The Bachman knot, a much different kind of friction hitch.

[pdqdl]

If you are foot locking on double rope, the prussic should only be used for ascending. If you place your hand above the knot to release the friction, you will hurt yourself.

I don't get it. That doesn't sound like comments from a production climber to me.

I started climbing on a true taut line hitch, just one turn different than a prussic. You certainly won't hurt yourself by putting your hand above the knot, unless you are stupid about it. This conversation isn't going anywhere, you know.

 

[Zale]

Have you ever foot locked on double rope using a prussic? Maybe I'm not explaining it right. If you let go and put weight into the knot, it will set and hold your weight. If you use the knot to descend with your hand above the knot to release tension without a back up figure-8, you can free fall. That's all I'm saying.

 

[pdqdl]

Dumb=keep hanging on.
normal=quit pulling down when you descend faster than you prefer.

I thought that was why the prussic was used; it enables the failed rope climber to come back down if he is not successful at going all the way up. Or perhaps you just rang the bell in a rope climbing competition, and it is time to come down.

I simply don't see where you are going with this dialog. Are you trying to say that climbers should not be using a prussic to go footlocking up a doubled rope 'cause it might drop them?

I have to admit that I have never seen anyone using a figure-8 to descend on a doubled rope. I'm sure it is done, I just don't remember ever seeing it done.

Found one:

 

[Zale]

I'm saying be aware of the risks in each type of climbing set up. That was what I was taught by Ken and Rip from Arbormasters many years ago. Also, they don't let you come down on the prussic at competitions. You are on belay and lowered.

 

[BC WetCoast]

That's what I learned. If you footlock up on a prussick, then put your hand on the knot to descend, you're making a quick trip to the bottom as the knot won't catch.

I've never used a prussick climbing, the only time I used it was working on a roof (storm call) with no tie ins for the climbing line. Because we had to work both sides of the peak, we through a rope over the roof and tied the rope on the ground at both ends. A prussick allowed us to work both sides of the roof.

 

[tree MDS]

When I learning how to footlock on a prussik (doubled rope), the guy I was working for had me come down on one of those heart shaped rescue 8 things a couple times. It worked pretty well. I kept an eye on it though. We always ditched the prussik before descending. That just looks like a waste of effort.

Thank god for the advent of the wraptor. I always hated footlocking. It was a pita even when I was young and in shape. Always hated it. It is quick though, that's for sure.

 

[Zale]

Yeah, I was not fond of foot locking on a prussic. Today, they have so many different gadgets, makes foot locking on a prussic old school.