SUCCESS!!! Just repaired Stihl 045/056 Bosch electronic ignition!!!!!

[nolids]

If you go back a few posts you'll see I posted a link for a German SAEGENSPEZI ignition , then all you need is the Bosch flywheel.

Also, I did an eBay search fro a 56av flywheel and came up with 20 hits, but you need the flywheel part number to be make sure it is for a Bosch ignition to work with the above ignition.

 

[mdionne]

If you go back a few posts you'll see I posted a link for a German SAEGENSPEZI ignition , then all you need is the Bosch flywheel.

Also, I did an eBay search fro a 56av flywheel and came up with 20 hits, but you need the flywheel part number to be make sure it is for a Bosch ignition to work with the above ignition.

I’ve seen those but not sure if they’ll overheat like the original. It seems that foggysail’s fix does not. That’s why I’d like an original to work with.

Has anyone used the German Saegenspezi ignition?

Thanks, I’ll look again. Do you know if the SEM fanwheel fits the Bosch flywheel?

 

[56napco]

Hello all- I'm new to this site but looking to perform this repair on my 056. Having trouble finding just the right capacitor as shown- does anyone have one or two they would part with? Please let me know. Thank you

 

[Kfd518]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-PHILI...5mm-Film-Capacitor-222237852105-/163348594712

 

[56napco]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-PHILI...5mm-Film-Capacitor-222237852105-/163348594712

Thank you!

 

[hotshot]

I’ve seen those but not sure if they’ll overheat like the original. It seems that foggysail’s fix does not. That’s why I’d like an original to work with.

Has anyone used the German Saegenspezi ignition?

Thanks, I’ll look again. Do you know if the SEM fanwheel fits the Bosch flywheel?

Only 1 of 3 Bosch module capacitor replacements worked for me, so don’t be dissapointed.

The SEM GA doesn’t have a separate fan, so it won’t work. The old SEM GE used a 2 part fly & fan wheel, so that fan would work.

I bought a Saegenspezi Bosch CD module last year, to see what they were all about, and it totaled $120 after currency conversion.

CONS
The sub-base was over 80mm, and had to be ground on center to fit. The kill wire was too short & had to be spliced. The base is very thick, so you’ll need two longer hold down bolts, or mill the bolt holes further in. The transistor trigger is Taiwan made, so nothing German was on it.

PROS
However, they correctly relocated the coil for proper 26 degree BTDC base timing, and it’s never overheated after a year of use. They’ve sold 3-400 of them, and I still see the short kill wire...I’m not sure about the base dimensions.

I’d never buy another one, due to the high cost, but instead prefer to use a new SEM GA using the Selettra branded module, or convert back to points if the crank snout has a cam lobe.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

My first try on the capacitor replacement worked for a decent period of time til I had some piston and cylinder problems this year and had to do an overhaul, and it seemed the ignition got fried in the process. Actually I think the damage was from one of the screws coming loose and getting tangled up and mangling part of it so the capacitor fix wouldn't work anymore. So I finally broke down and got the Saegenspezi and it's worked great so far. Really had no problem with the install, didn't bother with the kill wire and got a big kit of different length m3 m4 m5 hex head screws cheap on Ebay as replacements for various missing case screws on my saw and used ones of those that fit. Was going to rebuild my 056 Super as well but I've stolen so many parts of it so far (including the cylinder for my 045 Super overhaul as they're made of unobtainium) that I think I probably should just leave it be as a parts saw for the 045. I think it likely needed a capacitor fix as well. But maybe when I have absolutely nothing better to do at some point I'll try to get the parts I need to put it back together as well. Just hate leaving anything unfixed that can be fixed.

 

[Scrapcan]

setting a watch for this thread.

 

[56napco]

So, low and behold my saw has the SEM type GE ignition. I've read the SEM GA ignition from a TS350 saw will work. Based on others comments the GE flywheel won't work with the GA ignition however. Seems converting to Bosch or the aftermarket module maybe the only option. In the off chance I can locate a SEM GA style flywheel and ignition module- will my current recoil work with a GA flywheel?
Thanks

 

[hotshot]

That’s the worst of all four ignitions, no good replacements for the GE...

If you do go all SEM GA, you’ll just need the longer plastic starter pawl.

Search for my old post “starter experiment” and you can convert the 056 to two balanced dual pawls at the same time you swap the pawls, like the later 066.

Your rotor needs to be the latest dual pocket type, but I bet it is already. Post some pics of your current setup; inside starter, FW, ignition, etc.

There’s GA FWs, pawls, springs on Fleabay right now, but as always overpriced. However, you’ll never have to mess with ignition issues again, lol.

