Stump teeth sharpening

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John464

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Anyone know of where to get grinding wheels(diamond or green) that fit an angle grinder for touching up stump grinder teeth?

I know Bailey's and Ebay have the larger thicker wheels that fit on bench grinder. Instead of taking the teeth off Id like to get a wheel that fits my handheld angle grinder.
 
Check out foley belsaw, they might have that!


LXT.........
 
Should be able to get them from your local Vermeer dealer both bench and handheld. Pay the extra for the diamond version also do a search for a local supplier for a double sided 4" diamond disc it has dozen's of holes punched in the disc which allows you to see the carbide as you sharpen. Remember that green and diamond discs do not like to cut steel so remove the steel behind the carbide first if grinding the tip of the carbide or if not badly worn grind the face of the carbide.
 
Sandvik Teeth

Hi Scott, Sandvik has a couple of styles. Are you talking about the Duradisk type? If so I haven't geared up for that yet. I was looking at the tooth last night, and I can get the inventory I need to braze these teeth. I know the tooth is patented but the tip as far as I know isn't. If I thought I could get your business and others I would be willing to invest in them. Isn't the price for new ones around 12 dollars? I would like to keep your costs down to 50% of new. So give me a reply and maybe we can set something up. I am getting carbide that is harder and more wear resistant than orginial. I think a lot of Arborists are switching to the new Duradisk. Thanks Jim
 
Hi Scott, Sandvik has a couple of styles. Are you talking about the Duradisk type? If so I haven't geared up for that yet. I was looking at the tooth last night, and I can get the inventory I need to braze these teeth. I know the tooth is patented but the tip as far as I know isn't. If I thought I could get your business and others I would be willing to invest in them. Isn't the price for new ones around 12 dollars? I would like to keep your costs down to 50% of new. So give me a reply and maybe we can set something up. I am getting carbide that is harder and more wear resistant than orginial. I think a lot of Arborists are switching to the new Duradisk. Thanks Jim

You sure your replacement is harder than original? The guy that sharpens mine says they are VERY hard like a 8 out of 10. (However they rate carbide.)

Even at 50% of original price, I don't know if it will be worth it. I can get them sharpened (and sandblasted) for $3 each (by my next door neighbor, none the less.) and can have them sharpened at least 4 times before they are too small to use.

It would be nice to do for the broken ones but I've yet to catch it in time after breaking a tooth so that the tooth bed is still intact.
 
Harder?

Hi Scott, I have tested several types, Vermeer, Rayco, and X teeth and mine are harder than those. I still don't know what tooth you are using. There are many different grades of carbide, I am fortunate in that I get to choose which grade is working best. After you sharpen them three times, what do you do with them? If you have a pile of them maybe I can buy them from you to do some research with them. They must be very hard to have so much carbide overlap to allow three sharpenings. Most teeth have a small overlap thus the need to grind the steel away. Thanks Jim
 
I'm running the Sandvik Duradisk too. Get the same 3-4 sharpenings as Scott, but you have to relieve the steel behind the carbide to do it. So after a few sharpenings there isn't enough bed left to place new carbide. Besides, the dirt wears the shank of the tooth by that time too, so you just recycle them.

Sharpening 4 times brings the tooth price down to about $2.50, versus replacing the carbide every time it gets dull, so the math is pretty easy to do. I also agree with Scott that the few times I've lost a whole carbide or a piece just broke off if you don't catch it in a few minutes the shank where the carbide sets is toast, but it doesn't happen very often.

I sharpen my own with the green wheel on a bench grinder, not so bad when you get the right protective gear and learn the tricks.

Thanks,

Stumper63
 
I also agree with Scott that the few times I've lost a whole carbide or a piece just broke off if you don't catch it in a few minutes the shank where the carbide sets is toast, but it doesn't happen very often.

Happens more with 60 hp than with 25! :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Now I get it.

Hey Scott, I get it now. I thought you said you didn't grind steel. My mistake. By all means, grind steel and get three uses out of them. That is the only way. They look simple to grind as well. See, I know about your pet peeve about the usage of to,two,and too. You don't need a re-tipping quote, Scott, four crying out loud! Jim
 
My point of this thread wasnt to find the cheapest way to get new teeth or retipped. My point was to sharpen the teeth that are already on the wheel to save time and not waste time/money of putting on new teeth on when there is plenty of carbide left.

