The BIL Mill Upgrade

[demographic]

Double-ended bar with a second clutch/sprocket assembly at nose end & chainsaw oiler assembly rigged to run off the clutch drum, same as saw's internal oiler? As far as using a coil for power, most run in the 12-15kV range and produce almost no amperage, much like a neon sign transformer. So I don't know how you'd go about making that usable while not killing your spark.

My mistake, when I said Coil, what I should have said was generator coil, not the one on the end of the HT lead. But don't some saws have a heating element in the handles?
Mines got a blanked off area for a switch on the right side,about an inch or so below where the carb screws go through the casing, do those versions run a different generator to give the extra amps?
This is on a 038AV super by the way, I haven't checked my mates 056 AV super to see if its got the same setup yet.

I read about the butterfly shaped heating coil as well thats fitted in the rear handle and the heating element thats fitted to the front handle of the arctic model in my manual but it looks like its an option, no mention of needing a different generator coil that I have read.
The heating element used in the arctic models must be getting power from somewhere and if they have the same generator then there might be a spare wire off it? Not checked that far yet as I haven't taken mine to bits yet (hey, its working, why should I)

 

[BobL]

Double-ended bar with a second clutch/sprocket assembly at nose end & chainsaw oiler assembly rigged to run off the clutch drum, same as saw's internal oiler?

Good idea but too heavy.

Any regular electrical wire running across the powerhead / mill divide including a regular audio jack is very likely to be damaged, I can just feel it in my bones. To protect the wire it will need to be inside a steel sheath like a bike brake cable, then quick disconnect becomes more complicated. If I give up on the quick disconnect and given I'm already using an mechanical Aux trigger, a simpler solution than anything electronic is a mechcanical cable that just pulls off the throttle cable. At least this means the oil will flow only when I use the throttle, so idling pauses, eg warming up/cooling down etc the oil will not flow.

 

[Rockfarmer]

My mistake, when I said Coil, what I should have said was generator coil, not the one on the end of the HT lead. But don't some saws have a heating element in the handles?
Mines got a blanked off area for a switch on the right side,about an inch or so below where the carb screws go through the casing, do those versions run a different generator to give the extra amps?
This is on a 038AV super by the way, I haven't checked my mates 056 AV super to see if its got the same setup yet.

I read about the butterfly shaped heating coil as well thats fitted in the rear handle and the heating element thats fitted to the front handle of the arctic model in my manual but it looks like its an option, no mention of needing a different generator coil that I have read.
The heating element used in the arctic models must be getting power from somewhere and if they have the same generator then there might be a spare wire off it? Not checked that far yet as I haven't taken mine to bits yet (hey, its working, why should I)

Hey demo, I dont know about saws but sleds have 2 coils, one for spark and one for lights/power (both on one stator plate). Interesting :monkey:

 

[demographic]

Good idea but too heavy.

Any regular electrical wire running across the powerhead / mill divide including a regular audio jack is very likely to be damaged, I can just feel it in my bones. To protect the wire it will need to be inside a steel sheath like a bike brake cable, then quick disconnect becomes more complicated. If I give up on the quick disconnect and given I'm already using an mechanical Aux trigger, a simpler solution than anything electronic is a mechcanical cable that just pulls off the throttle cable. At least this means the oil will flow only when I use the throttle, so idling pauses, eg warming up/cooling down etc the oil will not flow.

On several of my two stroke motorbikes (the ones with autolube systems) there was a throttle cable that ran down to a splitter, one cable coming out of the splitter went to the carb and the other went to the oil pump.

That way the bike had more two stroke oil pump when the throttle was opened and less when it was shut off.

Might be another way of doing it.

This is the splitter part that the cables fit into...

 

[demographic]

Hey demo, I dont know about saws but sleds have 2 coils, one for spark and one for lights/power (both on one stator plate). Interesting :monkey:

Hi, my old KX500 has an ignition coil fitted to the stator backplate as standard, I have fitted an aftermarket lighting coil as well.

I have a bridge rectifier that converts the AC from that coil to DC which goes to a battery. That way my lights don't go dim when the revs drop*





















*Well, I say that but the aftermarket lighting coil is pretty crap and doesn't charge up anything like as well as I want, its something I am going to have to throw some money at but at the moment I don't have money to throw at it so its got to wait.

 

[BobL]

On several of my two stroke motorbikes (the ones with autolube systems) there was a throttle cable that ran down to a splitter, one cable coming out of the splitter went to the carb and the other went to the oil pump. ]

yep - I've seen this and this was exactly what I was thinking.

 

[demographic]

yep - I've seen this and this was exactly what I was thinking.

Some also have two throttle cables coming out of the twistgrip end and then going onto a wheel that opens the butterflies on the carbs.
One opens the throttle butterflies and the other shuts them, the idea being that if the cable that opens them snaps, you don't end up with the throttle wide open and unable to shut it off.

Problems with those is that they boith move in opposite directions to each other, it might be possible to sort that out at the twistgrip end but I can't say I have ever taken one apart yet to see if theres enough space to do it.
The one bike I have had with the two cable setup (GSXR750 Slingshot)has never needed a replacement throttle cable in the time I've had it.

 

[JohnMcf]

AL section

This has probably already been answered, but what is the name/type of AL section used for the mill?

Actually is there a picture of terms used to refer to the common parts of a CSM

Regards
John

 

[BobL]

This has probably already been answered, but what is the name/type of AL section used for the mill?

Unistrut.

The one I use is Highway Road sign unistrut - Capral profile number 984019


Actually is there a picture of terms used to refer to the common parts of a CSM [/QUOTE]
Will Mallof's book has some good pics - Here's one published in the interest of research.

In the book he goes on to show how he modifies it to make it a better mill.

Some variations on the labels I use.
Nose end = outboard end
Thrust skid end = inboard end
Sliding guide rails = mill rails
Riser post = mill upright or verticals

 

[BobL]

Its an old thread from 2008 when I upgraded my BIL mill to 60" bar and I have finally been able to re-insert the pics back into this thread.
Hopefully someone may find it useful