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The workshop manual told me what the initial settings for the H and L were, but didn't mention a standard setting for the LA (it's actually "T" on my Husky).

Ian

There is no initial setting for LA - just turn it in until it just pushes the throttle plate open a tad or, if you can't see it, turn it way in, start, then turn it out until it just idles, than L, then LA again ..etc,,
 
I tried explaining how it's done here. http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=639145&postcount=41

it's important to adjust L screw with throttle plate (butterfly) opened small as possible.

if you can see the throttle plate, it's easier tell where you are at. start at 1/2 turn open. if you can't see throttle plate. back off screw until no resistance is felt. then carefully screw in 1/2 turn past point resistance starts.

start engine, run engine 1-2 minutes to warm up, then turn screw to open throttle plate, just enough to keep running.

then find peak for L screw. then test for throttle response. slightly richen 1/4 turn or lean as per lake's instructions.
 
carb tuning

I'm working on one today and here is where to find a few secrets about walbro carbs that work for saws also.
http://tech.flygsw.org then click on engines and stuff then click on gas carb tech then click on how to tune a walbro. Now when you're at a GTG and the guy tells you his diaphram is blue because it's off a Makitia, you'll know he's pulling your leg and his time in the cut is going to leave you eating sawdust.
 
Southwest Aero Modelers said:
Go to full throttle. Adjust the top end needle for peak RPM. Leave it wide open for about a minute to see if it changes any.

Ouch.. I don't think I'm going to lean my saw out for peak RPM and then hold it WOT for a full minute.

You gotta keep in mind that these airplane engines have props on them, so they are under constant load the whole time they are running. It's akin to tuning a chainsaw in the cut but with a more consistent load applied. If you could put a load on a saw like that it would work well I expect.

Anyone want to hook their saw up to a ceiling fan and let us know how it turns out? :)

Ian
 
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OK, so this is dragging up an old thread - bash me if you think I need it...

It's important to remember that the WOT methods are only a crude approximation of correct mixture. It will overstate the mixture on short bars (too rich - to keep RPM down) and understate (too lean) on very long bars (leaning out to get to max rpm). There is only one correct H speed mixture for a given set of environmental conditions.
Given the last statement - That'd mean going on the WOT tuning, you'd need to chose a medium saized bar for the saw, then do your tuning, then leave it at that whatever the bar size?

Assuming you're not going to WOT it out of the wood with a short bar the whole time... But will it also be gutless with a longer bar? Will it be running too lean tuning with a very long bar?
 
I have the sts 5000 tach from baileys. At 13k my 660 is burbling alot. with
25" bar. Does that mean it's safe to take it higher. Same with my 441 at
13.5k. I am running 100 LL av gas, does that have anything to do with it. 441 seems ALOT louder than the 660. Both have stock mufflers until I get my dp for the 660 tomorrow.
 
No, Lakeside Andy is retired from AS at 25,000 posts. He was burned out.

Gypo was banned at his own request. Also burned out.
 

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