The Homie XL-101 types: A Tinkers Guide.

[67L36Driver]

My personal observations after building four runners out of seven parts saws.

First thing to watch out for is the very early glued on fuel tank and oil tank covers.

View attachment 205985

Glued on fuel tank on the left. Notice the lack of cap screw bosses next to the bucking spike rib like the one on the right.

They will leak sooner or later, all it takes is yanking on a pinched bar.

Next item of interest is a change from three screws to five screws on the "magneto backplate".

View attachment 205987

View attachment 206009

As one can see if a screw gets loose on the '3 screw' it can cause the backplate to wallow out the bore in the crankcase. A problem Homelite solved with two extra screws and, from what I have found, some thread locker.

Some time or another Homelite increased the cylinder spigot diameter from 1 15/16" diameter to 2" diameter. Possibly to accomodate the increase in bore for the 57cc version.

View attachment 205989

You can use the small spigot cylinder in the larger pilot bore crankcase. Not the best practice, but it works.

Continued in next panel.

 

[rms61moparman]

But!


Where can I get a clutch removal tool???


Mike

 

[67L36Driver]

Another observation while we are on cylinders is the change in the exhause port.

View attachment 205992

57cc cylinder on the left with the oval port. 54cc cylinder has the center divide and the total area looks larger.

The 57 cc cylinder also got a larger combustion chamber.

View attachment 205996

When you add auto oiling to your basic 101 you gain width and weight. 11/16" in width for the oil pump. and 15#-15oz vrs. 14#-7oz R.T.R. w/16" bar and chain. (See tank end pic in first panel)

With the oiler change, cranks don't swap. Oiler crank is longer. On top of that you got to watch the connecting rod change. Early have 31 rollers of .067" dia and oilers (57cc) have 25 rollers of .077" dia.. Crankpin dia. went up some .010" or so.

Handle/carb. box comparison.
View attachment 206002

Note the bustle on the auto oiler version. The oil caps don't interchange b.t.w..

More in next panel

 

[67L36Driver]

But!


Where can I get a clutch removal tool???


Mike

Put a 1/2" wood dowel in the exhaust port and use a medium freakin hammer and a blunt punch. The threads are left hand. I tap the holes in the clutch spider to #12-24 and screw in a fillester head machine screw to pound against.

 

[67L36Driver]

The biggest claim to fame is the one piece crankcase/fuel tank.

View attachment 206018

I sectioned this one to salvage the crank and bearings. It lost a rod bolt I forgot to tighten securely. Magnesium cuts easy with a hack saw. I had glued in the three screw magneto backplate with JB Weld.

The crankcase tends to heat the fuel much more than an XL-12.

Straight accross, the XL-101 beats the XL-12 in width and weight.

View attachment 206026

 

[67L36Driver]

If you want to use the 101 handle/carb. box on an auto oiler version you must have the tapped hole for the oil line feed to the pump.

I'll have to shoot that picture in the daylight tomorrow.

So, more to come.

 

[67L36Driver]

Handle off an auto-oiler type has a tapped hole for the outlet to the pump. Some non oilers have a boss and some have a tapped hole with plug.

View attachment 206153

 

[67L36Driver]

One last item of interest is the fuel tank vent valve on early production XL-101's. It is a duplicate of the Roper setup. They interchange.

View attachment 206632

The fuel cap is not vented. It will give you a problem on the later models.

 

[67L36Driver]

End result of this adventure in evilbay carcass buying.

View attachment 206883

View attachment 206884

Also thanks goes to Little Possum, ChainsawmanXX and Struggle for their parts saws.

 

[Mr.Jim]

Hi I'm new here and know this is an old thread but have come across a Homelite XL 101 which I'm not sure if its the first version with glued tanks or the later version that the tanks are screwed on.
All the images that show how to tell the glued from screwed are gone so i will try and post pictures of my XL 101 and maybe someone can help . I'm thinking i may have the later screwed version but not sure. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[67L36Driver]

Yup, later version, screwed on fuel tank cover.

Now check if it has the three screw or five screw ‘magneto backplate’. Five is much preferable.[emoji106]

Damn, eight years, time do fly.

 

[Mr.Jim]

Thanks for the quick response and help.
How do i remove the flywheel to look at mag. backplate ? I see no nut!!??
The oiltank cover looks glued no screws?

 

[Mr.Jim]

 

[67L36Driver]

Really? It has bosses for the screws. [emoji848]

I see the flywheel nut front and center between the two starter dogs. [emoji849]

RH threads BTW.

Get you a steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller and some 2 1/2” long #12-24 round had screws to remove flywheel.

Your sig is very, very close to my dear friend @Mo. Jim.

Where in Mo are you?

 

[67L36Driver]

Your oil tank cover is glued. Strange.

 

[Mr.Jim]

I'm in the Kansas City area. If you zoom in on what should be the nut i would think ...its round ,no flats on it !!

 

[pioneerguy600]

I'm in the Kansas City area. If you zoom in on what should be the nut i would think ...its round ,no flats on it !!

It was a hex nut but now rounded off, it must still be removed to pull the flywheel. A welder is a very handy tool for this line of work, my MIG welder has saved my bacon hundreds of times by now. Many that don`t have a welder grind away at the nuts with a Dremel and cutoff wheels.

 

[Mr.Jim]

Mig welder would be nice. I do have a dremel with cut-off wheels. First instinct was small vise-grips. A small nut splitter might work after you mentioned the dremel. Thanks for your suggestions and help. I can't believe how rounded this nut is,i see nothing left that resembles a nut with flats!

 

[Mr.Jim]

Did Homelite have a way to lock the crank to help remove the flywheel nut and or the clutch?

 

[pioneerguy600]

If there is room to get a splitter on it then by all means, splitting the nut is one sure way of removing it. I have been able to remove many nuts in that shape using a sharp nape chisel and tapping it off with a hammer. Start the chisel close to 90 degrees to the crank center and once a pocket is formed move the chisel over to 30 degrees and tap away, may take some heavier blows to get it started but I am certain it could be backed off that way.I took 3 broken off head bolts out of my 1923 Fordson tractor that way, many other nuts n bolts on larger industrial engines.