightness.

Thank you very much for your reply.

 

[Topbuilder]

I would weld the face with 7018 or equal and grind flat. Die grind the hole clean. Pics would help. I don't think you need to fill the whole hole. What tooth system are you using? Converting to green teeth might eliminate the problem.

 

[juttree]

TE="Topbuilder, post: 4826972, member: 87118"]I would weld the face with 7018 or equal and grind flat. Die grind the hole clean. Pics would help. I don't think you need to fill the whole hole. What tooth system are you using? Converting to green teeth might eliminate the problem.[/QUOTE]
We're using yellow jacket. I've heard lots of good things about green teeth, do they really make a big difference? You don't need to switch to the green wheel to use them, right?

 

[Topbuilder]

I guess my answer to that would be biased since that is all I have used...
Quick to change to a sharp edge. I only get 2 edges to a tooth. The lead teeth do the majority of the work. I can run into a mess o' pines where you really need a sharp edge, change the 6 lead teeth and power on. Easy to change pockets as long as you used "never seize" when you assembled them. When you hit something hard one of the bolts will shear and the pockets rotate back. No damage to the wheel. I send mine out to be sharpened when I have 60 or so dull. As long as your wheel has the same 2 hole system as the Green pockets it should work. It will be a little pricy to change over...

 

[juttree]

I guess my answer to that would be biased since that is all I have used...
Quick to change to a sharp edge. I only get 2 edges to a tooth. The lead teeth do the majority of the work. I can run into a mess o' pines where you really need a sharp edge, change the 6 lead teeth and power on. Easy to change pockets as long as you used "never seize" when you assembled them. When you hit something hard one of the bolts will shear and the pockets rotate back. No damage to the wheel. I send mine out to be sharpened when I have 60 or so dull. As long as your wheel has the same 2 hole system as the Green pockets it should work. It will be a little pricy to change over...

My brother has been stump grinding with the tree company for probably 20yrs or so and has NEVER sharpened teeth. Its something that I am definitely going to start doing, its such a waste to just throw them out.

 

[Topbuilder]

Yeah, Greenteeth 1100s are $14 each. You can sharpen them 3-4 times for 3-3.50 each time. A sharp edge is easier on the machine and production. It would be the same as running a dull chain on his saw then throwing it away and putting on a new loop every week. Makes no sense.

 

[juttree]

[QUOTuilder, post: 4827047, member: 87118"]Yeah, Greenteeth 1100s are $14 each. You can sharpen them 3-4 times for 3-3.50 each time. A sharp edge is easier on the machine and production. It would be the same as running a dull chain on his saw then throwing it away and putting on a new loop every week. Makes no sense.[/QUOTE]
Good analogy, I'll definitely be telling that one to him.

 

[Topbuilder]

BTW "Jeff's Sharpening" (site sponsor) doe a good job with Greenteeth and also does Yellow Jackets. Good turn around time.

 

[juttree]

BTW "Jeff's Sharpening" (site sponsor) doe a good job with Greenteeth and also does Yellow Jackets. Good turn around time.

Thanks for the tip. I was also looking at getting a diamond wheel and doing it myself.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

You can sharpen your own green teeth with a drill press and a bench grinder. Green teeth shows you the setup on there website. Before I sold my machine, I sharpened my teeth alot more then 3 or 4 times. I would touch them up after every job.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[juttree]

[QOTE="2treeornot2tree, post: 4833723, member: 54589"]You can sharpen your own green teeth with a drill press and a bench grinder. Green teeth shows you the setup on there website. Before I sold my machine, I sharpened my teeth alot more then 3 or 4 times. I would touch them up after every job.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
I just checked out that video and that's a pretty neat way to do the sharpening. I think I need to get him to order atleast one set of the green teeth for the wheel so we can try them out (30 teeth)