The Kart Engine Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
THIS THREAD IS OVER DUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hats off CPR!! (all good reading!!)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I made a few phone calls this week and managed to get to see the pair of Mc 10's, a few more phone calls and they came home with me.

The Mc 10 has a 2.125" bore like a lot of saws, and uses the same 55123 rings (thick rings) as many of the 80 and 87 cc saws. It is interesting as it has the "external" breaker points like the D-44 and 1-70 family saws.

Dusty from setting on the shelf for a while, but I think they will clean up nicely. Pistons both look good through the exhaust side, could be some fun.

173011d1298168278-dscn3068-jpg


173010d1298168275-dscn3069-jpg


173008d1298168269-dscn3070-jpg


173009d1298168272-dscn3071-jpg


Mark
 
Last edited:
Way to go Mark! When you get a chance, could you post a pic of the stuffer plate on those from the external side, not the inside. Also, are the cranks machined for keyways on the taper or no?
 
Last edited:
I made a few phone calls this week and managed to get to see the pair of Mc 10's, a few more phone calls and they came home with me.

The Mc 10 has a 2.125" bore like a lot of saws, and uses the same 55123 rings (thick rings) as many of the 80 and 87 cc saws. It is interesting as it has the "external" breaker points like the D-44 and 1-70 family saws.

Dusty from setting on the shelf for a while, but I think they will clean up nicely. Pistons both look good through the exhaust side, could be some fun.

Mark

Nice scores Mark! Do spy a certain McCulloch 77 hiding under a rag in a few of those pics? Can't keep 120cc of McCulloch gear drive muscle under wraps for too long...:laugh:
 
That is a 77 hiding under the terry towels Aaron. What was the red sealer you used?

Charles, I will pull the sprockets and see what lurks underneath. I think they are tapered with a key way, the PTO end of the Mc 40 is definitely tapered with a key way (and badly worn). The IPL definitely shows a tapered shaft with a key way.

I will have to dismount one and get a photo from the end.

Brian, I hope to get one of the Mc 10's running and into a D-44 or 1-70 chassis. Next step will be to find one of the handy guys and see about building a pipe for it.

Mark
 
Thanks, Mark. Curious what you find. I have a service bulletin stating the importance of the key and keeper nut in retaining the clutch, yet this 101b I have has no scallop for a key in it. It was built for a fluid clutch in a kart, so that may play a factor. So much to learn... Not sure at this point if I should seek to have one machined into the crank or not worry about it.
 
Brian, I hope to get one of the Mc 10's running and into a D-44 or 1-70 chassis. Next step will be to find one of the handy guys and see about building a pipe for it.

Mark

Looking forward to seeing that!!! I have half an eye open for a Mc10, if I find one before I find the piston I might throw that in the S44a. Cant wait to see what you come up with!!
 
First off, I don't know anything about Macs let alone kart engines but I was talking to my neighbor awhile back about racing. He and some other neighbors used to be pretty heavy into karting back in the day. He said they ran 101 A's and 101 B's. So i guess my question is whats the differance between the A's and the B's? Thanks
 
First off, I don't know anything about Macs let alone kart engines but I was talking to my neighbor awhile back about racing. He and some other neighbors used to be pretty heavy into karting back in the day. He said they ran 101 A's and 101 B's. So i guess my question is whats the differance between the A's and the B's? Thanks

Try McCulloch Kart Engines ..................... ron
 
That is a 77 hiding under the terry towels Aaron. What was the red sealer you used?

Charles, I will pull the sprockets and see what lurks underneath. I think they are tapered with a key way, the PTO end of the Mc 40 is definitely tapered with a key way (and badly worn). The IPL definitely shows a tapered shaft with a key way.

I will have to dismount one and get a photo from the end.

Brian, I hope to get one of the Mc 10's running and into a D-44 or 1-70 chassis. Next step will be to find one of the handy guys and see about building a pipe for it.

Mark

I used the Permatex Hi-Tack stuff that comes in the can with the brush built into the lid. Lee H recomended it. That stuff never really hardens completely. Sort of like rubber cement when it dries. You should be able to get it off pretty easily. Sorry I made a bit of a mess of it. Was in too much of a hurry when I buttoned it back up.

Did you get that NOS carb metering diaphragm that I sent you the link for? The seller was somebody who frequents another saw forum. Somebody got it..........or the listing just ran out and they still have it for sale. I'll PM you their info if you still need one. For all I know, you have a stack of the dang things already...:D
 
Thanks, Mark. Curious what you find. I have a service bulletin stating the importance of the key and keeper nut in retaining the clutch, yet this 101b I have has no scallop for a key in it. It was built for a fluid clutch in a kart, so that may play a factor. So much to learn... Not sure at this point if I should seek to have one machined into the crank or not worry about it.

I currently have five running 101's, various models, all in saw frames none of which run a key. Some have the keyway some don't, just make sure the taper is clean and smooth and get them as tight as possible, i use an 18inch breaker bar.
 
CPR, see the photo for the Mc 10 stuffer from outside. Notice there is even the hole for the manual oiler on a saw.

This block was originally stamped 1-70 over 1-80, both X'd out and the Mc 10 stamp on the boss where the lubrimac oiler would have been.

Both have a keyed and tapered shaft but it appears to me to be longer than a saw crank shaft would be from just looking at it. Maybe tonight I will find a clutch to put on there and see how it looks.

173276d1298302274-dscn3076-jpg


Mark
 
Thank you Mark. Crank looks about right for length.


I wanted to see what that stuffer looked like. That one could be drilled for an auto oiler and used in a saw. The one on my 101 won't work because the oiler tank won't mate to it due to the gusseting cast into it. Look at the pics above to see what I mean.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top