That Tillman is Old Skool!
The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!
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There's a Skagit BU-50 I've been eyeballing here on C's list for a year or two now, 20k with a gas upper... mounted on a freightliner with a 50' christy tower...
If it didn't have that gas motor I probably would have talked myself into buying it by now. From what I gather its not real far from home either, though the ad keeps traveling around the area.
And down Ore-e-gone way a little eco logger mounted on a Timber Jack... Which would be skookum...
Localy theres an ancient madil tube with skagit drums mounted on an even more ancient Mack... open cab, but with air brakes, has the usual tin roofing looks like a slightly more modern old donkey engine
There is also a BU-90 with a 110 skagit tube, been used as a dredge... they want a lot more for it though... admittedly its in really good shape and fairly new for a Skagit.
Just a guess on the whole big yarder on small timber thing, partly I think they are not real good on fuel, second even with lighter rigging they are still geared to pull big wood and would probably just snap the smaller line like thread. And finally the big yarders are getting old, a guy can only spend so much time putting something back together before deciding something newer would be a good Idea, and since there really isn't much of a need for large yarders, a smaller (read Cheaper) will do just fine.
Meanwhile my experience on a yarder consists of a lot of reading, and my goofy gyppo yarder thats been sitting for 2 years... Though I keep plotting a repower and fabbing a small tower and and... **** it the skidder is making money, Though that stupid thing did allow me to buy the skidder... (hell it worked better then the tractor...)
If it didn't have that gas motor I probably would have talked myself into buying it by now. From what I gather its not real far from home either, though the ad keeps traveling around the area.
And down Ore-e-gone way a little eco logger mounted on a Timber Jack... Which would be skookum...
Localy theres an ancient madil tube with skagit drums mounted on an even more ancient Mack... open cab, but with air brakes, has the usual tin roofing looks like a slightly more modern old donkey engine
There is also a BU-90 with a 110 skagit tube, been used as a dredge... they want a lot more for it though... admittedly its in really good shape and fairly new for a Skagit.
Just a guess on the whole big yarder on small timber thing, partly I think they are not real good on fuel, second even with lighter rigging they are still geared to pull big wood and would probably just snap the smaller line like thread. And finally the big yarders are getting old, a guy can only spend so much time putting something back together before deciding something newer would be a good Idea, and since there really isn't much of a need for large yarders, a smaller (read Cheaper) will do just fine.
Meanwhile my experience on a yarder consists of a lot of reading, and my goofy gyppo yarder thats been sitting for 2 years... Though I keep plotting a repower and fabbing a small tower and and... **** it the skidder is making money, Though that stupid thing did allow me to buy the skidder... (hell it worked better then the tractor...)
Bigger turn means more chokers, meaning more brush apes, or more time setting chokers, coupled with more breakage on the way up the hill. That and hooking multiple stems from one little patch is a little like a game of pick up sticks where you try to grab half the pile... becomes problematic... that and the whole tail hold issue, big stumps equal solid tail holds, small stumps equal iffy tail holds, especially if you plan on having a tail spar where the line is hung up in a tree down the hill, to gain more height, unfortunately it also puts more leverage on the roots... meaning needing to find yet more tail holds for the the back spar guys...
Think of it as hooking 3-4 extra logs behind yer skidder, while possible not always efficient. (Seen a bunch of you tube vids of guys trying to drag half the forest in one go... usually just end up breaking something)
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
i was just thinkin 3 small sticks =1 big stick............i know nuthin about high lines lol. carry on.
The stump thing is a biggie. The old growth sized stumps are rotting away. There aren't any replacement stumps of that size.
That is one thing plannners don't always think of--most yarders need to tie at least a couple of guylines to stumps.
That is one thing plannners don't always think of--most yarders need to tie at least a couple of guylines to stumps.
Spotted Owl
ArboristSite Guru
I've seen them monsters set up in second growth. You better have stock in the wire rope company. The twisters it takes to make sure everything will hold looks like a spiderweb. Best bet if you can is set your tail hold on the back side of rise, let the skyline ride right on the dirt. The ground will take most of the load, easing the tailhold sometimes a huge amount. You can also guy to tall standing second growth stumps and twist the heck out of those also. But you have to stand back and study quite a bit and figure your angles, you'll need down angle to hold it in the ground along with your normal hold back. The few time I saw this there were two hooks. One did nothing but figure road changes and get things ready. That yarder doesn't move once it's set, when you would normally break down and turn a smaller rig, the big guys stay put and you work around it. If you're gonna turn a huge amount of wood you need to let the fallers know ahead of time. They can really help out if they know what's gonna be happening. We'd lay sacrifice trees across and drop good wood over them, held the butt's up and was easier for the guys to choke big turns.
Owl
Owl
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
lol, thats a trick even i use with cable skidders.......some times i use the face chunk if its big.
"Advanced", my eye! That's "next level"!
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
so, a while back y'all were talking about uprooting while falling a stick.......y'all jinxed me lol. poplar over 36 leaning hard. i could see it had started to throw a bit but i seen that plenty. while making the face i felt the root wad under foot moving.
i guess it ratled me a little..........i decided instead of gutting the heart like i normaly do on a leaner............yea, i tried to gol it. almost chaired it. dam if you don't need a fast saw to make it out the back on a stick that size..........and of course that root wad wad was teeterin under foot lol. it will still grade about 25' with almost no taper so its a good log, but i ain't tryin that no more. its just not for me.
i guess it ratled me a little..........i decided instead of gutting the heart like i normaly do on a leaner............yea, i tried to gol it. almost chaired it. dam if you don't need a fast saw to make it out the back on a stick that size..........and of course that root wad wad was teeterin under foot lol. it will still grade about 25' with almost no taper so its a good log, but i ain't tryin that no more. its just not for me.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
GOL is saddened by your story, & promises to do better in the future.
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
pft lol
I haven't sipped any coffee yet, so may have misunderstood.
On a GOL style bore cut, you don't make it out on the back. You pull out the saw while a strip on the back is still holding the tree. Then, running the saw normally, you cut off the strip from the outside and the tree falls.
But, I'm not a faller
and I don't cut many trees of any size down, but I did go to a GOL session out of curiosity. And, no, we weren't told that was the only way to cut, and no, I still felt like I didn't know how fall after the class. But I don't have to.
But, I'm not a faller
I don't think that class really indoctrinated (brainwashed) you into GOL methods. You don't wear the GOL hat, you don't have the GOL tattoo, and you don't start every third sentence with "That can't be right, because in GOL they told us to do it a different way".
Besides, I've seen you cut and except for one tree in California (but we won't talk about that and I won't show the pictures of it if I'm supplied with enough cookies and huckleberry pie) you've done pretty good.
I seem to specialize in trees that are sattin back. I won't mention the nails either.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
If they had named GOL anything else, like the Swede Method, we wouldn't make near so much fun of it.
SliverPicker
ArboristSite Guru
I still get a kick out of Northy's term "Swedish Stump Dance" .
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
yes, i was gonna pull out and go in on the back strap..........it was starting to crack and open so i gunned it in an attempt to save the log. it was cracking well behind the hinge, i never have seen a tree do that and poplar isn't splitty. it was leaning over 30*
its still a good log, i just wish i had done my usual thing on it.
its still a good log, i just wish i had done my usual thing on it.
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
Cracking behind the hinge with the back strap still there sounds like GTF outta there fast territory. Nice work as always
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
It happens I know alder can be that way for sure especially in the big heavy ones.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BL maples can do it too... Seems like all the ones I've cut recently have been cracked through while standing or shortly after hitting the ground.
