ckelp
just being myself
stupid question, how are going to bolt it down?
The next 066 top end
- Thread starter mtngun
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mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
You mean with part of the cylinder extending below the base of the jug ?
I guess you'd have to make a spacer for entire base, or else 4 small spacers for each bolt -- and they'd have to be precision spacers to keep the jug square with the fixture.
I'd probably go with the 4 small spacers, since they could be used on many different jugs. Make 'em on the lathe, then trim them all at once on a surface grinder or a mill to make sure they're exactly the same height.
For today I scrounged some 6mm carriage bolts and nuts out of my junk collection, will get fancier bolts eventually.ckelp said:
To bolt pistons to fixture, will make a 12mm wrist pin with threaded hole for all-thread that passes through fixture.
parrisw
Tree Freak
Good idea, too bad I don't have a surface grinder or a mill.
ckelp
just being myself
some kids have all the toys
a while back i almost scored a 24" logon lathe untill the guy that was about to load it put one of the forks on the forklift into the gear box on the lathe:msp_mad:
a while back i almost scored a 24" logon lathe untill the guy that was about to load it put one of the forks on the forklift into the gear box on the lathe:msp_mad:
czar800
ArboristSite Guru
Good Info. and Great reading 
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
You have sandpaper, a ruler, and fingers don't you Will?
I don't understand anything about port timings but the graphs are pretty
parrisw
Tree Freak
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
What you talking about? Any highs and lows from the finger and ruler method will be filled in by the gasket sealant.
Some of us come up with a solution to a problem Will, and some of us ARE the problem...
In case you're confused I came up with the solution
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
You have sandpaper, a ruler, and fingers don't you Will?
I don't understand anything about port timings but the graphs are pretty
What you talking about? Any highs and lows from the finger and ruler method will be filled in by the gasket sealant.
Some of us come up with a solution to a problem Will, and some of us ARE the problem...
In case you're confused I came up with the solution
4 spacers will be difficult and lead to a setup with little rigidity. Better to machine a spacer ring slightly thicker than the depth of the skirt bosses. The "ruler" method doesn't work so well when you are trying to keep bore/lathe centerline coaxiality within .001".
.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
chunksofwood
New Member
tooling
I've worked on vw beatle engines for years. You can buy longer jugs, for one can run into comp ratio problems with big ones. For my lathe I made a set of jaws internal and long for trimming to length. No base plate simply clamp the jug internally, indicators tell me that its always less than a thou out of paralell or round, then I cut. A chuck with a criss cross pattern to the feet of the jaws or what ever numbered bolt them on, indicate if you feel like it, then cut. My jaws are aluminum and if they are ever out I just cut them.
Enjoy
I've worked on vw beatle engines for years. You can buy longer jugs, for one can run into comp ratio problems with big ones. For my lathe I made a set of jaws internal and long for trimming to length. No base plate simply clamp the jug internally, indicators tell me that its always less than a thou out of paralell or round, then I cut. A chuck with a criss cross pattern to the feet of the jaws or what ever numbered bolt them on, indicate if you feel like it, then cut. My jaws are aluminum and if they are ever out I just cut them.
Enjoy
parrisw
Tree Freak
What you talking about? Any highs and lows from the finger and ruler method will be filled in by the gasket sealant.
Some of us come up with a solution to a problem Will, and some of us ARE the problem...
In case you're confused I came up with the solution
hmmmm :msp_confused:
Thanks ya, I had the same concerns about using 4 spacers, the one ring would be easier to do anyway on a lathe.
cowboyvet
ArboristSite Operative
Love the graphs. Looks a lot cheaper than guessing wrong a couple times. What is the name of the program your using and does it already have saw info in it or are programing all the info in for each particular jug?
mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
The software is called MOTA. It was designed with bikes and carts in mind and no, it does not come configured for chainsaws. The user has to measure the saw very carefully and plug the data into MOTA. MOTA has an option for box mufflers, but the instructions are clear as mud. :msp_mad:
Still, it beats guess porting.
Still, it beats guess porting.
mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
Using a free Max Squish Velocity calculator to check my head design.
TorqSoft - Squish Velocity - Calculation Tool
Dome diameter, squish band width, and shape are going to be about the same as stock, but I'm running the calcs anyway, just for the learning experience. :msp_smile:
Some things I've learned so far:
-- it's harder to get high compression on a chainsaw, than a bike/cart engine, because chainsaws have a higher bore/stroke ratio.
-- squish bands are wider on chainsaws, perhaps for the same reason
-- and hence squish velocities are higher.
TorqSoft - Squish Velocity - Calculation Tool
Dome diameter, squish band width, and shape are going to be about the same as stock, but I'm running the calcs anyway, just for the learning experience. :msp_smile:
Some things I've learned so far:
-- it's harder to get high compression on a chainsaw, than a bike/cart engine, because chainsaws have a higher bore/stroke ratio.
-- squish bands are wider on chainsaws, perhaps for the same reason
-- and hence squish velocities are higher.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
parrisw
Tree Freak
Zombiechopper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Are you going to position the plug straight up or angled? Just curious if that has any effect?
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
cowboyvet
ArboristSite Operative
In my efforts to learn and understand the intricacies of the 2 stroke, you are now throwing a new one at me. I understand how squish works with compression and the effects of squish for burn times and detonation purposes. How does velocity come into play? The faster the charge is slammed towards the spark the better?
If you run a slanted plug off one side would you want a varied velocity with the higher velocity coming from the side farther from the plug?
Does the angle of your transfers come into play with velocity effects based on fuel concentration could be higher on one side?
I suppose a higher velocity would also translate to a faster spike of compression at the end of the stroke which would also translate to a sharper jolt to the crank and rod...
If you run a slanted plug off one side would you want a varied velocity with the higher velocity coming from the side farther from the plug?
Does the angle of your transfers come into play with velocity effects based on fuel concentration could be higher on one side?
I suppose a higher velocity would also translate to a faster spike of compression at the end of the stroke which would also translate to a sharper jolt to the crank and rod...