PS - I see that Saegenspezi have dropped their price on the Bosch CDI, so now that & a used Bosch CDI FW would be your cheapest option out.

 

[56napco]

I really appreciate all the help! Looks like I'll need the whole package; rotor, flywheel, ignition, pawls, spring. But if switching to a GA ignition means I can start using this saw again for more than 15 minutes at a time then it will be worth it. Its a great saw, not my everyday one but hate cutting up big Oaks with the 011 when I could be using the 056.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I really appreciate all the help! Looks like I'll need the whole package; rotor, flywheel, ignition, pawls, spring. But if switching to a GA ignition means I can start using this saw again for more than 15 minutes at a time then it will be worth it. Its a great saw, not my everyday one but hate cutting up big Oaks with the 011 when I could be using the 056.

Yeah, mine drove me crazy after I bought it with the "overheat and no restart" issue, was milling giant tropical trees in southern Mexico with it initially. My shop partner finally broke down and bought a new 660 because my saw died so much. But when it worked it was great. Let a chainsaw repair guy down there do numerous "fixes" on it without fixing it, eventually learned about the ignition issue on this forum, but he was unfamiliar with the saw and kept insisting the whole time he didn't think it was the ignition. Put it aside for a few years and then finally tried the capacitor fix and was amazed it worked. They really are great saws when they're working well.

 

[56napco]

Alright- I got all the SEM GA parts installed, got nice blue spark too but can only get the saw to fire once and thats it. Acts like it wants to go but fires once and then nothing, have to keep pulling it over another 4 or 5 times before it fires off again, then repeat. The plug is wet and the muffler gets wet after pulling it over and over and over. Seems like I've got carb issues now, maybe timing? I've read either line up the timing marks, one on the module and one on the crankcase, or the SEM module doesn't require adjustment. I lined up the marks to begin with but with how much fuel is on the plug makes me lean toward carb now. One thing after another.

 

[Woodslasher]

Check the nylon flapper thingy in the carb. My 361 did that and I noticed that I put the gasket on the carb body first, then the flapper when it was supposed to be the flapper then the gasket. After I fixed that, the coil wire wiggled loose without my knowing which led to a long bout of hair pulling thinking that the carb was the issue.

 

[56napco]

I'll check it out, never removed the carb on this saw so not sure why its acting up after only replacing the ignition and flywheel.

 

[56napco]

Gave in and took the saw to the Stihl dealer, who is my neighbor, last week to see if they could figure out why it was flooding so bad. Picked up the saw today- they handed it back and said it had no spark- nothing they could do about it since its old and obsolete. I got it home, pulled the plug, grounded the plug to my shop press with one of my test leads and got spark when I pulled it over. Put it back together and it wouldn't even try to fire. So, I caved and bought a brand new ignition module, 1108 400 0800, online. So now I wait for that to show up and try this again.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Double check the insulation on the kill switch wire all the way from the switch to the coil for deterioration or cracks to see if maybe it's shorting to the case somewhere.

 

[hotshot]

Put it back together and it wouldn't even try to fire. So, I caved and bought a brand new ignition module, 1108 400 0800, online. So now I wait for that to show up and try this again.

Probably should start a new thread of your own, this has nothing to do with the Bosch CDI fix.

I think you wasted your money on a new SEM GA module, those either spark or they’re dead, and the problem is in the carb or with an air leak.

 

[farmer steve]

Gave in and took the saw to the Stihl dealer, who is my neighbor, last week to see if they could figure out why it was flooding so bad. Picked up the saw today- they handed it back and said it had no spark- nothing they could do about it since its old and obsolete. I got it home, pulled the plug, grounded the plug to my shop press with one of my test leads and got spark when I pulled it over. Put it back together and it wouldn't even try to fire. So, I caved and bought a brand new ignition module, 1108 400 0800, online. So now I wait for that to show up and try this again.

Some stuff in these tech notes you might need. The wires may need cut to length and it gives you specs on doing it.

 

[nolids]

I have some great news about the SEM GE flywheel when converting over to the Saegenspezi ignition-- you can still use the GE flywheel and fan by moving two of the four magnets that are inside the SEM flywheel. I found out by using a magnet polarity tester that the north/south magnets sit together and the ones on the opposite side are non-magnetic and only used for balance.

The magnets are held on by glue and screws, and can be removed by a propane torch. You may have to drill the brass screws out. Then it's just a matter of moving the north or south magnet so they sit 180 degrees apart and either keep using 4 magnets or 2 magnets. Timing to 26 degrees BTDC is a matter of testing using a timing light and 12v battery.