Thank you Gypo and KD

[ShoerFast]

Braze them on, clean the muffler 10 times before installing it or it will end up contaminating the engine with filings, flux etc.

Slimy

Not a Husky guy here, but thanks for sharing your love, with the port info!

If I may further say, I'm not familiar with the muf-mod PN's at all, but wouldn't it just be better to weld it with even some good ol, Coa-Thanger welding rod, or some ready straight 6000 series , mild steel?

As it seems anything that can run blue-hot will weaken Bronze.

Kevin

 

[Simonizer]

Slimy

Not a Husky guy here, but thanks for sharing your love, with the port info!

If I may further say, I'm not familiar with the muf-mod PN's at all, but wouldn't it just be better to weld it with even some good ol, Coa-Thanger welding rod, or some ready straight 6000 series , mild steel?

As it seems anything that can run blue-hot will weaken Bronze.

Kevin

I have never seen them come off. Think about the load that is on them, nothing right? It leaves a nice finish if one knows how to braze without over-cooking everything.

 

[Simonizer]

Slimy

Not a Husky guy here, but thanks for sharing your love, with the port info!

If I may further say, I'm not familiar with the muf-mod PN's at all, but wouldn't it just be better to weld it with even some good ol, Coa-Thanger welding rod, or some ready straight 6000 series , mild steel?

As it seems anything that can run blue-hot will weaken Bronze.

Kevin

Kevin, I have tried to avoid calling you ridiculous names. If you address me by Simon, you may just learn something. I am sure you have some knowledge that is useful to the members here too. I would like to drop the pugnacity and get on with technical details and provide positive input. Is that OK?

 

[Gypo Logger]

Here's the muffler that DC brazed on a 372 he built for me.
Don't wish to speak out of turn but I think he has a used 372 he built which he might sell.
John

 

[ShoerFast]

Kevin, I have tried to avoid calling you ridiculous names. If you address me by Simon, you may just learn something. I am sure you have some knowledge that is useful to the members here too. I would like to drop the pugnacity and get on with technical details and provide positive input. Is that OK?

Simon

As I will use this proper pro-noun as you asked nicely!

But understand, I may be at an awkward stage in my life as I seem to like the banter as much as learning, so if you would, please be patent.

Thanks in advance!

Kevin

 

[Freakingstang]

Kevin, I have tried to avoid calling you ridiculous names. If you address me by Simon, you may just learn something. I am sure you have some knowledge that is useful to the members here too. I would like to drop the pugnacity and get on with technical details and provide positive input. Is that OK?

Simon, do you know the total duration or, where in degrees (your posted mm numbers) when the intake and exhaust openings are?

-Steve

 

[Simonizer]

Simon, do you know the total duration or, where in degrees (your posted mm numbers) when the intake and exhaust openings are?

-Steve

Steve, I am telling you how to bake a cake and you are asking me "what color eggs should I use". I have gone into as much specifics as I need to, to provide you with a very strong saw. Ken Duttweiler would not give you every specific dimension on a Buick GN-X quarter-miler. Just trust me. Remember, a caliper has inside, outside and depth measurement capabilities. Do what I told you. I am available at (250) 287-9231 7:00AM-4:00 PM,Tues-Sat, PMT. Cheers.

 

[04ultra]

Simon show us some pictures then we might understand.. When Gypo,Dennis and the other guys explain they show nice pictures so were on the same page.. Showing would prove what you are saying..

 

[046]

Simon's instructions could not be plainer! if you translater into degrees you would need one of these..

much simpler to measure in mm. I also had troubles getting my mind to think in terms of mm VS in. for accuracy still prefer measuring in mils. but for broadly accurate measurement mm works fine.

reason I posted the mitutoyo 6in digital calipers is that's the tool that first enabled me to think in mm. press a button at any time and calipers transpose mils (thousands) to mm. it's my most used measuring tool. mine is dead-on as calibrated by guage blocks.

 

[Simonizer]

Simon show us some pictures then we might understand.. When Gypo,Dennis and the other guys explain they show nice pictures so were on the same page.. Showing would prove what you are saying..

I posted pics 6 months ago, close-ups, special tools, etc. My porting work has a mirror-finish and perfectly symmetrical dimensions. Believe me, I have had screw-ups like everyone else but I document everything and never make more than one change at a time before running on the dyno. Engineering gets you close but the variables of fluid dynamics are still too abstruse to tackle without trial and error as the final judgement.

