suggestions for rigging... false crotch

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That vid is complete B.S., dont listen to anything it says.

That was more like a half timber hitch - at least five tucks should be on a timber hitch, preferably 6 or more. Just not too many. the tucks, or helixes, are supposed to start wider and the get narrower gradually also.

Nonsense. Perhaps someone will quote from Ashley Book Of Knots? I have NEVER put 5 tucks on a timber hitch, and I have never seen one fail, either.

It's not really important how many tucks you put in. It is of paramount importance that the tucks run around to the rear (completely opposite the holding bight) , and that the tucks are held down by the loaded line. Large trunks REQUIRE a long rope to be able reach back around to the opposite side of the trunk. Otherwise, your knot will fail, even with 5 wraps.


If you want to be really, really sure that the knot won't fail, put a stilson hitch on it. This is particularly important near the top of the spar, because it is important to be as close to the cut as possible and to remove as much slack as possible. The Stilson does not stretch out much when the log hits.

Find on this page: http://www.sherrilltree.com/Learning-Center/Knots


Regarding using a plain rope: double it up, put the block/pulley/friction device in the bend. Then treat it like a single rope with a spliced eye. Timber hitch, Stilson, whatever. Doubled rope is stronger than a splice, too.
 
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Col2y, I don't know the diff between a loopie and Whoopie just that it is stated generally Loopies are for up top and Whoopies are for ground apps. What specifically is the difference between the two and their specific application/s ? I see in your post above that you stated you like knotless rigging for speed. I did see a couple of pics of just wrapping the tail in a number of times, I believe it was a cow hitch, but as a newbie I am shocked that this setup holds and doesn't "loosen" up after a few times. Is this the type of rigging I would use to hold the port-a-wrap (either up top or base of tree) ?

loopie
http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Adjustable-Whoopie-Loopie-/std_looslg_420

whoopie
http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Adjustable-Whoopie-Loopie-/std_whoslg_ams_10

they are both fantastic tools
 
The loopie only makes a circular loop of adjustable length. It is generally used to make a lark's head loop around a tree, leaving a loop for attachment to other stuff, often by "lark's head" to tree removal hardware on the other end of the available loop. This arrangement is probably a bit stronger than just the spliced eye on the whoopie sling.

The whoopie sling has a spliced eye on one end, and an adjustable length circular loop on the other end. It is generally used to attach hardware to the splice, and the loop to the tree.

Use either of them in the top or bottom of the tree, according to your need.

I suspect that you were referring to the Timber Hitch. It seems that an awful lot of tree workers don't trust the simple structure and buried twists, so don't think you are alone. Learn how to tie it, then experiment. It is the strongest, fastest knot available for securing a rope to a falling piece of timber. The more it is pulled, the better it holds. Simpler than a bowline and easier to untie, it is less reliable for "coming undone" until it is loaded than the bowline, which is the gold standard for reliable knots.

If you think about it, the whoopie & loopie slings work just like a timber hitch: they surround the loose end of the rope (the bitter end) with squeezing circular pressure applied from the weight of the load. Much like the timber hitch, the adjustable length slings must wrap around to the opposite side of the log to hold properly.
 
The Stillson is what i meant by a Cow +, or anything related. But, Timber is certainly an option, that can take less line, and can be fortified.

i think that the final nip/ hold fast/pinch of the Timber should be at the opposing face, just before half way. On a clock with clockwise turns, that then reverse to counterclockwise for the Turns around self to final nip that would be at 5 o'clock (assuming initiating pull at 12); if that is a convex location. i also think that it is best if you take a Round Turn rather than a simple Turn around the Standing (Tension) Part. The nip is for security, but the Round Turn would give both more security (lessening tension pulling free of nip) and more strength (by fortifying the Standing, rather than just deforming it).

The number of tucks can be such frictional tension reducers too, but the greatest thing is that there would be more than 2, and the position of the final nip (all at convex locations) IMLHO.
 
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Raptor
I would recommend you go to the Bailey's website and order a few books. The Tree Climbers Companion and the Fundamentals of General Tree Work are two real good informative one's.
 
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