A new set of teeth can become dull very quickly with the Carlton 7015. I have been putting an entire new set of teeth on just about once a month. If I can prolong that to every three months by sharpening them on the grinder Id be way ahead of the game. In less time I could touch up a set of teeth than I could to take off, and put a new or retipped tooth back on.
 
My point of this thread wasnt to find the cheapest way to get new teeth or retipped. My point was to sharpen the teeth that are already on the wheel to save time and not waste time/money of putting on new teeth on when there is plenty of carbide left.

A new set of teeth can become dull very quickly with the Carlton 7015. I have been putting an entire new set of teeth on just about once a month. If I can prolong that to every three months by sharpening them on the grinder Id be way ahead of the game. In less time I could touch up a set of teeth than I could to take off, and put a new or retipped tooth back on.

What teeth do you use?
 
My point of this thread wasnt to find the cheapest way to get new teeth or retipped. My point was to sharpen the teeth that are already on the wheel to save time and not waste time/money of putting on new teeth on when there is plenty of carbide left.

A new set of teeth can become dull very quickly with the Carlton 7015. I have been putting an entire new set of teeth on just about once a month. If I can prolong that to every three months by sharpening them on the grinder Id be way ahead of the game. In less time I could touch up a set of teeth than I could to take off, and put a new or retipped tooth back on.

You get a month on a set of teeth. Wow. I feel I'm lucky if I don't have to sharpen (and replace broken ones) every 3 days.
 
Sharpening on wheel

I've never seen a green wheel that small. What kind of teeth are you using? Some, you have to grind the steel before you can get to the carbide. You have to use another metal wheel. Seems like a long timely process. Maybe you could make a date with your machine every month to change teeth, grease and maintain your money maker. Invest in good maintenance instead of short cuts. Operating your machine dull will put so much side pressure on the front wheel assembly that your bearings suffer, the whole bushing set up is getting heavy hydraulic fed pressure. You just pull a lever and you get hundreds of pounds of side to side pressure at the wheel. Be kind to your machine give it some new teeth. It deserves it. By the way, does anyone know what this machine is? Somebody gave it to me, thinking it was some old stump grinder. The tips on the wheel are like ends of lawn mower blades. I thought I would make welding art out of it. Anyway, I can't figure out how to up load from My Pictures. Anybody know how? Jim
 
I've never seen a green wheel that small. What kind of teeth are you using? Some, you have to grind the steel before you can get to the carbide. You have to use another metal wheel. Seems like a long timely process. Maybe you could make a date with your machine every month to change teeth, grease and maintain your money maker. Invest in good maintenance instead of short cuts. Operating your machine dull will put so much side pressure on the front wheel assembly that your bearings suffer, the whole bushing set up is getting heavy hydraulic fed pressure. You just pull a lever and you get hundreds of pounds of side to side pressure at the wheel. Be kind to your machine give it some new teeth. It deserves it. By the way, does anyone know what this machine is? Somebody gave it to me, thinking it was some old stump grinder. The tips on the wheel are like ends of lawn mower blades. I thought I would make welding art out of it. Anyway, I can't figure out how to up load from My Pictures. Anybody know how? Jim

touching up teeth in between replacements is not a short cut, its a way to prolong teeth and increase efficiency. Thats like saying when your chain on a chainsaw becomes dull we must replace or take it off the bar and put it on a chain grinder. Since the file was invented we are able to perform sharpenings without going through all that. To the same effect, all I need is a 4" green wheel and ill be one step ahead.
 
Have you tried your local Vermeer dealer as I suggested ? I had a dig around and found the name of the 4" diamond disc I have used and found the old package - "KAINDL" is the name and is german but surley by doing a net search you can find a local supplier ? I used it this afternoon to sharpen 40 + alpine magnum teeth add the 50 + done a couple of weeks ago and several sandvik teeth and it makes sense to use small diamond discs !
 
Dave,

Thanks so much for your help! Thats the info I need. Gonna google and see what I come up with
 

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