 

[04ultra]

I posted pics 6 months ago, close-ups, special tools, etc. My porting work has a mirror-finish and perfectly symmetrical dimensions. Believe me, I have had screw-ups like everyone else but I document everything and never make more than one change at a time before running on the dyno. Engineering gets you close but the variables of fluid dynamics are still too abstruse to tackle without trial and error as the final judgement.

Simon what was the name of the thread..I would like to see it and read it..

 

[Simonizer]

Simon's instructions could not be plainer! if you translater into degrees you would need one of these..

much simpler to measure in mm. I also had troubles getting my mind to think in terms of mm VS in. for accuracy still prefer measuring in mils. but for broadly accurate measurement mm works fine.

reason I posted the mitutoyo 6in digital calipers is that's the tool that first enabled me to think in mm. press a button at any time and calipers transpose mils (thousands) to mm. it's my most used measuring tool. mine is dead-on as calibrated by guage blocks.

Funny you say that buddy, I measure in metric but still look at shim-stock and think in thou's. The digital calipers are very nice in that regard as you can toggle back and forth with the touch of a button as you said. As an engineer I have to be conversant in btu's, watts, joules, N.M, Ft.Lbs, psi. KPa, ....on and on. It's fun ha ha.

 

[Simonizer]

Simon what was the name of the thread..I would like to see it and read it..

I can't remember Ultra, ask one of the moderators. It is there somewhere. If you have no luck I will PM you or email the pics.

 

[spacemule]

Hey Simon! What other forums do you frequent?

 

[Dennis Cahoon]

I'll give you a hint, I will let you go from there. The wrist-pin is from an MS660. The piston is from a Jonsered and is machined, (faced) 0.050"-0.375" across the crown.

There you go!....Now put a old mac 125 round muffler on it and you've got other "king of the forest" woodsaw!....Hahahahahaha!...build something that runs fast Simon and impress me...EH!

 

[Freakingstang]

Simon's instructions could not be plainer! if you translater into degrees you would need one of these..

much simpler to measure in mm. I also had troubles getting my mind to think in terms of mm VS in. for accuracy still prefer measuring in mils. but for broadly accurate measurement mm works fine.

reason I posted the mitutoyo 6in digital calipers is that's the tool that first enabled me to think in mm. press a button at any time and calipers transpose mils (thousands) to mm. it's my most used measuring tool. mine is dead-on as calibrated by guage blocks.

Look dood, I understand that. I have one of those, 3 of them actually. Why would you attemp to port a saw or any 2 stroke without one? What I was trying to achieve was if Simon knew the port time for the numbers he gave. The depth gauge I use is in MM. but long before the mm on the port heights come into play, you must determine where you want duration, or where they need to open, and you use that to find where in MM you need to remove, add or take to the Beach.

Besides, the numbers don't mean much with the large squish he has, so once optimum squish is reached, port time changes yet again.

-Steve

 

[Freakingstang]

Steve, I am telling you how to bake a cake and you are asking me "what color eggs should I use". I have gone into as much specifics as I need to, to provide you with a very strong saw. Ken Duttweiler would not give you every specific dimension on a Buick GN-X quarter-miler. Just trust me. Remember, a caliper has inside, outside and depth measurement capabilities. Do what I told you. I am available at (250) 287-9231 7:00AM-4:00 PM,Tues-Sat, PMT. Cheers.

I have already baked and eaten my cake. Your numbers will do me no good as mine is done they way I like it. Do you know the port time for your numbers? Mine (one of them) intake duaraton is in the 160-170 degree range and exhaust between the same range. or if you are into TDC degrees, the exhaust opens bewteen 80-90 ATDC and the Intake opens in the 70-90 BTDC. transfers are in the high 120's ATDC.

Now, I will ask you again, do you know what your mm numbers represent in degrees, or did you get those numbers from someone else. If you got them from someone else, you wouldn't know the degrees......

 

[046]

Look dood, I understand that. I have one of those, 3 of them actually. Why would you attemp to port a saw or any 2 stroke without one? What I was trying to achieve was if Simon knew the port time for the numbers he gave. The depth gauge I use is in MM. but long before the mm on the port heights come into play, you must determine where you want duration, or where they need to open, and you use that to find where in MM you need to remove, add or take to the Beach.

Besides, the numbers don't mean much with the large squish he has, so once optimum squish is reached, port time changes yet again.

-Steve

note this thread started by thanking gypo and KD for posting figures to do an easy mod with.

if I was changing timing around, I'd want to know where I'm at too